Say What? to who are you aiming this at?
Can you post up some pics, please? This sounds interesting and rare.

 

Looked at different ways to get more. Just that little extra, Stock engine is 200 horses at the flywheel. Im heading to attain 250 at the rear wheels. Im not chasing the enth degree at all.
Thottle bodies , cams and all that are good BUT l want to keep her with stock internals.
The engine is free reving with the VVTi and man she climbs fast.
I wanted a unit that could still behave that way. Turbo could have been an option but i feel that it would upset the Beams engine so SC was the way.
Positive screw type was an option but the only ones ive seen have them over the exhaust manifold and i didnt like that
In actual fact the way the Beams engine is , it is very simple and unclutered with hoses everywhere. In actual fact it only has 2 x 8 inch vacuum hoses compared with > 20 for the 3SGTE .All the Toyota plumbing doesnt exist with the Beams
When looking at the engine one could also put the screw design b/w the engine and the trunk wall under the inlet manifold
But ive decided on the ROTREX C30-94.

 

The first step is to make some room. The Beams was available for both MR2 and Celica.
The alternator in the MR2 is under the inlet manifold whereas the Celica has it on top where the exhaust manifold is. The celica has the power steering pump in the MR2 alternator position. BTW the MR2 has electronic PS either way i dont have it , really why would you need it anyway ?
Ok therefore buy the brackets for the celica mount and relocate my alternator to that position. Simple and now l have space for the Rotrex
Second build a bracket to hold the SC and a self adjusting idler.
Rotrex mounted.
Third make up pipe work to run from the airbox to the front of the engine under the inlet manifold and to the inlet of the SC.
Then out of the SC to a PWR barrel A/W intercooler then going to the throttle body.
On the inlet line after the air box use a stock 3SGTE oil can.
After the intercooler and the inlet pipe of the SC use a stock 3SGTE BOV
Thats the plumbing of the SC.
Put a radiator in the front nose and the circulation pump behind the bumper, A water bottle will also reside in the engine compartment and a generic plastic one for that stock finish. BTW all the pipes will be finished in flat black powder coat.
The ROTREX has its own oil resevoir and an air oil cooler to keep the temperature down.
That unit will be installed infront of the engine fan in line with the side air intake of the car. Where the 3SGTE has it A/A intercooler and the fill bottle close so it can also benefit from the fan.
The fuel pump will be upgraded to a Walbro 255 and there is no need to change the Fuel regulator as ill also upgrade the fuel injectors to 440 cc from the 340 cc they are currently.
The spark plugs will also be changed to 2 units colder.
Im going to use the 3SGTE stock air temperature sensor and also the Pressure valve, as it will be changed from MAF to MAP.
All the necessary electronics will be run by a stand alone computer the MoTec 400. This can run on all stock Toyota sensors , has the VVTi control and now even a Knock sensor compatible for closed loop operation

This set up is expensive as a 3SGTE could have been put in but i wanted the BEAMS.
So it might not be an option for all the other N/A cars out there but at least its an option given that the blocks are very similar on the N/A engines.
Once the bracket is made ill post all work with many photos.


Now if any one would like to comment please do especially if they feel that l have overlooked something

 

sounds like a fun build, best luck

where are you located? and get some pictures up of that thing

 

i want to see some pics. beams motors look so sexy to me.

 

No pics yet guys its still being pieced together and the OP is in Aussie. I think itll be great man and look forward to your progress. This thread is just to gain some interest and more ideas/suggestions as he advances forward with his project.

 

Servin is correct
Got back the clip i bought that l didnt install to do all the necessary figuring and measuring work. This is cool as my car wont be of the road and i can really desin it to look OEM.
Suggestions are welcomed !

 

With the help of a few members have ordered my Toyota OEM brakets to relocate my alternator to the Celica position. Wiring the alternator is next on the agenda.
So what im really doing is making room that the ROTREX can be put in the alternator position, THIS IS GOOD. Its totally away from the exhaust heat source, so it wont act as a large heat sink
Rotrex is in C30-94
I have to say what a compact unit. Similar size to the alternator. Man it can be simply bolted to the factory alternator bracket. But i wont be doing that instead ill be machining a new bracket so it can simply be copied for anyone else contiplating a SC setup for our N/A engines. BTW since the alternator brackets are all the same reqardless which engine you have
3SFE
3SGE
3SGE BEAMS3SGTE
5SFE
This Rotrex bracket will fit.
Also since there is a lot of space b/w the engine and the trunk a barrel A/W Intercooler can be placed there again away from the heat source

 

I've been looking at the Rotrex for quite some time. I think they're a great little unit. Are you planning on using a clutch pulley like the SC MkIs did? I know rotrax offers it as an option. That would increase tyour gas milage during mild driving and increase the life of the rotrex and reduce the frequency of it's oil changes.

