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The official MSPNP FAQ thread for MR2s

68K views 414 replies 45 participants last post by  ky3mr2  
What would I need to purchase if I wanted to go with MS3?

Could I just buy this assembled unit and and an intake temperature sensor?
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtiii-ems-system-v357-assembled-unit-p-399.html

Would I also need this harness, or does a basic harness come with the MS3 unit?
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/839-megasquirt-wiring-harness-ms1-ms2-ms3-ready-p-477.html

I could solder the harness to an oem connector and have a plug in system. Then load up the base map for the 3sgte. Would there be anything else I would need to change or add to make the assembled MS3 function on the 3sgte?
 
Thanks for clearing that up! I was wondering what the difference was between the two MS3 units and which one I would need.

So I would need both harnesses because MS3 and MS3X Expansion both have their own harness plugs on the back of the ecu?

Sorry for posting in the wrong thread. I just figured id ask here since it was a faq thread.
 
PitBull said:
From what I understand, the stock ECU controls the fuel pump relay which in turn switches the fuel pump between low and high volume mode.

Does the MSPNP actively control this relay? If so, are the control parameters adjustable somewhere in TunerStudio?

I don't know how MS handles it, but I wanted to point out that this feature is mostly to help reduce electrical usage at idle. You can leave it running at full speed all the time and it won't really make a difference.
 
RickyB said:
That's not quite true. Look closely at the testing that Wolfkatz did on the stock fuel rail about five years ago. It clearly shows that the stock gen2 rail is restrictive enough that a pressure differential is created when the fuel pump is running in high volume mode and the injectors are not removing fuel from the rail (idle and low load). This creates a fueling imbalance which increases emissions and causes half the cylinders to run hotter than the others at cruising.

If you are going to run your fuel pump a high volume at all times, you need to be running a bored rail or larger aftermarket rail.
I've been running mine at high volume for about 8 years now with the stock fuel rail and zero issues.

The gen3 motors still have the same high/low mode yet with an 8mm fuel rail, right? This would lead me to believe that Toyota engineers simply didn't want to load your electrical system up by running it at full blast when it doesn't need it, and believed that the fuel pressure regulator would do its job.
 
PitBull said:
I'm talking about the fuel pump relay that diverts power through the resistor to slow the pump. According to the BGB, the ground for the coil of that relay comes from the ECU. When I started my engine, that relay engaged (I saw it because I had the cover removed from the relay). Since the MS plugs into the factory harness, either the MS is switching it to ground or that pin is just grounded. If it's grounded, then that means the relay is always engaged and the fuel pump is always in low-flow mode. That seems pretty unlikely as I'd think you'd go super lean at high boost regardless of where you set your fuel table, and isn't happening to me that I can tell. Granted I dialed my boost down to 14psi while I'm tuning but I'd think even 14psi would starve the engine of fuel if the pump was in low flow.

According to the wiring diagram Low Mode is the default, so if you saw your relay click over, then it means it switched over to high mode.
 
PitBull said:
Image


looks to me like it's normally giving the FP 12v and when the relay is activated, it goes thru the resistor.
In that diagram it is. But I'm looking at an official Toyota 3sgte diagram that shows it being the other way around. Sounds like we found a mistake in one of these two diagrams. Is yours from an oem book?
 
sidewaysSW20 said:
Well i did notice in the settings that the TVIS is set to open at 4200. I thought the general consensus was that 3700 was the ideal opening setting, im sure this was verified to be less than ideal on the dyno. Although it could be why my turbo was surging well before 4200 due to the butterflies being close=intake path restriction. I guess i can always change it and do some datalogs to see its overall effect on afrs. Be interesting to see how much leaner it runs with the TVIS opening when it used to be closed at a certain point.

That probably is why your turbo was surging. When tvis is closed under boost, things become VERY restrictive.

You have to remember that this is just a base map, not a fully optimized map tuned to perfection, so things like afr and tivs will have to be dialed in.

The second thing you should keep in mind is that the factory tvis doesn't just open and close at one specific rpm. If you hook up an led to the factory ecu, you will see what the behavior is much more complicated than that, and that for the most part, tvis is never closed under boost. Its just really designed to help get the car moving from a dead stop, and stays open for the remainder of your driving as long as your rpm doesn't drop below 2,000 rpm.

If I were you I would change the set point to about 3,000 rpm and see if the surging goes away.
 
ricky91mr2 said:
When the base tune was set up on this MSPNP2 was the cold start injector utilized? Or was it tuned for not using the cold start injector? I ask because I am planning on installing the IAT sensor in place of the cold start injector and I want to verify it does or doe snot utilize it before I do this and possibly have idle issues. (with the base tune)

I don't believe it uses the cold start injector, however a few people have pointed out that using that location for the temp sensor is not a good idea because it will just heat soak the sensor. Your best bet is to have the sensor welded in before the throttle body.
 
yellowtailsushi said:
mk1 here, i have no existing knowledge of tuning, will be adding a turbo to a stock 4age in the future.

is this something i can use to learn the numbers and start doing small tuning changes before the turbo and then after doing FI use it as a ems?

or there is another MS product for me?

It's an EMS. You can use it as an EMS before and after you turbo your car.
 
Ozymandias said:
OK that is good to know. So I guess I most probably won't need to change my ECU, but I am still curious. So let me rephrase my question. Is there any circumstance where it would be preferable to install a tuned ROM instead of just getting an MSPNP? Considering the price is about the same of course...

It seems that the additional flexibility, driveability, and features makes it a no brainer.

The only benefit to a rom tune is that it started out as a factory ecu, so you get all the benefits of having a lot of minor things worked out for you, as well as the benefit of the really good knock detection in the stock ecu. The drawback is that you are forever stuck with the terrible air flow meter, and upgrading to larger injectors or changing a few minor settings is not a simple task. Its also good to remember that its 1980s technology, that was hacked to add features.

I'm not sure how much was changed in the ATS map for the MSPNP, but the one from diyautotune is just a base map to get you started. There will be things like closed loop idle, deceleration, closed loop fueling, throttle enrichment, fuel map, and timing map that will need to be adjusted or set up. I'm not sure how much of this ATS has or has not done in their map.

It really boils down to this. If you want to plug something in and never think about it again, the rom tune is probably for you. If you want to upgrade your car to a far superior map based ecu, and are willing to put in the time (and possibly money) into setting everything up perfectly then get the MSPNP. And if you're really crazy, build your own DIYPNP. :thumbup
 
I just made a separate thread on Hardware Spark Latency after discovering the feature. Matt, I think you should add in some instructions on checking this to the MSPNP install document for the MR2. My car would retard 2+ degrees as the rpms went up with the 30 uSec thats preset into the basemap. I had to bump this up to 170 uSec to keep it stable. Just wish that I had known about this setting from day one before I started tuning the ignition map!

Setting this correctly really should be in the install document!
 
ATSAaron said:
I think you mean 10. Not -10.

On the MSPNP it just depends on where you set the ecu to hold timing. I like using 15 because it's easier to see.

Aaron

Probably easier on the engine too when checking Hardware Spark Latency. I noticed that mine generated a lot of heat when I revved the motor up while holding only 10 degrees.