I'm not sure what information you read, but the calipers are identical and require no special considerations other than to ensure you have the correct side since they are mirrored (right side caliper won't fit left side). Your next question is a little more involved so I will answer it in pieces.
I actually assumed that from this link here:
Mk1 MR2 Rear Brake Upgrade - ATS Racing
So to confirm I can get away with just ordering these, and I do not have to modify anything? I can just use the stock aw11 rear rotor, and pads with the below?:
Rock Auto Right
Rock Auto Left
These calipers are in stock and fit NA/Turbo sw20s for the 1991 year model from the catalog. I see that from 93 on MR2s that were turboed used something else.
Viewing DFC site, it does show that the pistons are deff different (36.5mm VS 42mm) and it makes me worry that proportions are different.
DFC AW11
DFC SW20
Maybe I'm a little weak and searching the forums but no where am I am able to confirm this as a direct bolt on.
Yeah you have to re-use your e-brake hardware with those kinds of kits. Those are just the seals you need and the grease and caps. It doesn't have the needle roller bearing or the other smaller pieces in the caliper. It's hard to rebuild the rears without the Toyota SST
09756-00011. In your situation I would recommend just leaving the inside parts of the calipers alone, replace the main brake seal and dust boot, then reassemble.
Yeah I'm going to figure out a way to save what I have, no intention to throw away anything. I'm going to my local machinist and going to have him tig weld and resurface the piston i ruined and rebuld what I have, but if the above calipers from the SW20 are 100% going to be bolt on using my current rotors , bracket, and pads I would throw those on the car.
I'm not quite certain what you mean exactly by hardware. There's a big nut with a spring on the outside and a little arm to support the e-brake cables which you probably didn't need to touch when you dived into the caliper. You can just leave all that alone unless the seal underneath the armature is leaking.
No. The piston must be twisted in place. I don't know how you feel about doing sketchy **** on brakes, but I'm absolutely not going to endorse it. I think if you want to get on the road asap your best option is going to be to just buy a used caliper for your side and put it on.
You answered my first question with the latter response. I was basically asking if I can use the rebuild caliper without moving the piston hardware over. Sounds like that is a no and I will need to twist back the piston.