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Discussion Starter #1
The 91 I picked up has damaged fenders due to a rough life. I’ve brought it back from the dead and now it’s time for cosmetics. Grabbed a set of flares cuz I wasn’t a fan of the body kit options but definitely want to go wider. Flares are roughly 2 inches wider than OE but don’t know for sure due to damage. I’ll be cutting about 2 inches off the fender to make them flush with flares which have been lined up and drilled just need to throw in my rivnuts and get some decent hardware so they can be removed. Plain rivets on bodywork is a bad idea LOL. I have the OE staggered 14 inch rims on now and want to get some decent wheels. I get all my tires for free but don’t want my speedometer to be too far off. Was thinking of doing 17 inch wheels. Already got coil overs that can go lower and polyurethane bushings/mounts. Everything that can be adjustable is and I didn’t go cheap but want it lookin good asap. With a 2 inch flare on all 4 corners what size wheel should I be looking for? Depth and offset. I won’t use any spacers over a quarter inch to avoid bearing damage. Obviously don’t want to rub and totally okay with staying staggered with wider wheels in the rear. Gonna run -.5 camber in front with -1.5 to -2 in the rear. Just don’t want to rub anywhere and wondering if you guys know what sizes to get. OE calipers but drilled and slotted rotors with hawk brake pads. 91 2.2L. Idk if 2.0L turbo came with larger brakes. Thanks for any input
 

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Wheel spacers don't damage wheel bearings at least not more so than a comparably low offset wheels would. IE, a +42 wheel with a 20mm spacer is no different than a +22 wheel.

If the flares are really 2" per side and you want to completly fill them, you are looking at 9.5 to 10" wide fronts and 10.5-11" wide rears. Maybe more. Even so, the offsets will need to be pretty low. I'm running a 9" in front @ +22 offset, and even that won't clear most coilovers (custom top mounts and coilover housings in my case to make it work). In the rear, a 10.5" will clear the strut with about a +30 offset maximum. If you go wider than that, plan on a lower offset.

Going wider without throwing off the speedo at least a little is tough. A 275/40-17 or 315/35-17 are both relatively common sizes, but both are pretty large in diameter.

The turbo came with 2 piston front calipers, but the overall size was the same until 93+. Then the turbo got somewhat larger brakes. This is USA specific info... the rest of the world got the larger brakes on everything, and never got the single piston "NA brakes" that the US got.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you so much for the reply. After I get them fastened I’ll make some real measurements and get back to you. I don’t mind swapping out bearings once a year or so but you’re right on offset being the same wear and tear as a spacer. I just don’t trust them lol! Can’t decide on 16s or 17s. Did you get your wheels from private seller or online? Lookin for a good distributor
 

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The effects of low(ish) offset wheels on the bearings are pretty overblown in my experience. As I mentioned above, I'm at about +18f and +26r, and my bearings have been going strong for years, including quite a few track days and autocrosses. Maybe if you get down into 0 offset or negative offsets you start to see more issues.

I know a lot of people are uncomfortable with spacers, but there's really nothing wrong with them. Just get some quality extended studs (ARPs for me) and you will be fine. I run 5mm front and 12mm rear spacers with my track wheels. No problems pulling 1.2-1.3 lateral g, bouncing off of curbing on the track, etc.

I have bought most of my wheels online. Where to get them really depends on who sells what you are looking for. Sometimes there are good deals to be had from the "PM me for price" sellers on the forums, sometimes going through a website is the best option.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bearings once a year was an exaggeration but seriously I got the whole job down to about 35-45min. This is my first time puttin on flares so it’s a totally different game than a OE setup with just suspension. I’m excited to do it but don’t know how to go about getting something wide enough to fill the flare and not rub in the front and back. Also wanting to upgrade front brakes so a larger caliper throw another variable into the mix. Really appreciate the insight!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I’ve been doing aftermarket repair for just over 10 years but we don’t deal with body work or tires. Started my career doing tires but that was a long time ago and we didn’t sell rims.
 

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The hardest part about putting wider wheels and tires on an MR2 and not having them rub is keeping the overall tire diameter as small as possible.

