I just redid mine and I may have gone overboard slightly. I used Bilstein struts so I didn't have to worry about the actual strut body or the gland nut. You are more than likely going to want to buy (starting from the bottom up): FWIW, when I say Toyota I mean Aaron

Camber Bolts (I bought the largest one so they had the least amount of adjustment).

The bolts that hold the the antilock speed sensor cable out of the way. Order 4 new ones from toyota(about $1 a piece) as both of mine snapped off in my hand when I removed them.

There is a rubber dampner for the front that goes between the spring and the seat. It's about $7 apiece from Toyota. More than likely the 20 year old rubber will fall apart in your hands.

Strut tops. I bought the 94+ as a) I own a 94 b)they are cheaper and c) they offer more caster than the 93 tops.

People will tell you that you don't have to buy the rear tops as they do not tend to wear out. I did as it just made sense to do it while the struts were out of the car.

You may want to get the strut "covers" the little plastic piece that covers the strut in the car. They are relatively cheap and protects the adjusments if you go with adjustable struts. Think they were about $4 a piece.

Dust covers/bump stops

Thats all I can think of right this second there may have been more that I am missing.

 

having it inspected by your local mr2 shop to see what's good n what needs to be replaced. This probably the best advice to give.

bushings are a must, dust shields/boots, front sway bar reinforcement plates from twosrus (our sways rip the chassis), and if you want to beef up anything else, more items come into play.

 

Get the polyurethane bushing set, and it may be a good idea to install some new ball joints while your in there. It'll really tighten up your cars suspension and it will feel great. My ride quality actually improved with the urethane bushings because my stock rubber ones were old and hard as a rock.

 

Im still doing mine. Pretty much changing everything.

I replaced my Strut/springs with BC Coilovers, replaced all Ball Joints and did the inner and Outer Tie Rods.

HUGE DIFFERENCE.

I am going to finish the suspension by getting TwosRUs endlinks, ST Front/Rear sway bars and poly bushings as funds allow.

- amyn

 

Here is a good list on what to replace on a 100k suspension:

-All 4 balljoints
-Inner and outer tie rods (front only)
-Poly bushings

Other wear items that aren't common wear and tear but occasionally go bad:
-Strut tops
-wheel bearing
-rear spherical bearing that the rear tie rod connects to in the hub

 

having it inspected by your local mr2 shop to see what's good n what needs to be replaced. This probably the best advice to give.

Is there a write-up or some advise someone can give to test common wearable suspension components before you pull the suspension apart? I ask because, although my MKII has 140K on the ODO it was driven very conservatively it's whole life. I'm doing the springs and struts and I don't mind doing an overhaul, but I would like to know what parts are bad before needlessly dumping money. Thanks!! :smile:

 

Is there a write-up or some advise someone can give to test common wearable suspension components before you pull the suspension apart? I ask because, although my MKII has 140K on the ODO it was driven very conservatively it's whole life. I'm doing the springs and struts and I don't mind doing an overhaul, but I would like to know what parts are bad before needlessly dumping money. Thanks!! :smile:

The test is that you jack the car up all 4 corners, and pull on the wheel from the 9 / 3 o clock position and 12 / 6 o clock position. All my corners passed this test fine however I saw an immediate and noticeable improvement from changing my balljoints (110k on car). I saw an even bigger improvement from changing my outer/inner tie rods even though mine tested 100%.

I would replace balljoints/tierods no matter what if they've never been replaced and you have over 100k.

 

The test is that you jack the car up all 4 corners, and pull on the wheel from the 9 / 3 o clock position and 12 / 6 o clock position. All my corners passed this test fine however I saw an immediate and noticeable improvement from changing my balljoints (110k on car). I saw an even bigger improvement from changing my outer/inner tie rods even though mine tested 100%.

I would replace balljoints/tierods no matter what if they've never been replaced and you have over 100k.

Thanks for the advice!

 

New/Upgraded Bushings
4x Ball Joints
Steering rack & pinion
4x Tie Rods
New Struts/Strut Tops

 

New/Upgraded Bushings
4x Ball Joints
Steering rack & pinion
4x Tie Rods
New Struts/Strut Tops

Can you all explain this to me like I'm a 5 year old? lol! cuz thats how much I know about suspension.

I see the above says "4x Ball Joints" are they all in the front? are there ball joints in the rear as well?

"4x tie rods" - same thing, all in the front? in the rear?

Maybe someone could circle the parts that I need from these pics?

 

pretty much most of that lol. you really should have a proper mr2 mechanic inspect these before replacing them. they should be able to tell if you should get new ones or not.

 

Go to twosrus.com

Under Steering buy the "MKII MR2 Steering Package" for 165, this includes your outer/inner tie rods for left and right front

Under Suspension buy the Ball Joint Set for 105, this includes all 4 balljoints, 1 per corner

Thats everything you need to replace

If you want you can replace the bushings, under Bushings MK2 MR2 Prothane Urethane Bushings - Total Kit = $85

Now would be a good time to replace the bushings if you want to do that since your going to be taking the suspension apart anyways. I recommend replacing all of these things even if you "test" them and them seem ok. I noticed a huge difference replacing my balljoints on my 100k mr2, and a similar difference replacing my tie rods even though they all tested ok.

 

Steering pic showing inner and outer tie rods

These are the "4x tie rods for the front"