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Discussion Starter #1
I cam across this post on the net, I love the look

Megan coilovers. XXR 521 wheels
front 18x8.5 +30 with a 205/40/18
rear 18x10 +25 with a 225/40/18
Iam assuming he is running 2.5 - 3 camber?









 

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OMG its beautiful. Camber actually appears to be fairly close to 0*. Note i said "appears", i may be wrong. -3 is quite profound. I have -3.8 on my 240sx and a good inch of the outer tread isnt even touching the ground, application 17x9.5 215/40R17. Im more impressed with the tire stretch acquired.
 

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225 on a x10 is too much for me. I think it'd look a helluva lot better with more tire and more camber than stock. 245 + an extra 1-1.5*

I've actually tossed the idea around about picking up a couple of these xxr 521's in 18 x10 +22 and moving my rear asa ar1 17x8 +35's up front with a 15mm spacer. Mesh looks the same, just the rivet locations are slightly different.
 

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i love wheels with the sexy step lip. too bad that 225 on that 10" rim is a total waste. i would've gone with a fender pull or flares with a fat 275 on those wheels!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hmong337 said:
i love wheels with the sexy step lip. too bad that 225 on that 10" rim is a total waste. i would've gone with a fender pull or flares with a fat 275 on those wheels!
i loved the look, i decided to go with the same wheels. I did a 215/35 and 245/35, I have not played with the camber. the stock camber configuration only works for my front (-1), my rear OEM camber (-1.5) rubs with the 245/35 on hard bumps and dips.

you pretty much need a stiff shock like what a coil-over offers, or go with a hard spring and strut.

a 275 on 10 would over power the wheel and would make the wheel look small. also, if my 245/35 is allready rubbing a tad, whats to say you can clear a 255 and wider wheel with out playing with camber?

keep in mind, all MR2's in the rear run an OEM camber of -1.5, whats a little camber more going to do? nothing.
 

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I have no problem with aggressive wheels and moderately stretched tires, but when you can see the inside of the wheel and the tire is peeled back from the bead like that... just doesn't look right. Car looks good overall / from farther away though.
 

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LOL I'm loving the bumper sticker. Is that a Nur-Spec exhaust? Awesome stance but I share Alex W's sentiments. I may have to look for those wheels since a deal I had going on fell through.
 

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Dumb question time since offset calculations escape me...but what would I need to change in the rear wheels so they're NOT sticking out? I was thinking about changing the rear to a 9.5" but then I'm guessing the stretch is needed to clear the fenders so my next thought was changing the offset...would I go to +20 or +30? Also I'm NOT keen on that much stretch, so am I correct in thinking that if the offset/poke is reduced that maybe the tire could be widened to like a 235?
 

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Went and looked at a set of the same wheels today, 10 min from my house no less. None of us could find a stamping showing offset, but I'm guessing I'm dealing with the same specs here, hopefully slightly less poke because I don't like the super stretch/wheel poke look. Unfortunately I couldn't set the car down all the way due to these wheels require the tinyest of lugnuts so I was only able to get a slight visual. Other than only wanting $350 for them and needing to strip them to an all metal finish, I'm trying to convince myself that I'm OK with this much poke on a 500hp car. Opinions?
 

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It's tough to see how much poke they have with the car suspended up on the jack like that as there is some seating and slight inward camber as the suspension settles down with load - not to mention the car at speed. Just ask yourself do you like that look? I think it looks fine.

Looks aside though, I've driven enough of these sorts of setups to know that 'aggressive' wheel/tire setups featuring poke (especially in the static rear) are anything but that on the road as you need to drive the thing like a baby carriage to avoid fender lip/fender liner rubbing. With 500hp to play with, it would be a shame if you're forced to drive your deuce like you're driving through a minefield. Just do your homework w/ regards to fender rolls/pulls & camber adjustment and you should be good.
 

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The car was initially running 16" RSX wheels up front, 15" drag radials out back and my fatass made the rears rub like crazy on bumps to the point where the soft rubber was leaving marks on the paint. I've since swapped on some 17" IS300 wheels that don't rub at all. I like the looks of the black car at the beginning of the post, I'm just not 100% sure if I'm the kind of person to run them if that makes sense...everything in our driveway is lowered and/or has as flush of a fitment as possible, but I've never been a "stance bro" running poke lol. I'm indifferent still...I wanna because staggered 18's for $350 but I don't wanna because I'm 44 vs 24 :)
 

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So it's not just me! I swear these pics loaded fine like a month ago, fortunately I saved them! I've been reloading the page, switching back and forth from mobile to desktop on my browser, signing in and out, etc to no avail.

Anyways, here's the car in the original post.

Edit - found the owner and his for sale thread - http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/98356-Clean-Stanced-1991-MR2-Turbo-Texas-USA
 

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As for an update to my car specifically, I got the wheels this weekend after talking him down to $240 since I couldn't confirm if the tires would work and one wheel is without tire. I can confirm my poke isn't as aggressive as this black car, and while it's the same tire size dimensionally, my rear stretch doesn't look nearly as aggressive for some reason. I'm not rubbing in the back...front is a different story though. I'm on TRD lowering springs with an uneven rake that's been accentuated by these wheels so I need to research a good street/race coilover setup.

Wheels setup is currently:

Front 18x8.5 w/ unknown offset still with a 215/40/18
Rear 18x10 +22 offset with a 225/40/18

I wanna be able to take this to work or whatever without rubbing so I'm torn between going wider/lower sidewall in the back or narrower/lower sidewall in the front. I'm getting ahead of myself though so coilovers will likely need to come first, adjust the heights the way I like it and then adjust tire widths from there since the existing tire sidewalls are toast.
 

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Going out on a limb here, but as mentioned above, I HATE the two tone metal/black wheel look. These wheels need to have the curb marks removed, which means either a professional shop doing aluminum welding, reshaping and polishing ($$$), I Bondo repair the edges and paint them in black (easy)...or go wild and paint them anodized/metallic since our cars ALMOST look like $150k+ Ferraris anyways, yeah ;-)

Anyone reading this any good with Photoshop who can take my visual to the next level :)
 

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