[azmr2]

I recently bought their set-up (partly) but I didn't want to download RealPlayer so I don't know if their video covers this. They talk about replacing the valve seals without taking the head off. Anyone done this yet? I would think that the valves would not drop very far if you make sure the piston is TDC on that cylinder? Or are we talking compressed air? TIA

 

[Bill Strong]

remove the cams, take the plugs out, set the cylinders where all 4 are even, fill the cylinder with compressed air, or rope. Remove the valve keepers with the tool, then remove the spring and retainer. Reach in with the seal tool and pull the seal out. Be carefull not to scratch the lifter wall.

 

[azmr2]

Thanks Bill. Hangin' Rope? I suspect it's a little smaller? It looks like your head is off in the pic? They say you can do it in the car, has anyone done it yet?

 

[mental105]

when i worked for GM one of the techs had one of the air hose deals. screw it in the spark plug hole use compressed air make sure the piston is TDC. the idea is that the compressed air in the chamber will hold the valves up while you remove the keepers. it workes great on General Motors Crap. don't see why it wouldn't work on our superior engines.

 

[Bill Strong]

GM crap eh?? considering Yamaha designed and built the dohc engines for Toyota

funny.

 

[toytech]

Just make sure you don't grab the wrong tool and accidentally drop a valve in the cylinder if you use compressed air. If the rope gets stuck in the cylinder, you can squirt a bunch of lighter fluid in thehole, and burn the rope to ash.

 

[Bill Strong]

I find the iron chain works very well

 

[MACE]

If you have the cams out and try compressed air, the piston will end up at BDC. Don't bother trying to find TDC, just let the air push it down to it's minimum energy state.

My compression tester has a hose that can be hooked up to a standard air fitting. If you are in the market for a compression tester you might look for that feature.

Mack, looks like you get to be the first to actually do this instead of being an internet expert. :lol:

 

[toytech]

I did it on my st165, a camry I fixed to sell and a couple of customers cars too. Great tool.

 

[azmr2]

If you have the cams out and try compressed air, the piston will end up at BDC. Don't bother trying to find TDC, just let the air push it down to it's minimum energy state.

My compression tester has a hose that can be hooked up to a standard air fitting. If you are in the market for a compression tester you might look for that feature.

Mack, looks like you get to be the first to actually do this instead of being an internet expert. :lol:

You mean people actually own these cars? I thought this was a "virtual" site? I've already got a compression tester with the fitting you're speaking of. I wondered if that would work and it looks like it will. Thanks. What kind of psi would I use? I don't want to blow a hole in my oil pan! (lol). Also, I think just to be safe I'm going to try to keep the piston at TDC (leave the plugs in, etc.)---I have a feeling the Devil car is just itching to have the compression hose leak or something and eat a couple of valves Thanks for the input everyone. I'll give it a go and let you know.
Edit: Just got an e mail from Randy at Toyotool (www.toyotool.com) and he said he is lowering the price of the tool! Cool, now I can afford to get the head fixture and organizer bins.

 

[azmr2]

Update: Finally had a chance to take out the valve seals on another head and realized that there is no way in hell that you can do that with the head in the car. There just isn't enough room behind the head and the firewall to get the pliers on the seal to pull them out. Also, you need a lot of leverage to get the seals out with the pliers. I actually ended up putting the spare head on the floor to get enough leverage to pull the seals off the guides. Here is a pic of the valves out of the spare head. Notice that one of the intake valves did not know that it was in a "non interference" motor. Also, the pic doesn't show it that well, but there is a whole lot of carbon on the back sides of the exhaust valves (see valve on far right, which had not been wire brushed yet). What do shops use to remove that? I also have a sneaking suspicion that the machine shop doesn't actually do a "valve job" but simply cleans everything up?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/azmr2/bentvalve.jpg