MR2 Owners Club Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

Cold Air Intake Heat Sheild

1.6K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  Kupop  
#1 · (Edited)
http://www.scottbarton.net/MR2/HeatSheild

I made a heat sheild for my intake so that it blocks all of the engine bay heat and only gets cold air from the side vent or from under the car.

I used a piece of 16" wide Reflectix as the heat sheild. I cut a hole in the top right for the intake pipe to go through. Then taped a cut up coat hanger so I could bend it into the shape I wanted.

You can get a roll of 16" wide Reflectix for like $15 for a 15' roll at Home Depot. You'll also need a roll of Reflectix tape or tin Duct Tape.

Image


Image


View looking through side vent
Image


Image


Image


-Scott
 
#2 ·
very nice. im always fond of DIY stuff like this. i may pick some up to use in conjunction with my home made heat shield.
 
Save
#6 ·
Not the prettiest, but I bet it definately does serve a purpose. But with a stock engine bay its all function over form, and that is the rule you follow. Nice job. I also like the detailed pics.
 
#7 ·
i was planning on doing something like this, but using a real thin sheet metal. after seeing this, i'll probably through some of the stuff around it or in the heat shield that i make. i'll probably even pick some of that stuff up for my TMIC!! nice job scott (aka sab)!!
 
#9 · (Edited)
:confused:

I thought low pre-compressor intake temperatures have little effect on turbocharged engines.
Nice DIY work :thumbup but it seems like alot of work for no gain.

Perhaps I am wrong? :dontknow:
 
#10 ·
A lot of people on this board say that intake temps don't matter, but Corky Bell's 'Maximum Boost', and A Graham Bell's 'Forced Induction Performance Tuning' both state that lower intake temps are very important.

I also noticed a big difference (.2 seconds 1/4 mile) when using a CAI with my supercharged Grand Prix GTP. I have not done a comparision with my MR2 yet. Maybe sometime this summer.

-Scott
 
#11 ·
sab0276 said:
A lot of people on this board say that intake temps don't matter, but Corky Bell's 'Maximum Boost', and A Graham Bell's 'Forced Induction Performance Tuning' both state that lower intake temps are very important.

I also noticed a big difference (.2 seconds 1/4 mile) when using a CAI with my supercharged Grand Prix GTP. I have not done a comparision with my MR2 yet. Maybe sometime this summer.

-Scott
Do you have a link?

Intake temps are very important, but pre-compressor intake temp is a totaly different thing.

They could be refering to the efficiency of the IC to cool the post-compressor intake charge which would make a huge difference.

Still don't know...but it would be worth clairifying. :dontknow:
 
#12 ·
Scott, the stock BPV will open under certain conditions (lower RPM's, crusing...) to allow air to by-pass (hence the name; by-pass valve) the turbo. This is a less restrictive path and is used to help with fuel economy. It is probably only a fraction of a MPG but it is something... In your case you don't have to worry about the air being unmetered but it is unfiltered.
You can read more here: http://www.jekylhyderacing.com/bov.htm

If you notice Jeff (Jekyl&Hyde) has a filter on his stock BPV.

The hood, hehe... It's sitting in the room yet. It is going to work out fine and I am thinking of putting it on even though it isn't the same color. I am not a fan of having multiple colors on the car and personally would rather the body damage. It seems all you see (around my area at least) are cars with half-a__ kits installed and 5 different colors. It will be a lot easier to have everything painted at once but I would like to get some of the parts on since I have so many already but still need some more.
 
#13 ·
MISTER2 said:
Do you have a link?

Intake temps are very important, but pre-compressor intake temp is a totaly different thing.

They could be refering to the efficiency of the IC to cool the post-compressor intake charge which would make a huge difference.

Still don't know...but it would be worth clairifying. :dontknow:
http://www.scottbarton.net/MR2/AirTemps.html

OK, I did some research to find the equations to calculate compressor outlet temps and intercooler outlet temps. I created a page to figure out the differences would be if you lowered your intake temps closer to ambient temps.
Everyone should take a look at this page and play with the numbers as it has some rather interesting results. It put in some numbers I thought would be about average, and the difference was almost 30*.

It looks like if you have an ineffecient intercooler, lowering the intake temps makes a huge difference, but if you have a highly effecient intercooler, lowering the intake temps doesn't make that much of a difference.

Therefore if you have a stock IC, you should definately do something to control intake temps. If you feel your IC is close to 90% effecient, then you probably don't need to worry.

-Scott
 
#16 ·
I could be wrong, but I think K&N makes a filter that would fit?

And question about the shield. What about engine temps? Personally, I don't have a fan on the engine shroud, so would blocking one of the three ways air gets to my engine bay (assuming it's only through both side vents and through the bottom) cause my engine bay to get to hot?
 
#18 ·
Strat said:
I could be wrong, but I think K&N makes a filter that would fit?

And question about the shield. What about engine temps? Personally, I don't have a fan on the engine shroud, so would blocking one of the three ways air gets to my engine bay (assuming it's only through both side vents and through the bottom) cause my engine bay to get to hot?
The engine gets most of the airflow from beneath the car I believe. It's also not completely closed off. Air can flow under the sheild.

-Scott
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.