Hey guys, I just joined this site because I wanted to share how I redid my entire AC system with a focus on how I did the condenser especially since replacement condensers are either too expensive or used quality. This was done over the past year, completed in July, and has been working well during my hour long commutes.
First, I was able to replace my compressor, evaporator, and expansion valve, along with all the seals without any custom work. These can be easily replaced from my experience. However, I ran into some problems with the condenser.
As stated before, condensers are either too expensive or used. I had already ordered everything else, so I committed to doing the condenser custom. So for months, I spent time trying to figure out how to use a universal condenser and adapt that to the mr2.
Here are roughly the steps to how I did that:
Notes:
Feel Free to ask any questions!
First, I was able to replace my compressor, evaporator, and expansion valve, along with all the seals without any custom work. These can be easily replaced from my experience. However, I ran into some problems with the condenser.
As stated before, condensers are either too expensive or used. I had already ordered everything else, so I committed to doing the condenser custom. So for months, I spent time trying to figure out how to use a universal condenser and adapt that to the mr2.
Here are roughly the steps to how I did that:
- Buy a condenser that fits
- Many UAC Condensers will work and I went with one that was a bit smaller than OEM so that the custom lines would fit. Also, I made sure that the opening at the top was for NO. 8 fittings and the opening at the bottom was for NO. 6 fittings which is usually the standard.
- Buy a Universal AC kit
- This usually includes number 10 fittings(not needed), number 8 fittings, number 6 fittings, hoses for all the fittings along with ac hose gaskets. I got mine from vintage air. Also, my build used standard thickness hoses and not reduced barrier ones.
- Buy an AC hose crimper
- There should be some kits online but I only needed the hose cutter and the crimper for number 6 and 8 Standard Thickness fittings.
- Buy a receiver drier
- Since the condenser uses universal fittings, the hose fitting will not fit on the old receiver drier. Therefore, I bought a universal number 6 fitting from Vintage Air.
- Remove the Front Bumper
- Removing the front bumper makes this build a whole lot easier and probably possible. I used Bob Pham's video on youtube to help with this.
- Remove the old Condenser
- This step is pretty straightforward and the biggest difficulty I had was removing the bolts attaching the ac lines which was alleviated after removing the front bumper
- Removing AC Lines and Receiver Drier
- Facing the car from the front, remove the section of the AC line on the left that connects to the condenser which I will call the L.AC Line. What I mean by section is where the individual lines connect to each other. Then remove the AC line on the right that connects to the condenser which I will call the R.AC1 Line.
- Then, remove the reciever drier and the ac line after it which connects to a line that can be accessed on the right side of the frunk compartment. This line will be called R.AC2.
- Mount the condenser with custom Brackets
- I cut out some aluminum T-Shaped brackets from an aluminum panel using a jigsaw. The panel was 1/16th thickness.
- The top of the T attaches to the condenser with two screws and the bottom attaches to the hole towards the front that the radiator top bracket mounts on.
- Mount the reciever drier
- You can mount your receiver drier the same way the oem one was. But I bought a longer screw to accommodate for the fatter receiver drier.
- Brazing universal weld-on fittings to the removed ac lines
- Starting the the L.AC Line on the left side, I cut off the end on a section that did not bend, closest to the condenser, using a pipe cutter. Then I brazed a weld-on number 8 fitting to the end. I believe I used a steel fitting which can handle the heat easier without melting. Afterwards, I applied some JB Weld to be safe. It is necessary to preserve at least the end of the line because it threads onto the rest of the lines correctly
- On the R.AC1 Line on the right side, welding was not necessary to connect from the number 6 end of the condenser to the custom receiver drier. So I replaced the entire line with a number six line.
- As a reminder, the End of the R.AC1 line is the receiver drier, and the exit port of the receiver drier is the R.AC2 line that connects to the rest of the AC System. Because the R.AC2 connects to the rest of the AC System with the right thread, it's threaded end should be preserved with the rest of it being brazed on by a Universal Number 6 fitting that adapts it to the Universal Receiver Drier. Like the L.AC Line, cut the end of the line closest to the condenser at a non bending point. Then, braze the weld-on fitting onto the line. Finally, a little JB Weld to be sure.
- Crimp the hoses to the AC Lines
- For the L.AC Line, you should crimp the number 8 hose onto the weld on fitting and the end of the hose should be crimped onto a number 8 fitting that threads onto the condenser number 8 port.
- For the L.AC2 line, crimp the number 6 hose to your weld-on fitting and the end of the hose should be crimped onto an ac fitting that threads onto the receiver drier.
- A tip before crimping is to cut the hose and test the fitment beforehand. Then mark a straight line from the fitting onto the hose that marks the alignment of the hose to the fitting.
- Attach the new hoses, condenser, and receiver drier all together and torque to spec
- Attach the L.AC line back to the rest of the AC System and attach its new hose end to the condenser. Do the same with all the other lines
- Once Attached and tightened, lower the car(mine was on jack stands) and do standard ac leak tests with a vacuum pump. This should be after everything else including the compressor, evaporator, etc. are replaced or attached. Make sure to flush all the individual ac lines.
- To flush the lines, I just bought some flush solvent and shot it through each line a few times and letting the remaining solvent evaporate. Then I finished with a nitrogen flush where I adapted a flush gun to a hose that connected to the tank's regulator.
- After leak testing, the refrigerant can be added and the AC System can be tested.
Notes:
- This was done on an r12 system with a fitted on r134 conversion
- Be sure to change all the gaskets on the AC Lines and oiling them with refrigerant oil before putting them onto the lines.
- I did the AC Vacuum test and Refigerant fill which included some gauges by following along with a video by chrisfix: How to Properly Recharge Your AC System
- I had to cut a hole into the flat black plastic panel for the R.AC1 hose to pass through
- I tried to avoid the weld-on fittings route, but metric universal hose fittings were out of stock on the size i needed and I'm not even sure they would work.
Feel Free to ask any questions!
