It's all a variety of arc-radii. You change one parameter, you've changed them all. On a strut suspension (usually) going negative on camber tends to toe it in - but that is far from universal. Too many variables.

 

It's all a variety of arc-radii. You change one parameter, you've changed them all. On a strut suspension (usually) going negative on camber tends to toe it in - but that is far from universal. Too many variables.

Thanks. I am not changing huge amount, so hopefully the toe changes will be minimal. I will be careful of handling characteristics and tire wear after I so this. I am just trying to correct one side. After changing to a larger tire, it has become more apparent the alignment shop did not get them set equally, as clearance to the strut (which is small now) is not equal on both sides, and one side rubs on the fender while under compression and the other does not.

 

If you change camber, correct the toe. Don't think that you can change it a little and get away with thinking the toe is okay. Trust me, I've practically destroyed a pair of tires after doing the same, and the car was scary to drive. 400 miles of driving, and the tires were badly feathered and worn quite a bit.

In another instance, I made a change to the ride height and camber on my car via camber plates, and I ended up with 3 cm, over an inch, of toe in. I did a basic alignment in the garage before even driving it to the alignment shop.

Also, don't always trust only one side rubbing as a sign that the camber is not identical on both sides. My car, even with no accidents, has a bit of difference in the front tire/fender relation. One fender sticks out slightly farther.

 

Just FYI - you can accurately set camber with a good carpenter's level, a straight edge, and a protractor (or, if you're good in geometry, a ruler). You can accurately set toe with a good steel tape and a straight board. The only rub is getting the steering centered, but with trial and error, and a little math, you can save a bunch of $$. Caster, however, ain't quite so easy. That's the way race car at-the-track alignment stuff works - just glorified versions of the above. Take a look at some of the stuff at the supply shops, like Racer Wholesale (and Racer Wholesale Supply, same company - just different inventory), or Summit Racing.

 

Thanks for the additional info guys. I will be careful with adjustments and might look more into the DIY alignment techniques.

I can see the camber is different enough just by looking at the dust that the tires pick up when rolling on flat surfaces (pulling into my garage). It is giving me a pretty good impression of the rolling contact surface. It is backing up my gap differences. I am sure the fenders are not good for this, but I am checking the gap to the strut housing. I am thinking that is more accurate. But again, this is only for early diagnosis. I will use a good level and one of the DIY techniques for checking this (and recheck toe afterwards).

 

Just FYI - you can accurately set camber with a good carpenter's level, a straight edge, and a protractor (or, if you're good in geometry, a ruler). You can accurately set toe with a good steel tape and a straight board. The only rub is getting the steering centered, but with trial and error, and a little math, you can save a bunch of $$. Caster, however, ain't quite so easy. That's the way race car at-the-track alignment stuff works - just glorified versions of the above. Take a look at some of the stuff at the supply shops, like Racer Wholesale (and Racer Wholesale Supply, same company - just different inventory), or Summit Racing.

its how the professionals work as well, laser alignment is horribly inaccurate (even the expensive versions), most people still work with string lol

so long as youve got a perfectly level surface, the only room for error is that of human error reading off of whatever scale is being used.

at work we create a box around the car with fishing line hung off of poles sat on axle stands. the string gets parralelled down the sides of the car and then toe can be measured in mm using a measurement from the front and rear of each wheel and the difference calculated

camber is best measured with a camber gauge, but its basically just an upright straight edge with legs that touch the lip of the wheel with a digital level attached to it and a bubble level so that you can ensure it is positioned correctly on the wheel. you have 3 legs for stability on good ones, but 2 can work as well

castor is more complex, there are a few ways of measuring it, personally i wouldnt bother on a road car so long as the settings look similar on both sides of the car. the effects of it on an MR2 are over exaggerated IMO, ive tried making coarse adjustments and the effects were minimal, whether that was down to compliance in other areas of the suspension though i wont know until ive renewed all the bushes and bearings

the best order to set the car up in though is ride height first, then camber, and toe third, then check the camber settings again. make sure that the sway bars arent preloaded though before you even start. if they are then youll want adjustable drop links to sort that else the car will drive awfully, and also your adjustments will get pulled around all over the place once the car starts moving around

 

Just FYI - you can accurately set camber with a good carpenter's level, a straight edge, and a protractor (or, if you're good in geometry, a ruler). You can accurately set toe with a good steel tape and a straight board. The only rub is getting the steering centered, but with trial and error, and a little math, you can save a bunch of $$. Caster, however, ain't quite so easy. That's the way race car at-the-track alignment stuff works - just glorified versions of the above. Take a look at some of the stuff at the supply shops, like Racer Wholesale (and Racer Wholesale Supply, same company - just different inventory), or Summit Racing.

Hell yeah you can =)
When we did the garage alignment, we used the magic plywood board method from NASIOC. We used some plywood cut to fit against the tire, a protractor, a level, and a tape measurer.
After we got it aligned, I took it to a shop with a Hunter alignment machine to get it dialed in, and we were less than .2? off even with our rudimentary tools.