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How to tell fake ebay Garrett GT turbos

6.9K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  IPS Ryan  
#1 ·
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I have quickly compiled this with a GT2871R I have sitting around (Same as GT28RS, just different compressor and bored out intake housing), as I don't want any of you guys get burnt, if there is any mistakes, please let me know and I'll rectify this as soon as possible.

Thank you.
 
#5 ·
see those 2 fins ( cooling fins ?? ) on the center housing ?
thats what i'm talking about

those japanese and SSAC... turbos dont have those 2 fins , they are on evrey t3/t4 i know on both sides of the center

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#8 ·
i heard and read several people blowing them within 10 miles :D

just search the honda board and you'll find out
there is also a website somewhere aggainst these turbos
you can read the expierence of a lot of people who have used them
and most of them blew them as well.

not sure if thats about this exact turbo ... i noticed there are several diffrent fakes on ebay .. the one from SSAC , some Power Motorsport turbo's and XS power ... all look diffrent .

btw , some fakes come with gleud compressor housings as well , i have seen pics on the Inet , of housings that fell apart
 
#10 ·
Old Smokey said:
You get what you pay for. There are reasons these fakes are hundreds of dollars cheaper than the real things. I just hope that nobody on this board has to find out what those reasons are.

yeah, but lets think about it this way... what exactly are you paying for when buying a turbo? what makes one turbo more expenive then another ?

the car parts market seems to inflate prices based on what gains you get and not what the part cost to make. you can have 2 turbos that cost the same to build. one will gain you 50hp and the other will gain you 100hp. you can bet that the 100hp one will be sold for twice as much.


a good example... those fake hks bov's. i bought one for fun (60bucks)and took it apart to compare it with my real HKS (200$). first thing i noticed was that there was nothing inside the HKS that should cost anywhere near 200$. the insides of the real and fake bovs were exactly the same! so sometimes buying a copy over the real thing, can be a smart choice.
 
#11 ·
lagos said:
yeah, but lets think about it this way... what exactly are you paying for when buying a turbo? what makes one turbo more expenive then another ?

the car parts market seems to inflate prices based on what gains you get and not what the part cost to make. you can have 2 turbos that cost the same to build. one will gain you 50hp and the other will gain you 100hp. you can bet that the 100hp one will be sold for twice as much.


a good example... those fake hks bov's. i bought one for fun (60bucks)and took it apart to compare it with my real HKS (200$). first thing i noticed was that there was nothing inside the HKS that should cost anywhere near 200$. the insides of the real and fake bovs were exactly the same! so sometimes buying a copy over the real thing, can be a smart choice.

It is hard to explain if you do not already get it, but I will give it a shot.

There are many factors that can drive the price up on any product. Let us put aside old school supply and demand for the moment and focus on the real vs. fake manufacturers. You are right in that you will pay more for a name brand than a knock-off, but there are reasons for that beyond the mere profit motives (such as cost of materials being the same verses selling price) that you are aware off.

The key here is that you also paying for more than the parts alone. Consider that a legitimate manufacturer such as Garrett will have much more stringent specifications, which require more time and precise work to produce. This means having to pay for better equipment and even better employees. And never forget that you are also paying for the painstaking research and development that goes into making a product. These are all costs that the company must pay for beyond the mere price of materials.

Putting aside R&D, let us go back to quality. Let us (for the sake of argument) say that you did not care if someone just ripped off the designs of another company and began producing their copies. Are you still getting the same product? Well, first you need to ask yourself this: if a company can not be bothered to develop their own product, what makes you think they can be bothered to make sure their copies meet the high specs of the originals? As Turbo Pepe mentioned, they do not. I too have read horror stories about these copies.

Now there are probably certain products where you might be able to save a few dollars and get away with a knockoff, but we are talking about a product in which a mere millimeter of tolerance can mean the difference between blowing up ten miles down the road, or enjoying your turbo for the life of your car. So now, considering all of that, would you rather pay $1200 for a real turbo or $600 for a knockoff?
 
