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OK, a question Matt.

Spark latency.

Is it supposed to be adjusted to a value that maintains -10 degrees BTDC when increasing RPMs, in the Fixed Timing setting?

Or, how do we determine the proper spark latency? I have 1zz COPs, but others would need to know the method for stock, or other coils.

Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #302 ·
You'll set a fixed timing angle (normally, that shouldn't be minus ten) and then check with a timing light from idle to around 4000 RPM. If this value is set correctly, the timing will be correct across the rev range.
 
I just made a separate thread on Hardware Spark Latency after discovering the feature. Matt, I think you should add in some instructions on checking this to the MSPNP install document for the MR2. My car would retard 2+ degrees as the rpms went up with the 30 uSec thats preset into the basemap. I had to bump this up to 170 uSec to keep it stable. Just wish that I had known about this setting from day one before I started tuning the ignition map!

Setting this correctly really should be in the install document!
 
ATSAaron said:
I think you mean 10. Not -10.

On the MSPNP it just depends on where you set the ecu to hold timing. I like using 15 because it's easier to see.

Aaron

Probably easier on the engine too when checking Hardware Spark Latency. I noticed that mine generated a lot of heat when I revved the motor up while holding only 10 degrees.
 
Matt Cramer said:
You'll need a timing light that supports wasted spark or has a 2-stroke mode. Or use zero dial-back.

Composite logging is documented here:

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_tooth_logger.html

Here's a sample of a 36-1 crank and 1 tooth cam signal.

Image
hi Matt,

One thing I noticed, is that my cam spike happens about 100 degrees AFTER the missing crank tooth.

From earlier discussion and the example image, it looks like the cam spike should be slightly BEFORE the crank missing tooth.

Not high priority, but can the injector angle be adjusted instead of the trigger wheel? It's obviously easier to type a few numbers, than turn a few wrenches. ;)

it appears that there is a "fixed timing" angle, or a "use table" angle for the injectors that varies slightly according to RPM.

And what crank angle, 0-720 degrees, has proven optimal for injection on 3sgtes? With that information, it shouldn't matter if the cam spike is before or after the crank missing tooth (but please let me know if it does matter!)

...by my estimation, the intake valve for #1 should be open somewhere around 400 degrees, as the piston is falling in the bore in prep for the compression stroke.
thanks
 
Smurfcrusher said:
And what crank angle, 0-720 degrees, has proven optimal for injection on 3sgtes? With that information, it shouldn't matter if the cam spike is before or after the crank missing tooth (but please let me know if it does matter!)
Optimal what? Power, torque, emissions, fuel economy, idle quality? For what type of spray pattern? What differential fuel pressure? Stock or ported? Standard size valves or oversize?

This is why an EMS gives you adjustability.
 
RickyB said:
Optimal what? Power, torque, emissions, fuel economy, idle quality? For what type of spray pattern? What differential fuel pressure? Stock or ported? Standard size valves or oversize?

This is why an EMS gives you adjustability.
Idle quality. Stock standard valves. Denso 540 injectors.

Although general info or links on that for other permutations, would be great to share.
Folks would surely appreciate how to best spray fuel relative to valve opening to get max power, fuel economy, etc.
 
There is a rule of thumb that you want all the fuel to be injected just before the intake valve start opening. Also, this rule of thumb said that you need to inject 10? earlier for each subsequent 1000 RPM increment. All of this because you want the fuel to sit on a hot closed intake valve so it can evaporate. But, as RPM increase, the sitting time decrease, so you need to inject earlier to give the fuel enough time to evaporate correctly. Begin with "End-of-Pulse" and the begin of open intake valve timing in the idle RPM column and add 10? to each 1000 RPM column increment.

Sam
 
pitcelica is pretty much on the money. A good EMS should allow you to set the point at which the injection pulse ends relative to the point at which the intake cam is going to open. For best idle quality, you want all the fuel to be in the port swirling and mixing for a short amount of time before the intake valve opens and fill the cylinder with it. If you are too early, some fuel will evaporate or condense out, if you are too late, some portions of the mixture will be too rich and others too lean and result in poor emissions and idle quality.

Calculate the angle at which the intake valve opens on your setup relative to whatever parameters your specific EMS uses and play with settings that end the injection pulse at 10-30 degrees before valve opening. For best idle quality, that's easy because you can adjust it without special equipment. You should shoot for best overall idle quality under a range of loads (headlights on/off, brake on/off, AC on/off).

At high engine speeds and loads, the injectors are nearly always open, so injector phasing has practically no effect on anything.
 
