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What cams do you plan on running to rev all the way to 12000? Hopefully not stock 20v cams because they are useless past 8400rpm. Not to mention with the added displacement your going to want even larger cams than that.

I would imaging the stock oil pumps going to be a problem past 9000 as well.




Also why do you rev the stock 4age to 9000? Stock cams die at 6600...
 
This 2zzge crank idea seems like a great idea for a freer revving 7a, but this thread is for 9a info. It should be added to the 7a sticky if someone can show the 2zz crank can be fitted w/o much trouble and weighs less.
 
filonin_2 said:
This 2zzge crank idea seems like a great idea for a freer revving 7a, but this thread is for 9a info. It should be added to the 7a sticky if someone can show the 2zz crank can be fitted w/o much trouble and weighs less.
Yeah... you picked up on exactly what I was hinting towards. A 10 lb lighter crank should give a huge boost in acceleration speed... not to mention 2zz cranks can be knife edged.
 
Jared said:
that much lighter.. interesting...

He meant 1zz though as he was talking about swapping from 7a to 1zz for MORE cubes.

No I wasn't.

I was asking why you would put a 2ZZ crank in a 7A block,
which gives you less CC's than a 7A crank in a 7A block.

And the answer was weight.
Something I had not thought of, but is probably a good idea.

What are the accurate weights of the 1ZZ and 2ZZ cranks?
I have a spare 7A crank here from my car,
and will weight that to compare.
 
Ok,

I have been thinking this for a while and am quite keen to see how it would go.

But there seems to be some confusing information about bearing sizes?

What I am trying to find out is if the B E Bearing diamater is the same for a 1ZZ and a 7A Crank, so the 7A rods could be used with machining.

but on the original post its says,

2zz rods will fit on a 1zz crank as both rods have a 51mm big end
Another option is to use the 7afe rods as they are shorter than both the 1zz/2zz rods. All three rods should fit on the 1zz crank shaft

7AFE
Crankshaft Main-journal diameter 48mm
Crankshaft Pin-journal diameter 48.0

2ZZ
Crankshaft Main-journal diameter 48mm
Crankshaft Pin-journal diameter 45mm

1ZZ
Crankshaft Main-journal diameter 48mm
Crankshaft Pin-journal diameter 44mm



So that lists different sizes for the crank pin/BE bearing diameter,
or am I reading it wrong?

Looking for some more accurate information so i dont have to buy a crankshaft just to take some measurements and find out it doesn't work.
 
Why don't you guys just save your money, stop thinking so hard, and buy a $250 5SFE 2200cc engine and have something that will just tear up a 473633839A-GE?
We have put about 81 hours on a 4AGE at endurance road racing speed. Pretty much beat everything out there including 4agZe's, get great MPG (around 9) and actually last.
So we put a 5SFE in a MK1 and made an even faster car since it is lighter than our MK2. You should see what that little stock 5sfe has done to a modified rally Celica All-Trac.
If you really need more power stuff a turbo on the 2200. Everything that fits on the 3SGTE fits on the 5SFE.
Installing a S engine into a MK1 is really a weekend project. max or three days.
 
Bill Strong said:
Why don't you guys just save your money, stop thinking so hard, and buy a $250 5SFE 2200cc engine and have something that will just tear up a 473633839A-GE?

S series? Yuk.

Cannot get them anywhere near the power and reliability of what i have now with the 7AGTE, so why go backwards?
Only one person I know has an S seies that is close and it's ultra high maintence, as it's the Beams head'ed Altezza version at 550hp.

Our next project is underway anyway, just looking for something to fill in the gaps till it's ready to drive.
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=316757
 
ah, did not know you were in New Zealand.
In the racing we do the A-series just does not last long. Great sprint engine. But just wont last. Add power to it and it just instantly goes kaboom.
 
Weird as they are quite common over here,

I co-drove an AE86 with a powerful 4AGE turbo in it in a 6 hour race as part of an enduro season which is 1 x 6Hr, 1x 4Hr and 4 x 3Hr races we run over here, and they hardly have any problems?

