MR2 Owners Club Forum banner
81 - 100 of 121 Posts
Discussion starter · #81 · (Edited)
PFC install info (and general EMS install info) - Thanks for compiling Dracon!

Apexi Authorized Power Excel Tuners - they use Apexi's FC PRO software to access all the tuning parameters on the POWER FC:




1.) Get the Gen3 PowerFC


2.) Boost Control
A.) To use the boost controll feature in the PFC you can buy the Apex'i boost controll unit for several hundred dollars, or you can use a Haltech boost solenoid. They are much cheaper than the apexi kits and all you have to do is connect two wires from the solenoid to the T-VSV blue plug under the inlet manifold - The T-VSV plug has two wires. The solenoid has two wires. It doesn't matter which way they are connected, it's not polarity dependant. MrSkylighter has done this and confirmed that it works.

B.) Any Manual or Electronic Boost Controller will also work if you want to controll it seperate from the PFC.​



3.) MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor

A.) If you have Datalogit, you can use a GM (Part# 12223861 set scale to 44442 with a offset of 260) or other 3 bar MAP Sensor.

B.) Commander requires a Gen3 MAP:
a.) You can use a Gen3 MAP sensor as they are plug and play - Part# 89420-17050

b.) Or you can also use an Apexi map sensor - Part# 499-X001 There is an option to select the Apexi sensor within the commander.​



4.) MAT (Manifold Air Temp) Sensor

A. Connect the mat sensor to THG & E2 on the ECU harness - pics linked below of the harness.

B. The Commander requires a Gen3 MAT Sensor.​



5.) The IAT (Intake Air Temp) Sensor

A.) You can reuse the IAT sensor that's on your engine lid

B.) The IAT you can splice into the AFM wires #5 & #7 ,or you can use new wires and connect them to THA & E2 on the ECU harness - pics linked below of the harness.​



6.) AFM (Airflow Meter) Removal

A.) AFM not needed​



7.) Ignitor

A.) If you have Datalogit you can use a Gen2 ignitor - You need to lower the Dwell values for the 2 highest RPM settings.

B.) If you don't have Datalogit - You'll need an ignitor from a Gen3 MR2 to be able to rev over about 5K RPM. Luckly, that is the same ignitor(Toyota Part # 89621-26010) found on several Toyota vehicles. Buy one on eBay for about $30 shipped, or new for about $320.​



8.) Repin the ECU Harness for the Gen3 PowerFC. 93+ only requires a few wires to be moved, 91-92 requires 15+. ATS (www.atsracing.net) can also reconfigure the PFC internally to run on any harness.

If you choose to repin - Thanks to mrlaw and his thread: Here




There are 14 wires you need to move around. Most of them you can just open up the plug they are in, insert a paperclip, pull the wire out and install it in the correct plug location. Some pins are of a different size so they wont fit in the 'new' socket - in that case, cut the wire and solder it to the wire in the correct position.

Closed ECU harness plug

Opened ECU harness plug

Insert paperclip like this





Move: A8 to A12 (TPC)

Move: B4 to A8 (EGR)

Move: A12 to A9 (G2)

Move: A13 to A10 (NE)

Move: A17 to B17 (KNK)

Move: B12 to B9 (G1)

Move: B5 to A4 (RSO)

Move: B10 to B30 (FC)

Move: B14 to B10 (G-)

Move: B17 to A20 (PIM)

Move: A25 to B24 (ABS)

Move: B29 to B26 (CF)

Move: B30 to A25 (ATS)

Move: A27 to B14 (FPR)

Move: MAT sensor to B20 (THG) and B21 (E2)

Move: AIT to A19 (THA)



There are 4 wires left over from the Gen2 Loom that are not needed:

STJ, VS, TVIS, THA1, THG​
 
If you are still looking for verification on those st215 diagrams, those were what I used for the gen4 harness I did back in December. We have had the car running with no codes for a few weeks now.....so the fivebob diagrams and pinouts are valid.
 
I am posting here as it seems to be the place where all the ECU gurus are :) installing a Blitz Boost controller, the manual states that two wires to be connected to the ECU:

1. SPEED SIGNAL
2. RPM SIGNAL

Now I assumed SPEED SIGNAL would go to SPD and RPM SIGNAL to NE

I seem to have a RPM reading on the gauge but NO SPEED reading, although the standard speedo is working.

Can anyone thrown any light on if I am using the right pins. Car is a 93+ JDM.


Thanks guys


Graeme
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
Justin311 said:
PLEASE start a new thread. This thread is a sticky with information on ECU wiring, nothing to do with body harnesses and will only confuse the situation. I am going to have a mod delete your posts so if you want the info please copy it over into your new thread.
Guys, lets stick to the topic. No stereo wiring, no boost controller wiring, this is for engine wiring harnesses only. There are appropriate forum for your questions.
 