Interesting, thank you. In my mspnp2 the injection timing map is between 90 and 110 degrees (the latter for redline). If this is degrees after spark, it is WAY off.
Intuitively I would have expected benefits from injecting as the air is rushing into the cylinder - so cooling from fuel evaporation takes heat from the pre-combustion air, instead of from the hot aluminum surfaces pre valve.

You guys have a lot more knowledge than I do in this area so I expect there are reasons my theory is wrong.
 
All the degree values in MS are BTDC on the compression/power stroke (so positive values are BTDC). You can choose the injection timing value to be either "Start of pulse" or "End of pulse". A lot of users are using "End of pulse" because this is what you want to do : you want all the fuel to be injected just before the intake valve open. So, if you know when the intake valve open (about 368? BTDC on comp/power stroke for a gen2), then you can build your injection timing table pretty easily using "End-of-pulse".

As for the cooling from the fuel evaporation, it's still doing it's job when the air is in the intake runner, right in front of the closed intake valve. This same air will go into the cylinder as soon as the intake valve will open.

Here's what you do not want to happen using injector timing :
-You do not want to inject too early so that fuel evaporate too fast and the reversion of air flow in the runner send back the air/fuel mixture into the plenum as this fuel may be redirected to the wrong cylinder. This lead to bad cylinder-to-cylinder fueling. This scenario may happen if you are injecting right after the valve closed.
-You do not want to inject on an open valve (directly in the combustion chamber) because there is a good portion of the fuel that is still in a liquid state and will not have enough time to evaporate. This will lead to a bad fuel mileage (bad combustion efficiency) and will increase HC (more pollution if this matter for you).

As Ricky said it, injection timing will have influence on low-load/low to mid RPM. At high RPM/High load, the injector pulse is so long, that it's using a good portion of the whole cycle and you can't do much about this, because you need all this fuel.

Sam
 
Discussion starter · #315 ·
Smurfcrusher said:
hi Matt,

One thing I noticed, is that my cam spike happens about 100 degrees AFTER the missing crank tooth.

From earlier discussion and the example image, it looks like the cam spike should be slightly BEFORE the crank missing tooth.
That's perfectly fine. It can take slightly longer to sync up while cranking, but that is the ONLY effect that will have. The only thing to avoid is having the cam spike happen ON TOP the missing tooth.

Not high priority, but can the injector angle be adjusted instead of the trigger wheel? It's obviously easier to type a few numbers, than turn a few wrenches. ;)
Injector angle is totally separate from the trigger wheel. As pitcelica noted, it's in crank degrees, and as such it is also separate from the spark table.
 
Is there a wiring diagram for the MSPNP on the MR2? I am planning on making a new engine harness so if I can eliminate every unnecessary wire, it'll look a lot cleaner. :)

Also, does anyone know what I should set for injector-specific settings for ATS's 1200cc injectors? They look like Delphi models.
 
JLee said:
Is there a wiring diagram for the MSPNP on the MR2? I am planning on making a new engine harness so if I can eliminate every unnecessary wire, it'll look a lot cleaner. :)

Also, does anyone know what I should set for injector-specific settings for ATS's 1200cc injectors? They look like Delphi models.

Dont need
- Cold start injector
- cold start injector temperature sensor
- any of the diagnostics port wiring
- stock 02 sensor
- Stock MAP sensor wiring, unless you want to keep stock gauge for some reason
- fuel pump resistor pack
- injector resistor pack
- AFM plug
- theres somethings else....

Thats a lot of wiring eliminated... especially due to the diagnostics port delete.

Insulate and re-insulate the TPS wires. Electrical interference with those will screw with your TPSdot numbers and make it difficult to set Acceleration Enrichment.
 
OK ! here's a good one.

I noticed the tach doesn't work anymore with the gen2 mspnp2 and Coil On Plug ignition (expected) but the A/C doesn't as well !!

Cursory investigation shows the AC controller looks to the tach signal to verify the engine is running, before allowing the magnetic clutch to engage.

Matt, do you know of a method to bring the tach signal back to full stock voltage? I was planning to put a lower resistance resistor in the tach to get it to work with the MSPNP2 tach signal, but obviously that will not work for the air conditioner controller.

might it be possible to send the MSPNP2 tach signal to the stock igniter, so that it fires the stock high voltage tach signal?

help !!
 
ATSAaron said:
The MR2 tach (and I assume Celica tach) are driven off the stock ignitor, not the ecu. As long as you are still using the stock ignitor your tach should operate fine.

Aaron
Thanks Aaron. No, not using the stock ignitor. Running COPs which have their own ignitors and are running wasted spark.
so I'm wondering if the MSPNP2 tach output
#1: triggers at the rate the stock tachometer needs and
#2: if that signal can drive the stock igniter to allow the air conditioning to work again, by providing the stock high voltage tach pulse that the AC controller needs.
 
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