#12 ·
@ Lagos

i have the fake and oem hks bov as well
only thing diffrent is the main valve in it , hks is using a metal valve where the fake is using a cheap plastic valve ( which i allready blew )

but you can make youre own alloy valve in several minutes its just a 50mm valve with a 6.5mm hole in it ;)
 
#14 ·
i guess the only real way to find out would be to try to research and see what type of issues people have had with the fakes. at the ende of the day, name brand or not, its still a turbo.

im sure most of you will agree that we pay out the ass for name brands in the car business. hell even toyot will charge us 5bucks for a bolt that costs .50c, just because its OEM! thats why a lot of the times im skeptical when it comes to name brand VS generic stuff.


Turbo_PePe, the one i have is made of metal . i think more then one company copies them so yours might be diffeerent.
even if it brakes 3 times and you have to replace it, it would still be cheaper then the HKS one, lol. i have also seen a lot of people get defective HKS units, and have problems with them.
 
#15 ·
Akane said:
Turbo PePe, I don't have the 2 fins like you said on my Garrett GT28RS neither :( Is that a t3/t4 or turbonetics thing?

not sure but i noticed all garrett t3/t4's have those fins ... maybe the GT-series dont have them ?? btw .. garrett , turbonetics , ITS , master power ... its all garrett in the end so they have it all ... or they dont

for the bov . i have a Monza SSQV. are there any other copies around ?
 
#16 ·
Turbo_PePe said:
not sure but i noticed all garrett t3/t4's have those fins ... maybe the GT-series dont have them ?? btw .. garrett , turbonetics , ITS , master power ... its all garrett in the end so they have it all ... or they dont

for the bov . i have a Monza SSQV. are there any other copies around ?

Monza was one of the 1st ones to copy the hks. now they have ones on ebay that sell for about 60bucks and look just like the authentic HKS.
 
#18 ·
one of my customer brought sevarl of these i have had 3 of these in at work, 2 of them where stuffed.
1 on an B18 honda made NO Boost didnt last 10 minutes,
2nd was on a RB20 Nissan Skyline, made 5psi of boost didnt last 5minutes,

the problem the bearing cages they used where of a folded design & they came undone, and stuffed both of them with in 10 minutes, little thought & crap design...

Akane & Turbo PePe the Garrett, Turbonetics & the other crap TB03 -T04E Turbos have the finns on the side of the bearing housings (unless it is water cooled) kind of a heat sink type thing.
Where the Garrett Ball Bearing turbos dont and only come out with provisions for water cooling.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for the useful info Phothog, greatly appriciated.
I have too heard a lot of horror stories about those turbos don't last more than 10 mins. I had a talk to my local turbo rebuilder here (who has rebuilt my Garrett GT turbo), he said that those "cheap copies" has a brass/bronze/something/I can't remember bearing, which wears out really quick. He told me a customer rather buy one of those copies than get one from him, a little while later the customer came crawling back to the turbo rebuilder and bought a proper turbo.

Why do things twice?
 
#20 ·
I am running the t3/t4 from SSAC And it has been working great for the last 5,000 miles. I run about 10psi daily and have hit 30psi ,maybe a little more when my wastgate line got a hole in it. I also have a 60-1 that is going the get tested on my brothers rx7. Will see what happens. O yeah forgot to mention I didn't pay for anything. My bother got three turbos, three wastgates, Two mr2 turbo mani's one for the t3/t4, Two rx7 mani's one for a third gen, I don't know how many downpipes, A bov, and my brother also sell the duel rx7 exhaust for them that he made for them. We have not had one complaint about anything that we have sold. From my personal experience the downpipe are very thin and tend to crack.
 
#21 ·
I just got a t3/t4. The compressor housing has Garrett and the A/R cast onto the side and the center section has the two fins but it does not have a plate that says Garrett. There is no plate at all. Does that mean its fake or do some T3/T4's have the plate and some don't?
 
#23 ·
Supply and demand. If they know people want more power, theyre gonna charge more for it because they can. And everyone does so they don't have to wrry about price matching other people. If a company came out making quality parts and didnt take power gains into consideration and sold them all equally and fair, they'de make ALOT ALOT ALOT of money...and then other companies would have to bring their prices down.