For street, go for high caster setting probably 3.5?. This will make the car track better in a straight line.

Do OEM spec for camber and toe:
Camber: -1.5? front, -1.5? rear is a good starting point
Toe: 0.0? toe-in front, 0.2? toe-in rear

You still need some negative camber in the rear to maintain reasonable handling. I would not do zero camber because it will be less stable in corners.
When the suspension heaves on a hard launch, the camber naturally gets a little more negative, so you can probably ease off the maximum OEM spec which is -2.3?. But this is a sports car, not a muscle car, so don't sacrifice the handling too much.

Since you have a lowered suspension, you'll want to keep some toe-in in the rear; the heaving under acceleration will cause slight toe-out to point the tires straighter when you launch at the strip.

For more info, see: http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=277361


My explanations may be a little off, so don't trust me. Defer to Alex W cause he knows his ____!

 

That thread was WAAAAAY over my head

What is the factory range for front caster for 91-92? Perhaps I'll adjust it to the limit of the stock range. I don't want anything crazy. I do however, have my PS pump at full assist (I believe) all the time because I don't think the PS ECU is receiving the correct speed signal through my gen3 harness. Perhaps more caster up front would make high speed stability/steering a little tighter.

 

IF you have aggressive camber, you may want to run 4* of caster. I can't run more than 3.5* because I have manual steering. The higher the caster, the more "stable" the car is but requires more steering effort. But the trade off is also more camber as you turn the wheel.

 

Within the stock adjustment range I don't think you can possibly give it too much caster. For example, the e36 M3 and the late model corvetts both run about 8* of caster STOCK. Within reason, more is better. Better camber gain when you turn the wheel means you need less static camber.

I agree with phatVW that you probably want to go with OEM specs, maybe a little light on the camber from the sounds of it but don't take it all out. I don't know if 0 front toe would be good for you though. A little front toe in gives you better stability, 0, and especially toe out, will make the front end a little more 'darty' especially at speed.

FYI, if you power steering isn't recieving a speed signal it will turn off about 30 seconds into every drive (I currently have no VSS, so thats how mine is right now). The power steering gets its signal from a sensor in the gauge cluster, not the ECU, so if your speedometer works then the power steering should be getting the proper speed signal.

 

My speedometer works because it is cable driven. Perhaps I'm missing what you're saying.. there is a sensor in the cluster that reads the speedo movement AFTER the mechanical cable?

As for Caster... another thing I noticed the first time I put bushings on the front strut rods - I could adjust the front caster so that if you're looking at the front wheel from the side, it would actually sit at the front of the wheel well. Basically there'd be about 1/2" gap between the leading edge of the front tire to the bumper, and 4-5 inches of gap between the rear edge and the body. It looked really bad, symetrically.

Do your wheels sit relatively centered in the wheel well with caster run out to the edge of the factory spec?

How do these settings sound:

Front:
Caster - as close to the limit of factory range without looking like the car's been in an accident and the wheel's pushed forward in the wheel well
Camber - 1.5 degrees
Toe - 1/16"

Rear:
Camber - 1 degree
Toe - 3/16"

Seem reasonable for my setup?

 

Yup, according to the BGB there is a sensor in the cluster that reads off the cable and sends that to the power steering. Strange I know.

Your caster seems a little different than mine. I set mine all the way to the front of the threaded portion of the stock strut rods (with poly bushings) and the wheel is pretty much centered in the wheel well and I think its in the 4-5* range (haven't accurately measured it lately).

Otherwise, those specs look pretty good to me.

 

Alignment done!

I ended up with these specs:

Front:
Camber - -1.0 L/R
Castor - +3.0 L/R
Toe - 1/16

Rear
Camber - -1.0 L/R
Toe - 3/16

Car tracks nice and straight! I do notice that the castor seems to help with the understeer. The front didn't seem to push as much as usual when I blasted through the on-ramp It also makes the steering slightly more stiff. Not detrimentally, but noticeable.

Thanks for the help, guys!

 

http://web.mitsi.com/autocross/faq.html

 

Glad to hear its working well for you :thumbup

 

Alignment done!

I ended up with these specs:

Front:
Camber - -1.0 L/R
Castor - +3.0 L/R
Toe - 1/16

Rear
Camber - -1.0 L/R
Toe - 3/16

Car tracks nice and straight! I do notice that the castor seems to help with the understeer. The front didn't seem to push as much as usual when I blasted through the on-ramp It also makes the steering slightly more stiff. Not detrimentally, but noticeable.

Thanks for the help, guys!

Hi, I was just wondering, where did you go for your alignment to get custom settings like that? My friend goes to a firestone shop, but they will only align it to stock specs. Thanks.

 

Most good alignment shops will do custom specs. I would recomend either calling shops in the phone book asking if they will do custom specs or maybe try to find out what shop your local autocrossers recomend.

 

I work at a dealership and we have an alignment rack, so I can do whatever settings I want without issue.