[Clifton]

Are you sure that all Camry's have immobilizers? I had Toyota check the build sheet on the engine I picked up and he only found "in-key remote keyless entry system". He seemed to think it was just door lock but not alarm. Is this not so? What do the Rav4's that do not have the immobilizers say on the sheet? Anyone know?

 

[Gouky]

Nope, I'm just an enthousiast, not an engineer working for Toyota. It's entirely possible that I am wrong.

 

[pnolette]

I think they all have an immobilizer from 2006 and beyond. I am heading down to the junkyard tomorrow to see if it is still in the car I got the motor from. I will let you know what I find out.

 

[donteatbugs]

I did this to find my RAV4 ecu. You could probably try the same thing on the camry VINs.



There isn't a part number difference between immobilizer and non. There is a way to search the vin and find out if it has an immobilizer and if its 2wd or 4wd.

If you put a VIN into toyodiy and go to Electrical>Anti-theft device>This is what you should see. If it has the part numbers and price then it will be useless.

89780 COMPUTER ASSY, TRANSPONDER KEY
Not applicable
89783 AMPLIFIER, TRANSPONDER KEY
Not applicable
89784 COMPUTER, IMMOBILIZER CODE
Not applicable

The same thing goes for the 4wd. Under Powertrain/chassis look for

36-08: TRANSFER ASSEMBLY & GASKET KIT
36-09: TRANSFER CASE & EXTENSION HOUSING
36-10: TRANSFER GEAR
37-01: PROPELLER SHAFT & UNIVERSAL JOINT
41-01: REAR AXLE HOUSING & DIFFERENTIAL

If it has those listed it is 4WD. It doesnt then it will be 2wd.

I have tested this twice when buying my ECUs and have found it to work 100% so far. Im not guaranteeing anything but it is worth doing the research and not wasting money on ecus that wont work. Im not sure why no one has posted this yet, seems like very useful info for swaps.
__________________

 

[pnolette]

That's a very cool website! Thanks for sharing. I looked the donor car VIN up on it and confirmed what I found when I went back to the junkyard today. I was able to pick up the whole steering column (with key), the Immobilizer ECU and the DBW gas pedal for $80. Well worth the trip. They would not let me take the A55 pigtail for the ECM from the engine bay since they were selling the whole front end of the car as a complete unit. Anyone know where to locate one of those?
Side note....If you are looking for the immobilizer ECU, it is way behind the airbox in the dash. Luckily the windshield was out and we could just pull the airbox out of the way and get to the ECU. Avoiding ripping the whole dash out. phew....

 

[Clifton]

Thanks for the link. It told me more than the dealer. You were right Gouky.

 

[scott1256ca]

I have read this thread (and several others). Hope these questions haven't been posted here, but if it has, sorry I missed it. I'm pretty new here.

In the other threads on v6 swaps it mentions getting harnesses from manual transmission cars, but I don't see that restriction here, and a number of the cars don't have manual options. So is getting the ecu from a manual not a concern with the 2GR-FE?

Gouky mentions clutch and flywheel on the first page. Are those requirements, or just "nice to have" and which clutch and flywheel did you go with, if you don't mind my asking?

Immobilizers: What exactly is the issue here? If you get an ecu from i.e. a camry, that would come with an immobilizer. If you have the keyfob and the immobilizer from the car is that still a problem? Is that the issue you are having, is that you get the ecu and immobilzer from a car but it is useless without the keyfob or key? Sorry, I'm assuming most of these are pushbutton start, but haven't investigated.
Can the immobilizer for these be reprogrammed without going thru the dealer or are you into $400 or so for getting the immobilizer reprogrammed and a new keyfob or key cut with chip in it?

Thx

 

[Gouky]

no problem.

There are no Toyota manual transmission 2GR-FE applications. The advantage of doing that harness on the other builds is to avoid using an automatic transmission ECU to avoid the fault codes. as it is, there is no way to avoid the automatic transmission fault codes at the moment.

Clutch and flywheel, the 2GR uses the same bolt pattern as the 1MZ/3VZ engines. you can pick whatever clutch flywheel combo you want that fits those applications.

Personally i like the Fidanza lightweight flywheel and the ceramic puck sprung center clutch from ACT. but that clutch isn't for everyone, if you want to discuss your intended usage we can talk about what may be better for you. drop me an e-mail: Marc@frankensteinmotorworks.com to discuss that.

