i have always added oil when replacing shocks. oil transfer heat away from shocks so it does not burn out. you only need a little bit.

Dennis

 

The BGB doesn't mention it because the stock shocks arn't inserts. The stock housing is actually the outer casing of the shock. When you disassemble a stock shock to add an insert you actually pour out the shocks oil and pull out the piston, valves, ect.

Every insert installation instructions will tell you to add oil, as you mention its to improve heat transfer out of the damper. Oil doesn't really evaportate, not like water does, and the gland nut will actually seal it pretty well.

Add the oil, it doesn't really matter what type, just whatever motor oil you have laying arround.

 

When you say add a little of oil. does that mean to added the oil so that when the shocks is in, the oil should rise somewhat up to half of the housing or near top?

Thank you so much for the fast response.

The only thing now is how I'm going to tighten that gland nuts or should i take it to the shop and pay them to have the nuts tighten? Not sure how tight I should tighten it if I do it by myself.

 

When you say add a little of oil. does that mean to added the oil so that when the shocks is in, the oil should rise somewhat up to half of the housing or near top?

Thank you so much for the fast response.

The only thing now is how I'm going to tighten that gland nuts or should i take it to the shop and pay them to have the nuts tighten? Not sure how tight I should tighten it if I do it by myself.

To German torque specs.

 

I use ATF when I do strut inserts, it has a better heat absorption ability.

 

I've just notice the different in height between the KYB Excel-G and the Tokico Illumina when I placed them both side by side.
Tokico was installed before. KYB is what I was planning to replace to go back to stock. Thanks for all the help btw.


So which is correct? Does the height matter at all?

 

If I remember correctly when I had Tokico's they came with a spacer to go between the gland nut and the top of the shock. It looks like you won't need that with the KYB's.

Did the KYB's come with their own gland nut? Sometimes the nuts / shocks are designed to fit together.

 

Yeah, KYBs have their own gland nut. You shouldnt reuse those.

 

I use ATF when I do strut inserts, it has a better heat absorption ability.

Never knew that! cool!

 

Yes, the KYB do come with the gland nuts. That's funny I didn't remember seeing the spacer Alex was talking about. The Tokico was installed by a shop so I didn't get to see how it was installed. The last time I took the car out, several times it feel like i'm absorbing every little bump from the road, especially the rail road track. So I bought new shocks and took the Tokico out to find that 1 of the shock is blown.

My buddy said that the bump I feel directly from the car chassis is probably due to the bump stopper hitting the shocks and the upper struts mount.

So that raise another question: Do i need to shave the bump stopper down a bit since it's I've changed the springs to the Eibach one. The KYB boot cover comes with the bump stopper but do not know if it need to b shaved or left alone. I just want a comfort ride for an everyday driven car for now.

 

Well, after making sure I got everything right, I dived in for the installation.
Had some left over Redline MT90 so I use that instead. The shocks seems to fit more firmly and center when there is oil. I use anti-seize on the gland nuts due to my exhausted experience when removing it last time since it was rusted. Tighten it with pipe wrench.

Got the boot and bump stopper from KYB which are cheaply made but I couldn't wait for several more days for the rubber one to come if I order it today from the dealer. Then I found out I don't have a long cable tie to tie the bottom of the boot, so off to the store I go. Was thinking of using clamp instead.

Next will be the springs and upper mount. SIGH.... I'm drained from the HOT weather here.

Thank you once again for all the help, I really appreciated the great tips and info.

 

You may want to consider cutting the bumpstops in half. The KYBs are taller than the oem bumstops.

 

That's funny I didn't remember seeing the spacer Alex was talking about.

I think I remember a spacer, but I could be wrong. The difference might be just in the gland nut as well.

 

You may want to consider cutting the bumpstops in half. The KYBs are taller than the oem bumstops.

Whoa!!! You almost got me there since I just finished putting on the springs
and upper mount for the front struts.

Luckily I still have the OEM bump stopper laying around to compare the KYB to.
Here are the results of the comparison:

OEM Bump Stopper

KYB Bump Stopper

KYB & OEM Side by side

Completed front struts installed

So there you have it. Thank you for letting me know. If the KYB was indeed higher than stock then I would probably shot myself if I have gone and installed the struts to the car. Phewww......

Btw, the KYB gland nuts is a bit longer than the Tokico one. I haven't seen the stock one so don't know what's the differences are. Both KYB and Tokico gland nuts leaves the same amount of thread left after I tighten it to the max that I can. Just FYI.

SIGH!!! What a day. Thank you all. You've all been a tremendous help.

 

You can cut the bumpstops even after everything is back together =p

What springs are you using? the amount of drop the springs give should determine how much you cut your bumpstops by.