Hello,
I am doing a 1.5 swap and currently I bought a 93 ECU from a board member forgot about the pin differences because I have a 91T engine with 91 harness. My question is now what is the differences between the 91 vs 93? Performance gain? Right now it is look like repin it will be pretty hard since some pins are larger than the others and some missings. Would it make sense just to get the 91 ECU and save the cursing and yelling trying to repin? Or the performance gain from the 93 ECU make it all worth it.
Thanks
 
91 JDM 3sgte ecu diagram???

Mr Lucky said:
I still have not found a diagram for a 91 JDM 3s-gte ecu. I'm assuming there is a differance from the usdm model?
Hi, is there any diagram of the 91 JDM 3sgte ecu or is it the same as some other diagram that already posted?
 
Hi there i am trying to install a link ecu into my 3sgte st185 but the wiring plugs into the ecu have been rearranged by previous owener.... could someone please give me the colours of all the wires to the st185 pinout diagrams... any help would be great because wires have been removed and also some are not in the places the pinout says they should be.
 
Hey guys, what about the 93 Gen 2 JDM harness conversion. Everyone says it's only a few pins to repin. So I ended up buying one to replace my dying old harness + berk patch but now that I have it I see that the PIM needs to be moved over but that's about it. Is it that simple??

Also, I see a missing FPR pin, which seems important. What now?
 
Bumping thread as I've had to use some of this valuable info and have trouble finding thread. Lots of good data plus tricks which can catch out out if unaware.

jim
 
benckj said:
Bumping thread as I've had to use some of this valuable info and have trouble finding thread. Lots of good data plus tricks which can catch out out if unaware.

jim
Moderators may delete your "bump", and it is not an effective way to find a thread as it will quickly disappear from any "recent" list without continuous bumping which is prohibited for good reason.

The best way to find it is to Subscribe to it. Thread tools, Subscribe. Then you can go to your User Control Panel (User CP) and open your "subscriptions" and find it pretty easily. Plus, when subscribed, posts which may actually contain useful content will be sent to you by email.
 
1990/1991 JDM 3S-GTE pinout...

I have had two JDM 1990 Gen 2 3SGTE MR2s, and I personally wired up an Adaptronic standalone ECU to both of them, so I can verify that the info below, which I used, is definitely correct. I should also mention that the code on my factory ECU was 89661-17321.

Image


E01 = Ground = Brown
No.1 = Injector for cylinder 1 = Red/White
No.2 = Injector for cylinder 2 = White/Blue
STJ = Cold start injector = Green (or non existant)
RSC = Idle air control valve ('close' wire) = Red
HT = Oxygen sensor heater control = Red/White (or non existant)
none
TPC1 = Turbo pressure VSV (factory boost control) = Blue/Orange
none
none
IGF = Igniter feedback = White/Red
G1 = Home position 1 (reluctor pickup in distributor) = Green
NE = Crank angle sensor (reluctor pickup in distributor, not actually on crank) = Black
E02 = Ground = Brown
No.3 = Injector for cylinder 3 = Black/White
No.4 = Injector for cylinder 4 = Green/Yellow
EGR = EGR valve = Red (or non existant)
RSO = Idle air control valve ('open' wire) = Green
none
IGT = Igniter = White
none
TVIS = T-VIS VSV = Green/Black
FC = Circuit opening relay = Green/Red
none
G2 = Home position 2 (reluctor pickup in distributor) = White
E1 = Ground = Brown

VF = To check connector = Red/White
none
OX1 = Main oxygen sensor (pre-cat) = Black
KNK = Knock sensor = Black
THW = Water temp sensor (for ECU only, nothing to do with gauge in cluster) = Red
THA1 = Air temp (inside AFM) = Black
VS = AFM (air flow meter signal) = Yellow/Blue
VC = +5V sensor power source = Red/Blue
G- = Negative reference for reluctor pickups in dizzy = Red
T = To check connector = Orange
OX2 = Sub oxygen sensor (post-cat) = Black
PIM = Turbo pressure sensor (stock MAP sensor) = Blue/Black
IDL = Closed-throttle switch (so ECU knows when to do idle control) = Pink
VTA = TPS (Throttle Position Sensor signal) = White
THG = EGR gas temperature sensor = Black/Yellow (or non existant)
E2 = Sensor Ground = Brown

STA = Starter switch = Red
AC1 = A/C magnetic switch = Black/White
SPD = Vehicle speed sensor = Purple/White
ABS = To ABS ECU (behaves same as 'PSCT' pin) = Green/Yellow
none
FPR = Fuel pump relay = Blue/Red
W = Check Engine Light = Green/White
STP = Brake/Stop light switch = Green/White
EGW = Exhaust temperature = Red (or non existant)
ELS = Electrical load switch (headlight/defogger) = Black
BATT = Constant 12V from battery = White/Red
none
none
none
none
none
none
CCO = To check connector = Pink (or non existant)
PS = From power steering ECU (for idle-up) = Black
PSCT = To power steering ECU (behaves same as 'ABS' pin) = Blue/Yellow
+B = Power from EFI main relay = Black/Yellow
+B1 = Power from EFI main relay = Black/Yellow

Note: I got this info from two official Toyota documents (a repair manual and a coloured wiring diagram), and I verified it by checking the behaviour of various ECU pins with an oscilloscope while running on the stock ECU.

I hope this helps some people!
 
81 - 100 of 121 Posts