As for the immobilizer, if you have all the parts it isn't hard to use it. but almost 100% of people that get told from a junkyard that it is an immobilizer free ECU just end up with a non functional ECU.

There currently is no way to reprogram an immobilizer ECU to not be an immobilizer ECU. if you have all the matching parts except the key you can get a key programmed at the dealer (if they are very co-operative). if you don't have the matching immobilizer ECU you have to use a new immobilizer ECU, a used one will never pair with the engine computer.

I sell new non immobilizer ECUs for $750. I also have an AEM Infinity solution for those interested. the AEM solution comes with a naturally aspirated base tune.

 

[jagibbs]

I would recommend the new non immobilizer ECU to avoid headache or any uncertainty regarding whether you're getting an immobilizer or non-immobilizer ECU. This is what I did.

My engine and harness were from an ES350. That harness comes to a point on the middle of the front side of the engine (right side of the MR2 bay). For this reason, I used the 2-plug waterproof version (from a RAV-4) and mounted it in the engine bay just above the passenger side side vent.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably use the engine harness from a Highlander which coalesces into the main plugs near the rear left side of the engine bay so I could mount the ECU in the trunk in the stock location.

I also have the clutch/flywheel setup that Gouky mentions. I really disliked it at first, but after about 1500-2000 miles it has broken in a significant amount and I have also gotten used to it. It can feel as smooth and effortless as stock, but it can easily become a bastard if you are not giving 100% concentration to your shifts. I may also state that I am using a stock rubber front engine mount and a solid rear poly engine mount. (2 poly's were too much in-cab vibration for me).

Been driving the hell out of this setup for the past 2 years with a couple of track days and no reliability issues yet.

just my 2c

 

[perthmr2]

Just to add that it is possible to pair a used immobiliser ECU to engine computer

As long as you have the matching master key that comes with the immobiliser there is a pairing sequence you can do to get Engine ECU to recognise it
I have done this because my Engine ECU came out of a smart start enabled car and buying a non immobiliser one was not an option in my case as it is a TRD Supercharged ECU and the maps are different

I just got the immobiliser and key from a wreckers

 

[Gouky]

Just to add that it is possible to pair a used immobiliser ECU to engine computer

As long as you have the matching master key that comes with the immobiliser there is a pairing sequence you can do to get Engine ECU to recognise it
I have done this because my Engine ECU came out of a smart start enabled car and buying a non immobiliser one was not an option in my case as it is a TRD Supercharged ECU and the maps are different

I just got the immobiliser and key from a wreckers

Yes, but it does require a very co-operative dealer and the immobilizer ECU has to match the appropriate ECU type. despite the part being the same, they have a serial number on them and are locked to a specific model of vehicle.

 

[perthmr2]

Yes, but it does require a very co-operative dealer and the immobilizer ECU has to match the appropriate ECU type. despite the part being the same, they have a serial number on them and are locked to a specific model of vehicle.

I know you had to get a dealer to program a new key for you when you did your first swap but if you can get a key and matching transponder ecu from the wreckers it is quite easy to pair it to an existing engine ecu providing they are from the same series vehicle

We have been able to pick these parts up easy enough for around $200aus so should be even cheaper in the US

I can confirm that it does work in mine and a couple of other swaps, here is the procedure copied from the immobiliser service bulletin

ECU ID Communication:
When replacing the ECM (SAE term: PCM) or the Transponder ECU a “handshake”
procedure must be performed. This ECU ID communication is necessary to enable the
Transponder ECU and the ECM to recognize each other before the vehicle will start.
Complete ECU communication using the following steps:
1. Insert a Master key into the ignition cylinder.
2. Turn the ignition ON (engine OFF).
3. Short Tc and CG terminals of DLC3 using the Diagnostic Check Wire
(SST 09843–18020 or equivalent) and leave for 30 minutes.
4. After 30 minutes, turn the ignition OFF and remove check wire from DLC3.
5. Register any additional keys as necessary.
6. Start the vehicle to confirm successful ECU communication

 

[genyosai]

The 5-plug non immobilizer comes from the highlander.

if you want a 5-plug ECU without immobilizer, just ask for an ECU for this VIN: jteds41a882066320

Are all 2008 Highlander 5-plug ECUs non-immobilizer? I have a 2005 Avalon donor which has the smart-key and would rather get a non-immobilizer ECU off eBay for $100+, but non of the listing specify whether their non-immobilizer.