 

You can cut the bumpstops even after everything is back together =p

What springs are you using? the amount of drop the springs give should determine how much you cut your bumpstops by.

The springs are Eibach Pro with 1" drop all around. So you're saying that I need to cut 1" off of the KYB bump stopper?

It definitely make sense. Is that the reason why my previous Tokico shocks seems a bit rough since the stock bump was not shaved when installed?

 

The springs are Eibach Pro with 1" drop all around. So you're saying that I need to cut 1" off of the KYB bump stopper?

It definitely make sense. Is that the reason why my previous Tokico shocks seems a bit rough since the stock bump was not shaved when installed?

It looks like you're comparing the 91 OEM bumpstops to the KYBs. Those are similar. The 93+ bumpstops are smaller. Also, depending on your springs, leaving the bumpstops installed as is means a higher chance of bottoming out. I've heard that with some of the more severe drop springs, the car is already riding on the bump stops the second you put it on the ground.

 

It looks like you're comparing the 91 OEM bumpstops to the KYBs. Those are similar. The 93+ bumpstops are smaller. Also, depending on your springs, leaving the bumpstops installed as is means a higher chance of bottoming out. I've heard that with some of the more severe drop springs, the car is already riding on the bump stops the second you put it on the ground.

Really? So how much should I shaved the bump stopper if it's Ebaich springs that I'm using which is 1" drop front and rear?

 

I think the typical practice is knocking off the top 1/4 to 1/2 of the stop. I cut my KYB in half. It's just designed to keep the assembly from bottoming out metal against metal. The boot will hang kind of loose, because as you cut the top, the hole gets slightly bigger. It isn't a huge deal. You can also run it with the full bumpstop I guess. If your car doesn't bottom out then you're fine. If it does, people have cut the bumpstop while the spring is still installed over the strut. Hope that helps.

 

I think the typical practice is knocking off the top 1/4 to 1/2 of the stop. I cut my KYB in half. It's just designed to keep the assembly from bottoming out metal against metal. The boot will hang kind of loose, because as you cut the top, the hole gets slightly bigger. It isn't a huge deal. You can also run it with the full bumpstop I guess. If your car doesn't bottom out then you're fine. If it does, people have cut the bumpstop while the spring is still installed over the strut. Hope that helps.

This is exactly the answer that I'm looking for. You have been a great help and so is everyone else. As far as what you say about "the bump stopper being a lilttle bigger as it's being cut down" is just right on.

I guess I'll just leave the bottom hang free too since using zip tie or cable tie would not work due to the plastic molding of the boot being bigger in diameter vs the struts housing itself.

Thank you for helping me clarifying this issue.

 

I solved the larger bump stop problem by wrapping masking tape arround the strut shaft (just the top 1/2") to make the shaft a little larger and fill the gap between it and the bumpstop. They havn't moved yet...

 

Good info in this thread. I want to upgrade my suspension with some Koni's and TRD. What is the parts list for the swap? Assume I do not disasemle the OEM assemlby (ie bump stops, insert, strut place, carrier (?) etc...) to rebuild.

Can someone elaborate on the oil in the strut housing? Does this let the insert move/rotate after being put in the housing or just easy assembly?

EDIT: If I do not reuse the stock shock housing can I buy these individually? What have you guys done?

 

Good info in this thread. I want to upgrade my suspension with some Koni's and TRD. What is the parts list for the swap? Assume I do not disasemle the OEM assemlby (ie bump stops, insert, strut place, carrier (?) etc...) to rebuild.

Can someone elaborate on the oil in the strut housing? Does this let the insert move/rotate after being put in the housing or just easy assembly?

EDIT: If I do not reuse the stock shock housing can I buy these individually? What have you guys done?

Actually, the ONLY purpose of the oil is for heat transfer, otherwise you will have a 1mm or so air gap between the insert and the housing.

If you wanted to build a complete strut you would need the housing, insert, boot/bumpstop, spring, spring top, strut top mount, spacers (rear only if I remember correctly) and strut top nut (included with the Konis).

 

Actually, the ONLY purpose of the oil is for heat transfer, otherwise you will have a 1mm or so air gap between the insert and the housing.

If you wanted to build a complete strut you would need the housing, insert, boot/bumpstop, spring, spring top, strut top mount, spacers (rear only if I remember correctly) and strut top nut (included with the Konis).

And possibly buy new coil insulator. Or do most people reuse the crusty old one?

 

And possibly buy new coil insulator. Or do most people reuse the crusty old one?

O yeah, I forgot about those, between the spring and the spring hat. I just re-used my stock ones, but they wern't in too bad of shape either.