 

No they dont have a clutch pulley. I think the name is Antavon who are making one. It has 2 gears only.This is what is so great about SC any one its belt driven its on all the time . Power is instant and with the ROTREX keeps going up linearly right up to red line. NO DIPS, no instant rush of uncontrolable power. Its just like have an engine double its size. You will loose milage 2 - 3 MPG but thats because your using more fuel. No need for a Clutch
And really reduced milage doesnt come into the equation. MORE POWER = MORE FUEL
The life of the ROTREX is governed by
1. keeping the revs under the quoted maximum thats 10,500 for the shaft on the C30-94
BY DESIGN
2. keeping the oil that supplies the ROTREX below 80 degrees celcius
OIL COOLER
Do those 2 things and your
BTW change oil every 2 years or 50,000 kms

 

Ill post as it goes along but im not here to sell a kit.Just want to share what im doing and then maybe some others could be interested.
Universal is the key...............Easy.............and calculated outcomes

 

I like this idea. Much better than the other SC project that is going on at the moment. His sounds way too complex to work. I'll very interested to see what your final numbers are. Subscribed!

 

^ remember im not for one to push the envelope. There will ALWAYS be someone who will be bigger and better but been there before and will not revisite ever again.
( Stereo ) . It gets so rediculous that all the good work goes to waste as it becomes too dear for anyone to reproduce
I want a reliable car with that little extra.
250 ATW will be fine for me.
Given that if it was easiliy put on another engine it would be more likely to suceed.
Also what everyone will need to understand is all the other items required to make it work. So spending at least $7,000 will be normal.
This is where money talks and ________ walks. But what im doing is that you can build it up slowly saving and then buying bit by bit while enjoying your car.
Nothing more frustrating than seeing your ride off the road for months

 

Here is the best thought. Later on when im finished ,Since you guys cant get to late modle parts because Toyota wont put them on line for you. How easy that i have all the parts for the alternator swap and bracket for the ROTREX. You can buy your own rotrex there

 

hmm... maybe i ought to start saving the celica alternator mounts instead of scrapping them.... hmmm... definitly sounds interesting.

 

Yes i definitely would if i was you. Just remember that the MR2 crank pulley should be put on motor before installed as the celica pulley is 3 V for the power steering and a V 4 is the min i would go for a SC.

 

Are you planning to use an A/C?

 

Yeh buddy its not affected at all.
Have a look at the 2 engines . Gee i dont know how to attatch.
Servin if your reading this can you post your clip of the Celica Red Top.
STD MR2 : inner crank pulley V4 belt runs alternator only. Outer V4 runs A/C and idler.
STD CELICA : inner crank pulley V3 belt runs PSteerinp . Outer V 4 runs A/C , Alternator and idler.
The A/C bolts are the same and also the compressors. Only differece is the outlets , so to be functional the A/C should be a MR2 one or custom pipes need to be made.
Also for your info the water pipe from the warter pump that holds the thermostat are the same on both engines.
Its just on the Celica the idler bracket sits lower than the NR2 one so as to make space for the alternator.
lastley for the conversion the engine bracket ( that long banana thing ) on the MR2 depending on the MR2 engine is different. The last bolt on it mounts to another bracket that holds the engine hook . On the Celica there is no bracket there so that needs to be trimmed for a neat appearance .
So IF you have a MR2 you relocate the alternator to the Celica position. You just get all the OEM stuff to mount it there. Only one more thing the CELICA alternator I believe is different that it has insulation around the back to protect it from the heat of the exhaust . Im not to sure if the alternator mounts are different. But either way ill be taking the guess work out since l have already ordered the Celica alternator as a frind will buy my MR2 one. So once its in my hands ill be able to compare the 2. These are the extra $ we spend in doing research.
It has been suggest some time ago but no one has atempted to do what im doing.
The space is there. And that side of the block is universal . So the one bracket will cover all the engines

 

Here is a thought Medpilot you should design a Crank pulley with the right offset For the OUTER for the Alternator , idler and A/C and make the inner one maybe a V6.

 

I already have one with the outside an 8 rib for the Whipple. If your end result is good, I might consider fabing up a kit for the NA cars similar to yours. I'm just not 100% convinced there will be much advantage over a well tuned turbo kit. I'm open minded though and am willing to see how it turns out.

 

Thats cool. Im not doing it to produce a kit. Its for my car and would gladely share the drawings with you
Really its only for the N/A cars.The way its set up is the outer pulley 4V drives all the OEM stuff as stock. So it has to be positioned the same.
The inner wheel is also V4 but space permitting a bigger number of V's would be great.
The one great thing also is that to go back to factory for emissions which you have is swap back the injectors,ECU,inlet pipe to throttle and take off the belt , Couple of hrs

 

Photobucket.com

 

Thats cool. Im not doing it to produce a kit. Its for my car and would gladely share the drawings with you
Really its only for the N/A cars.The way its set up is the outer pulley 4V drives all the OEM stuff as stock. So it has to be positioned the same.
The inner wheel is also V4 but space permitting a bigger number of V's would be great.
The one great thing also is that to go back to factory for emissions which you have is swap back the injectors,ECU,inlet pipe to throttle and take off the belt , Couple of hrs

It wouldn't be possible to put more ribs on the inner pulley because of the placement needed for the alternator and A/C if you use OEM brackets.
TT

 

 

dont forget you have an axle that runs through there too