So in all the testing, what did the actual tach signals from the diag port look like? If you get IGT signals into the igniter, the ECU output is ok, and the distributor pulses must be good. (If IGT not there, I'd check the distributor wiring and verify pulses (NE,G1, G2 in ref to G) are good.) I've seen many an old distributo where the wires have cracked their insulation, get corroded and don't pass signals to ECU.

Can we also confirm the ignition relay is working, and the 7.5A IG, and 40A AM2 fuses are intact, battery voltage on coil and igniter?

 

Tach signals as in CEL signals? It just flashes once, pauses, flashes four times, then pauses a brief while longer and repeats this same signal. All fuses are good and engine box relays are new.

 

No not the CEL pulse... the pulses from the tach ig tab on the diagnostic connector. I need to look to recall how many pulses per revolution it should be (seem to recall 4). If all fuses/relays good and you've verified voltage to coil, seems the distributor itself is the only thing left. (I don't mean cap/rotor, but the core of the distributor which the engine uses to get timing from.)

 

So I went ahead and verified that the ohms on the distributor pins are within bgb spec, but I have read that that wouldn't necessarily prove that the distributor is still good. Also I went back and checked my ignitor wiring and I'm not sure if the IG black/white wire that supports the igniter and coil are supposed to be grounded together at the chassis or just simply spliced together?

 

NEW UPDATE: well looks like replacing the distributor with another one didn't fix my code 14 issue either. Still dealing with crank no starts despite having a better condition dizzy and still getting voltage where it needs to be 😓 I've already ruled out the ECU and replaced both igniters and ign coil so spark plugs perhaps?

 

At that point, I would lean towards a wiring issue.
Use your dmm and do continuity check on the IGF circuit at the ecu end and the igniter end. At the same time, move the engine harness around from various points to see if you have a break in continuity.

 

NEW UPDATE: code 14 has been cleared but the car still can't start. Issue was that the battery positive wire from the igniter plug didn't have stable continuity and voltage with the battery positive wire on the ign coil plug. I fixed that problem and now there are no more codes present however even still the car turns over but can't start. I know it isn't a fuel issue because I can definitely smell fuel coming out of the combustion chambers when I was inspecting my spark plugs last night.

 

Congrats on finding the issue.
Now for the engine not wanting to run.
Even though you are sure.

Check fuel - use the return hose (and place the hose into a bucket or something so you don’t spill fuel) and crank the engine over to see if you’re getting fuel. Whether you have fuel or not you could always jump the +B and Fp pin in the diagnostic port to have your fuel pump run without the engine running.

Check ignition - remove a spark plug (or all 4) and place the electrodes near the valve cover so the spark could ground to something (screwdriver works too) you’d probably would need someone to start the car so you can visually see if you’re getting spark.

Then continue from there