I believe that runs to the heater core.

I don't know the part number, but I removed that pre fab rubber/metal coolant line and run my own. I have one for you if you want it...

 

Great, Thanks! I'll take it. I'll message you. Is there any difference in model years?

 

Part number 87208C in the diagram or 87208-17080 for the full part number. That is for the GEN2 engines USDM and JDM. PIPE SUB-ASSY, HEATER WATER, C

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - WATER PIPING / toyota | part list?JP-CarParts.com

 

While I'm here I'd like to replace the ECTS in the engine (not the one in the rad). Does anyone have a part number for the ECTS on a 94-T with AC?

 

It's a very common part number and if it's like most Toyotas and MR2s it will be this number 89422-35010.

ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM / toyota | part list?JP-CarParts.com

To make sure you get the right one put your chassis number into here ToyoDIY.com then navigate to the 'Model Code' then to 4. Electrical then to parts list 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM. Then look for 89422. The 5 numbers after that will complete your part number for your exact car. As long as it's got it's original engine it will be correct. The JP-CARPARTS website is JDM only so I can't be 100% if the part number I provided is correct. I'd be surprised if it wasn't though with how Toyota make things like this.

 

Thanks GDII, I'll try that.

Meanwhile, @Paluce - if you still have the pipe please let me know. I'd like to get on with this repair. Please check your private messages.

Thanks.

 

Just curious----did this leak turn out to be one of the hoses that connect to that pipe? Weird that the pipe itself would develop a hole.

 

Well, @emerdeaux, I don't know for sure.

 

Folks, I need some help figuring out how to get this darn hard-pipe out. There are two mounting points on the pipe, and I can't see or feel either one. The lower end of this pipe is under the turbo, and the bracket that comes down at the lower end of it disappears behind a cluster of some kind, leaving less than half inch clearance. The big mounting point near the middle of the pipe is under another cluster of some kind and just isn't accessible from either the top or the bottom.

Please see attached annotated diagram. Thanks.

So, do I have to take a lot of things off to get to this pipe out? I can't even find it in the BGB for some reason. Any advice would be welcome if you are familiar with this pipe.

For what it is worth, the leak seems to be near the high side of the pipe towards the rear of the car. But there is a weird clamp on the hose at that end of the pipe, which I can't quite figure out how to remove. I'm sort of afraid to take that hose off because I may not be able to get it back on. Maybe I can just get a new clamp for it.

Please help...

 

UPDATE:

I got the hose off, and used a regular clamp. Once I was sure it was water tight, I managed to feel around the pipe and sure enough there is a hole in it about 1-inch from the hose on the underside of the pipe. Damn it!

So, I either get this darn hard pipe out, or I may have to do some hack job to fix this leak. Do you think a rubber hose over the pipe, clamped on both ends would do the trick?

Rather just get this pipe out if that is not synonymous with tearing down half the engine. Please help...

 

The hole is probably a corrosion pin-hole as these are a known weak point. While a short term fix of clamping a rubber hose over the area my work you will be faced with replacement before too long.
I do not believe this coolant neck is available through Toyota anymore but pipe in question may be. Someone on the forum was offering a stainless alternative. Campos perhaps?

jim

 

Jim, thank you.

I forgot to mention I have already sourced a replacement pipe. What I need to know is how to get this part out so I can install the replacement pipe.

Now that I think some more, maybe I can just bypass the hard pipe with a rubber hose and just leave the hard pipe where it is. I guess it depends on how difficult it is to get the hard pipe out.

Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

"Now that I think some more, maybe I can just bypass the hard pipe with a rubber hose and just leave the hard pipe where it is. I guess it depends on how difficult it is to get the hard pipe out."

Isn't that what Paluce was suggesting? I don't see any reason why you couldn't just run a straight hose. I just finished a rebuild, so I'm very familiar with that pipe because it was a pain trying to figure where it attached, let alone how to take it off with the water inlet stuff and sensors are still on the block/tranny.

 

I don't know exactly what Paluce was suggesting since he didn't respond. I can only imagine that one long continuous hose likely would work if routed correctly so it doesn't interfere with anything.

 

FINAL UPDATE:

For those that may be tracking this, here is an update.

After much effort trying to figure out how to remove the old hard pipe that runs to the upper heater hose from under the breather (see pictures), I gave up. Instead, I got a 3.5 foot length of 5/8" heater hose, and bypassed the pipe all together. I routed the new hose along the same path as the hard pipe and zip tied it to the old pipe at top and bottom. It should stay in place.

I honestly don't know why Toyota used this hard pipe section between two 1-foot long heater hoses.

In the end this little fix cost about $10 in heater hose and clamps. Unfortunately, I now have a spare hard-pipe I bought from a board member for $63, and I have no need for it. If anyone needs one of these hard pipes let me know.

 

That's unfortunate you couldn't get it out. It's only held in by 2 bolts and the hoses at each end. Toyota would have used this over rubber hoses as metal is better if the cooling system is kept in check. Rubber doesn't last forever.

 

There are two anchor points, true, but just try to reach them.

There are lots of rubber sections throughout the cooling system, and all have outlasted this metal mid-section, including the two hoses directly clamped to this pipe. I can't see what value this little mid-section provides.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Fair enough. I've removed and reinstalled the oil cooler pipes from my 3SGE with it still in the car and exhaust manifold still on. That was a very hard job but I stuck at it and won.

You do have a point but like I said, a good condition cooling system will keep the pipe in good condition but then the environment I live is less likely to have rust happen from the outside too.

 

Hey, seems like it's been a long time since this post has been created. Does anyone managed to get that pipe out and how? Thank you!