If ALL 2008 Highlander ECUs are non-immobilizer then I can just order one without worry.

Thanks!

 

[Gouky]

I'd say over 90% of highlander ECUs are immobilized. probably closer to 95% or so.

I can get you a new one without immobilizer for $800. the cheaper way is just to get an ECU with the immobilizer ECU antenna and key. it really isn't that hard to wire up.

 

[genyosai]

I'd say over 90% of highlander ECUs are immobilized. probably closer to 95% or so.

I can get you a new one without immobilizer for $800. the cheaper way is just to get an ECU with the immobilizer ECU antenna and key. it really isn't that hard to wire up.

OK, maybe I'll just go with the immobilizer setup. I have everything in the donor car.... the donor starts up without issue.

Gouky... I'll be buying your 2gr swap kit ASAP. I think I ran across it for like $1,600+ or something like that ( ATS Racing ). Tell me this, however.....

Do you have a step by step swap guide (or can you write up one) to swap in a 2gr from a 2005 Avalon with immobilizer (into a 1991 MR2 SW21)? I'd pay for the step-by-step (i.e. installation steps, preferred parts like axles, transmissions, flywheels, clutch, etc.)

 

[Gouky]

OK, maybe I'll just go with the immobilizer setup. I have everything in the donor car.... the donor starts up without issue.

Gouky... I'll be buying your 2gr swap kit ASAP. I think I ran across it for like $1,600+ or something like that ( ATS Racing ). Tell me this, however.....

Do you have a step by step swap guide (or can you write up one) to swap in a 2gr from a 2005 Avalon with immobilizer (into a 1991 MR2 SW21)? I'd pay for the step-by-step (i.e. installation steps, preferred parts like axles, transmissions, flywheels, clutch, etc.)

Please just buy the kit directly from me, get a hold of me at Marc@frankensteinmotorworks.com

There is no one step-by-step guide, but all the information is posted and I will answer e-mails for free. no need to pay for it beyond the actual kit price.

The big issue for most people is the wiring. I was never able to make a exact wiring guide because toyota has a ton of variances on this harness. But this is now resolved with the Lotus option. it's a bit more money but they only have one harness variation and I'm releasing pigtails with pinouts that will make it quite easy to wire into the car. see this thread for more details on that: http://www.mr2oc.com/188-v6-mr2-for...sions-legal-na-s-c-2gr-fe-swap-7200rpm-redline-yes-even-you-californians-7.html

 

[genyosai]

Please just buy the kit directly from me, get a hold of me at Marc@frankensteinmotorworks.com

There is no one step-by-step guide, but all the information is posted and I will answer e-mails for free. no need to pay for it beyond the actual kit price.

The big issue for most people is the wiring. I was never able to make a exact wiring guide because toyota has a ton of variances on this harness. But this is now resolved with the Lotus option. it's a bit more money but they only have one harness variation and I'm releasing pigtails with pinouts that will make it quite easy to wire into the car. see this thread for more details on that: http://www.mr2oc.com/188-v6-mr2-for...sions-legal-na-s-c-2gr-fe-swap-7200rpm-redline-yes-even-you-californians-7.html

Deal!! So you're saying that soon you'll have a 5-plug edu pre-made harness for the SW20's?

 

[mh77388]

I have a 2GR motor for sale if anyone is interested.

 

[merryfrankster]

Great thread thanks.

 

[R_P_Slate]

I have done a massive amount of reading, and a massive amount of emails to Gouky (Thank you)
But I wanted some additional input from those of you who have done the swap?

What intake did you use? I read Gouky's notes on where to mount the maf, but has anyone used a stock intake? if so from what vehicle? What aftermarket intakes and air filters are people using?
Pics?

What Fuel pressure regulator did you use? and why? (I have seen about 5 different aeromotive through the forums)
what accessories did you use? hoses? gauges?
Can I see pics of how you mounted them?

Clutch and flywheel?
I have seen about 5 different clutch and fly wheel combos used.
I am looking for something similar to the stock clutch, as I daily drive (commute) in my car, but I also like to put my foot down. Please let me know what clutch and fly wheel combo you have used, its reliability? How long has it lasted? and pedal feel.
again pics?

Thanks