Toyo makes the R1R in a 245/35-17 which would be a great front size (23.8" diameter), but they don't really have anything that would match up with it in the rear. 275/40-17 is about the only rear option, and that's 25.6" diameter, which is a pretty big difference. Mostly a visual thing, but also might put a big rake on the car that could complicate suspension tuning.

245/40-17 isn't too bad of a size to fit up front (I have 225/45-17's right now, which is actually larger in diameter). I'm thinking for next year of pairing a 245/40-17 (24.7") with a 285/30-18 (24.8"). It's a bit more stagger than I would choose if I had an option, but in terms of diameter it's about the best option out there in the current high end street tire lineup.

But the bottom line is, there isn't really a bolt on, guaranteed no rub option for what you are trying to do. Odds are some hammering of inner areas of the wheel well, playing with wheel spacers and alignment, etc, are all going to be required.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I figured as much unfortunately just trying to pick everyone’s brain for help. 2 inch wider flares and cutting the extra off underneath with leaving a little for support posts so they don’t disfigure too much while driving I’m lookin at 17x8 in front and 17x9 in rear. Offset is what I’m curious about tbh as I can always throw small spacers on the get the “flush” look. Not trying to tuck or slam it anymore than it already is. Idk what OE offset is and if there’s one thing I can’t decide on it’s wheels. I’m like my wife when it comes to deciding dinner-.-
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Lookin at 215/40 17 in front and 245/35 17 in rear. I’m just askin for tips, issues y’all had to go thru, and just help. I really appreciate it. Like if you guys tried one of these sizes and had issues or whatever.
 

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I currently have the following setup on stock mr2 with rolled fenders & coilovers

Front
17x8 +32 offset, with 215/40 17, -1 camber

17x9 +32 offset, with 245/35 17, -2 camber

Its always a good idea to check tire availability before buying new or used wheels, I had a hard time finding 245/35 17 where I live, had to go with Toyo, the only one that had that size available. Tire inventory changes every year with demand, unless you buy cheap tires from china.

Use this site for fitment

https://www.willtheyfit.com
 

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If you are putting 2" flares on it go for at least 9" / 10" wheels. 8/9 fits on a stock body no problem. Even if you put the same tire sizes on them the tires will perform better on wider wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay decided to replace damaged fenders and NOT use flares. Still trying to roll the fenders. Soooooo 17x8 +32 in front and 17x9 +32 in rear with the 60.1mm minimum center bore. Now the options for the +32 offset is very limited versus 30 and 35. Having a massive brain fart with the use of spacers. If I get little 3mm spacers I can run a +35 offset and it will be the same as a +32? Or am I misunderstanding something. Leaning to RPF1s, Motegi, or rotiform.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just want as wide as possible in rear with just rolling fenders on OE tire total diameter. And also as wide as possible with rolled fenders in the front with no wheel well covers. No rubbing at all even at full turn. I’m lowered on coils but not “slammed” it’s functional. -1 camber in front max and -2 in rear max. Probably going to do -.5 and -1.5 at the end of the day.
 

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Maybe start a new thread since this one is about fitment w/ flares?

Spacers decrease offset (from the centerline), which means adding 3mm to your 8" +32 wheels lowers the ET to +29.

Rears may fender rub some w/ 9" +32 considering 235/40 on 9" +35 is about the limit before scrubbing (depending on tire brand).

Up front, coils actually give you less lateral clearance and more North/South clearance versus stock suspension. 8" w/ coils usually needs mid +20s, maybe even a tad lower to clear the coil-spring. Not sure if they still make 7mm spacers, but I'd start with that. Some tire shops don't mind you fitting them before purchase. If you use over 5mm spacers, you may need to press in longer wheels studs to get at least (a safe) 6 turns on the lug.

Out of your wheel picks, the RPF1 has the best quality (Japanese), it's very light, has a lot of available widths/offsets and looks pretty mean w/ a lowered chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
JUst wanted to state I opted not to do flares and essentially end the thread and give a direction I’m headed in for anyone who cares. I appreciate everyone thoughts and assistance. I’m sure there are threads for fitment without flares and will read them or post there if I come up with new questions.
 
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