My car has run 450hp for over two seasons on almost all factory toyota parts,
Std head gasket, Std Head studs, Std 4GZE pistons,
In fact the only internals that are not genuine Toyota are the Conrods as it's a 7A block and crank.

Cant beat Toyota Quality.
 
Yes Bill, a 5s would be work and work well, but it would also be boring and easily accomplished. The 9a is neither and that's why it's interesting.
 
doubt it.. as already mentioned, it is interesting because it is a freaky "what can be done" mental exercise. I think pick just about ANY newer toyota 4 cyl and swap it in will be better results and much better fuel economy... and only the wiring should be a big deal.
 
If I wasn't living in California, I would build one for sure, and I may still do it one day. I'd like to see someone from Florida/Oregon/Washington put one together though.
 
1 person made 2 of them and sold them a while back, described them as truck engines.


Ive never been a fan of the idea behind the 9age from the beginning, especially the laughable claim of 240 or so hp.


Dont get me wrong, I like hybrid engines but the 9a is a cluster____.
 
I successfully made my engine. The specs are 7afe block with custom rod and pistons. 20v silvertop head with ITBS. 440cc injectors. Megasquirt ECU running fuel and spark. SC12 Supercharger and NST 180mm 4agze crank Pulley . In other words, I successfully made my 7agze 20v. The thing is I?m able to rev this engine to 9000rpm without problems. The rod/stroke ratio is high enough to rev that high. Stock bore!!!!!. 220whp at 8psi. Im really proud with the results. The thing is I really want to break the 2.0L barrier. The only thing that stop my other project it?s the rear oil seal. I?m able to fit the 1zzfe crank in 7a block. The thing is, which rear seal I may use!!!!!!!!!. If any of you can help me with that I will post all my specs of all possible engines in the A- Series line.

By the way, all of the custom parts are from other engines.
 
jony787 said:
I successfully made my engine. The specs are 7afe block with custom rod and pistons. 20v silvertop head with ITBS. 440cc injectors. Megasquirt ECU running fuel and spark. SC12 Supercharger and NST 180mm 4agze crank Pulley . In other words, I successfully made my 7agze 20v. The thing is I?m able to rev this engine to 9000rpm without problems. The rod/stroke ratio is high enough to rev that high. Stock bore!!!!!. 220whp at 8psi. Im really proud with the results. The thing is I really want to break the 2.0L barrier. The only thing that stop my other project it?s the rear oil seal. I?m able to fit the 1zzfe crank in 7a block. The thing is, which rear seal I may use!!!!!!!!!. If any of you can help me with that I will post all my specs of all possible engines in the A- Series line.

By the way, all of the custom parts are from other engines.
I dont want to pick this apart, and I apologize in advance but...

Your claiming 220whp at 8psi on a 1.8L engine that revs to 9000rpms which gives me the impression that you have the engine finished and have had it on the dyno and then you ask which rear main seal to use with the 1zzfe crank in a 7a block which gives me the impression that your engine is not assembled.

Again I apologize if Im wrong but until you post some pictures of the engine and post the dyno chart Im calling BS. Im specifically interested in seeing your intake manifold and SC12 mounting. Are you running single TB or ITBs?

Your 90whp higher than the only known 7agze dyno. In 1.6l form the 20v cams dont make power past 8200rpm, which with the extra .2l of displacement would lower that a bit as well. The SC12 is also not able to flow enough air to support 200whp (hell it has a hard time pumping out 160whp on the 1.6l).
 
7afe rear main seal holder modified to fit 1zzfe crank seal. Any fitter and turner should be able to advise.
Because of the rod angle the 9age is a waste of time and money with the 7afe block, it does not have enough deck height to allow high HP to be used efficiently. There are times when an increase of cc is not going to do the job. You may as well write "exit here on the block" and wait for the piston to come out.
The 7agz/te on the other hand will give you 260-500whp and be reliable.
For sale 1x 1zz crank and flywheel. (Buyer must pickup)
 
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