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Discussion Starter · #1 ·



yup, gonna go gte. heres what im thinkin....its a k03 from an audi/vw 1.8L. (Freakin Tiny) Depending on what the stock wastegate spring is, im either gonna change it out to something smaller, or install a spring that pushes in the opposite direction(IE 8Lb spring-5Lb counter spring=3Lbs) Its a 1g Dsm SMIC, with a 12" fan from a mazda.The fansgonna be mounted underneath the IC, with a water sprayer/squirter in between the fan and the HE. Thats just a cheapo ebay bov, but ive modded it so that the plunger wont get stuck on the flange, like ive heard some people complain about. People on the dsm forums have been talking about these boost controllers, so i guess ill give it a shot. its a ball and spring type, and it looks like itll work. Im thinkin 4 pounds at first, just to have a little extra, but stay in one peice.

Heres my question...what sort of management would be safe. ive heard that 4 pounds isnt enough to justify megasquirt, so should i look into an fmu, or can i cheat, by upping base fuel pressure and clicking the afm back a tad? if i get greedy, which i prolly will, and blow the engine, im gonna keep the same setup, but rebuild with gze internals in a 7 rib block, and then i will look into an ems.

what do you guys think?
 

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looks good so far, are you going to make a custom mani or do a remote mount?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
mk1noob said:
looks good so far, are you going to make a custom mani or do a remote mount?
im gonna just braze the ko flange to the stock mani. i know how to weld, and i can get nirod for pretty cheap through work, so ill braze it, and if it ends up cracking, ill go for a log style manifold.
 

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fatalmk1 said:
Depending on what the stock wastegate spring is, im either gonna change it out to something smaller, or install a spring that pushes in the opposite direction(IE 8Lb spring-5Lb counter spring=3Lbs)
+99
That is an aweosme idea!!! I though about turbocharging my 5SFE with a CT-26 but run really low boost to keep it reliable but couldn't figure out any way to change the wastegate spring to something so low. Nice idea!
Good luck with your project; looks like it's gonna multiply the fun-factor tenfold!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
papo! was hoping to get a response from you! how does extending the rod bring down the spring tension?


Dirtjump9 said:
+99
That is an aweosme idea!!! I though about turbocharging my 5SFE with a CT-26 but run really low boost to keep it reliable but couldn't figure out any way to change the wastegate spring to something so low. Nice idea!
Good luck with your project; looks like it's gonna multiply the fun-factor tenfold!
ya,actually it wasnt my idea, jamesl gave me that one, but still an AWESOME idea.
 

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Because the mounting point of the rod itself is what sets the actual tension, pull on the rod itself and you'll see what I'm trying to say. If you leave the rod disconnected there is no pressure at all so if you make the rod longer you minimize that pressure even with the same spring in there. Hope that makes sense.
 

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If you're only goint to run 4 psi the stock fueling system should be enough, I ran up to 12 psi with my setup and all I did was use GZE injectors and turned the wheel on the AFM to lean it out off boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
really?!! thats cool. yours were stock internals right?

i figured out that i can get an autometer af gauge from work for real cheap. what should i expect the ratio to be at about 5 pounds?
 

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i wouldn't waste my money on autometer af gauge, buy a real wideband..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
rino said:
i wouldn't waste my money on autometer af gauge, buy a real wideband..
hmm, ok. ill start searching. also, where is everyone getting their oil feed? im also gonna need a coolant feed. im ripping out the ac, and i think the heat too. can i just reuse the old heater core feed line as the coolant line?
 

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fatalmk1 said:
hmm, ok. ill start searching. also, where is everyone getting their oil feed? im also gonna need a coolant feed. im ripping out the ac, and i think the heat too. can i just reuse the old heater core feed line as the coolant line?
Definitely grab a wideband no doubt, I'm partial to the Innovate line and the LC-1 is a great unit for a good price. We do sell them so you could call me biased, but I sell what I sell because it works.

Oil feed. Use the oil pressure port on the back of the block, just below the distributor. It's a 1/8 BSP thread IIRC, 1/8 NPT will almost fit but it's 1 thread off, don't do it! From there there are a few ways to go about it but here's how I did it. You'll want a 1/8 BSP male to -4 AN male adapter, you can special order these at a hydraulic supply shop that you probably have local to you (Parker Store for example). They have them in straight out, 45 degree, 90 degree, etc. I used a 45 degree and it cleared everything best. Bring that out with a -4 hose to a T junction. You'll need to figure out a T junction to have -4 AN fittings for your hoses on two ends, and a 1/8 BSP female on one side for the oil pressure sending unit. Then mount that somewhere, run your hoses; input, output, and sending unit, and you're good to go.

I think I've got some pics of where I mounted my T on my MR2 page at the link in my sig. I haven't updated that page in way too long, but it shoudl be good for this.
 
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