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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When i drive like a old lady, i get no problems (keeping under 4k rpm, and driving really slow), but when I try to boost, I think it's the turbos I hear trying to spool, but I get violent jerky shaking like someone's behind me and shaking me like if they're tryin to wake me up from a fire lol.

RPM and speed seems fine, til 4-5k rpm and it shakes hard, and won't go beyond 5k rpm. and when I let off sometimes I get a weird feint grumbling noise.
any ideas ?

things to add.

perfect idle, everything is perfect under 4k rpm's
no engine codes
sticks at 4.5 rpm when revved in neutral.

add

unplugged the egr valve line and it revs cleanly all through the rpm in neutral, in drive still shakes not as bad though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
changed spark plug wires (toyota oem), coil, igniter, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs (denso platinum), ecm (oem)

how would i go about checkin for boost leaks?
 

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is the turbo actually spooling? have you checked to make sure it's not the actual turbo that has gone bad? check your fuel cut as well...
 

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When that happened... did you smell any gasoline?

If so, I think your problem lies on the AFM or BOV... and maybe clogged cat.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
for some reason i left the egr valve vacuum hose unpluged went to wal-mart, on the way back i punched it, and it boosted fine, and yes i smelled a lot of gas earlier, not now though....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
few things i did today, i dunno if they had any help, put in a rubber seal for the bpv, installed oem spark plug wires including a new wire for the coil to cap of the distributor, unplugged the egr valve vacuum line...
 

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Then it might be your EGR valve is clogged.. but kinda weird... anyway.. try this... unplug the electric connector on EGR valve... and see if it does the same.

Coz i don't understand if you unplugged the vacuum hose and left the hose hanging without capping it then you would actually have vacuum leak... and if your problem goes away with vacuum leak.. then the problem is not your EGR... that means you can unplug any vacuum hose that will induce vacuum leak to make your car run better... then the problem is still the AFM...
 

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my logic... if the problem goes away with vacuum leak.. then your car is definitely running too lean... (due to bad AFM maybe) and since vacuum leak cause less actual air than metered air therefore running richer than it should... and therefore these two balance the effect and cancel out each other.

And obviously the violent shaking is due to the knock response.... makes sense now?
 
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