The regulator is mounted on the alternator and comes with the alternator on the NA cars, but I'm almost positive the regulator is completely separate on the SC. Disconnecting the regulator should have absolutely nothing to do with whether or not the car will start or run, although it should cause the three lights to go out (thats how I got my car through inspection). From that I have to assume you disconnected the wrong thing.

 

I wonder if I blew a circuit/fuse or something when the wrench arced the electricity from the alternator to the exhaust manifold. It sparked and then welded itself stuck for and I wasn't going to pull it off like that with my bare hands so I disconnected the negative battery cable and then pulled the wrench out from inbetween the alternator and the exh. manifold. It was pretty hot when I did that.

I figured that from either that or unplugging the regulator would've caused my car to lost all electric power. So could I have blown something when the wrench got stuck and sparked/arched electricity?

Does anyone know what I could check to check this?

 

Check voltage across the battery terminals with the car off (~12.5V) and with the car on (~14V). If it's lower or very weak with the car on, you're not charging.

Yes the voltage regulator is in the trunk. The BGB will likely have diagnostic procedures so you can ensure you've found your culprit before ordering new parts or sourcing used ones here.

 

Check your "engine" 10 fuse. I've blown it out several times.

 

I just checked all the fuses (from all 3 locations) with a test light and they all worked fine. What next? I know the battery is fine cause the mulitmeter says it still has 12.6 volts and I was using the test light on it. Plus I have my boost guage wired to the battery seperate from everything else and the backlight for that works still, while nothing else on the car is getting any power.

 

Sorry... I missed the "not power" and "now power" typos. So the car has no power after shorting out the wiring.

Check your fusible link right off the positive battery terminal. It's fried. This makes perfect sense since your other gauge that isn't running through that line off the positive still works.

 

Sorry... I missed the "not power" and "now power" typos. So the car has no power after shorting out the wiring.

Check your fusible link right off the positive battery terminal. It's fried. This makes perfect sense since your other gauge that isn't running through that line off the positive still works.

lol, now and not, I just can't spell the word 'no' can I...

Anyways, that's a problem. There is no fusible link on the beginning of the positive cable. I bought the car after it had several engine swaps, now it has a 4AGZE in it. The previoius owner did the swap and put the battery in the trunk. (why the trunk, I dunno). So I relocated it up front to balance the weight better, but never put a fusible link in.

I do remember people telling me to put a fuse in the positive cable when I relocated the battery but I argued that I knew other MR2 owners in the area who got by without using them fine. But now I know their purpose and I will pay the price.

What would go next if I don't have that fuse right off of the positive terminal?

thanks for the help.