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Suggestions for oil cooler placement?

1.9K views 39 replies 17 participants last post by  davegt27  
#1 · (Edited)
So I'm disappointed with my 'upgraded' marine oil cooler (which replaced the stock oil cooler), and I need something better. In short- I was surprised to see my oil temps go over 280 degrees during a track day last October.

I'd like to switch to a conventional air->oil heat exchanger, but I'm at a loss where I should mount it in the engine bay. It must be placed where it can receive sufficient air flow yet be protected from damage, and as a bonus, minimize hose length.

Any ideas out there? Has anyone done this?
 
#4 ·
I was thinking too that the oil cooler is seeing hot engine coolant going to the radiator, not the cold return line. I've thought about moving the oil cooler - not sure if there's a good placement for that.
 
#5 ·
I have no suggestions, but curious about a couple of things;

Where are you measing the oil temp and with which gauge?
What was your coolant temp when oil hit 280?
Do you have comparable numbers from the stock cooler?
What is more important, cold air intake or sane oil temperatures? :angel:

And what is this about 2 new kids? It's up to 3 now?

-Rob
 
#6 ·
brentpicasso said:
I was thinking too that the oil cooler is seeing hot engine coolant going to the radiator, not the cold return line. I've thought about moving the oil cooler - not sure if there's a good placement for that.
Can't say about the MR2 but in some regions of the country, the manufacturers fit "oil heaters" to help warm up the oil quicker to prevent engine damage in extreme cold climates.

They just switch the heat exchanger to the other tube for "hotter" climates.

Steve
 
#7 · (Edited)
Do you run good oil? I wouldn't worry about oil temps anywhere under 300 degrees, unless it was causing a low pressure issue. Synthetics can handle that fine. To help out on the cooler placement though, I would put it on the firewall, fins pointing up and make a little shroud to the bottom of the car with a small lip to direct the air up. Also are you still just cooling the bypass oil? You could replumb your water to oil unit to cool all of the oil.
 
#8 ·
robf said:
I have no suggestions, but curious about a couple of things;

Where are you measing the oil temp and with which gauge?
What was your coolant temp when oil hit 280?
Do you have comparable numbers from the stock cooler?
What is more important, cold air intake or sane oil temperatures? :angel:

And what is this about 2 new kids? It's up to 3 now?

-Rob
Hi Rob,

1. I'm measuring right in the middle of the oil pan. I'm using a ISSPRO oil temp gauge
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?Type=Elec_Engine_Temp&Series=EVA_R&PN=R5659R-O

You can actually see the gauge creep up in the in-car video. It's the left gauge pod:
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/450226

Larger version here:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/450226/irdc_trackday_oct28_0002.avi

2. Dunno. Using the stock gauge- it was rock solid, as usual.

3. No.

4. I will have my cake and eat it too. :D

5. No, just two kids. But they're a handful!!!! :)


JavaJoe:

Yep, I'm running full synthetic. Not sure if it's mobil1 or Syntech- one of the two.

Since it pegged my gauge I was a bit worried about it rising uncontrollably. Funny, if I didn't have the gauge I would've been blissfully ignorant. :)
 
#11 ·
NOTE!!! Oil companies around the world have downgraded the overall quality and lubricity of their oils recently. If you drive hard and use conventional oils, I suggest doing research on this subject. Oils are now more prone to gumming, sludging and clogging. I have seen it first hand and have read about it. My girlfriend's Porsche was recently the victim of poor oil quality from a major and well sought after company. Full real synthetics are the way to go if you do any real performance driving. Just consider this while we're on the subject of oil stuff.

That is all...
 
#13 ·
brentpicasso said:
4. I will have my cake and eat it too. :D
You will be eating your cake alright, and your motor will eat a bearing :D I think side vent is your best bet. It is easy to find a place for a CAI but hard to find a place for an oil cooler.

How about plumbing to the front?

I think 280+ is asking for trouble. The highest I have seen on my WRX swap is 225 and that is taken in the block. That was after back to back rally-cross laps, so maybe not as stressful as track duty (but less cooling air flow at the slower speeds).

Yes the trouble with gauges is that they might tell you things you don't want to know.

-Rob
 
#15 ·
Plumbing to the front... You can't mean in-line with the oil pump, right? The only other thing is taking oil from the pan from one side, send to the front and back to the other side of the pan- like an auxiliary system.

Wait- I'll put slick50 in it and ditch the oil! :D
 
#18 ·
if you go to a air cooled oil cooler core you could always mount it level with the floor pan (well just above) infront of the gearbox. or even at a angle infront of the gearbox. build a small aluminium scoop doobie to direct air through it.

or like kbox said, the auto has the trans cooler on the return coolant line.
 
#21 ·
Ok.

This looks suspiciously like my coolant "overheating problem".
I had no problem at all.

I just had the wrong temperature sending unit for the gauge.

Doublecheck with the manufacturer of the gauge as to what sort of marking(s) your temp sensor should have on it. If it's not the one that they say it should be, odds are good that it is giving you falsely high readings.
 
#22 ·
#24 ·
CuTeMR2GuY said:
i tried to PM you but your inbox is full but yes i would take the offer, let me know thanks
If this was directed at me, I have no idea what you're talking about.
 
#25 ·
Pyrgnome said:
Ok.

This looks suspiciously like my coolant "overheating problem".
I had no problem at all.

I just had the wrong temperature sending unit for the gauge.

Doublecheck with the manufacturer of the gauge as to what sort of marking(s) your temp sensor should have on it. If it's not the one that they say it should be, odds are good that it is giving you falsely high readings.
Thanks for suggesting the sanity check. I'll try to heat up the sensor to a known, double-checked temperature and verify it against the gauge. Great suggestion. I may need to do it on my next oil change.
 
#26 ·
Do like the SW20 guys do and mount the oil cooler at the rear next to the muffler. Of course, you'll need a small muffler and some heat shielding between the two. A scoop of some sort to help pick up would be good too.

Image


Running it to the front would be hard on the stock pump. Also, getting all of that old oil out without an extractor would be difficult.