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kcp00420 said:
Subscribe! Wow, the worlds first Audi powered MR2, F'n amazing!
WHat? You must have missed Mike_H's Audi ABZ (4.0L V8) mark2

search the v8 section of this forum, go back a few years
 

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Discussion Starter #62
kcp00420 said:
Subscribe! Wow, the worlds first Audi powered MR2, F'n amazing!
A little behind KC, there have been a few v8 mr2's built. Only one other stretched chassis mk2 though (as far as I know, there has been a stretched mk1 and mk3) and I believe JustinWidebody isn't finished his yet either.
 

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widebodystarlet said:
A little behind KC, there have been a few v8 mr2's built. Only one other stretched chassis mk2 though (as far as I know, there has been a stretched mk1 and mk3) and I believe JustinWidebody isn't finished his yet either.
Lol, I know there have been many v8 mr2's, but this is the first Audi powered one I've known about. I am a bit of a noob as far as v8 deuces :p
 

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Discussion Starter #65
kcp00420 said:
Lol, I know there have been many v8 mr2's, but this is the first Audi powered one I've known about. I am a bit of a noob as far as v8 deuces :p
The audi V8 is chosen because it is short, making life easier for those of us crazy enough to try and put one in an mr2.
 

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Torque vs. Power

Texas_Ace said:
HP is just a calculation of torque.
Actually, torque is in units of work, e.g. ft-lbs.

Power is work per unit time, e.g. ft-lbs/minute, or the rate at which the work is done.
 

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james_98188 said:
Actually, torque is in units of work, e.g. ft-lbs.

Power is work per unit time, e.g. ft-lbs/minute, or the rate at which the work is done.
Right thats what I said, just with less words.

Tourqe = ft/lb, or the actual work that is being done.

HP = how fast you are putting that work to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
I haven't done any work on this in about a month now. I'm right in the middle of my third year of University for Physics and the workload can be overwhelming. The current state is I'm waiting on an ecu from the shop. They were supposed to send it to me over a month ago. Here is a fun picture of new parts:

 

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widebodystarlet said:
I haven't done any work on this in about a month now. I'm right in the middle of my third year of University for Physics and the workload can be overwhelming.
OK. I was suspicious, but now I am certain: you are crazy.

That is going to be some sort of car when you are done. The only reason to do such a thing is to have done it: a comparable midengined car can be had turnkey for the sort of money you will need to pour into this project.

But that is some very clean fabrication. Well done.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
kevinMR2 said:
a comparable midengined car can be had turnkey for the sort of money you will need to pour into this project.

But that is some very clean fabrication. Well done.
I can't think of a longitudinal mid rear v8 that I can get for less than $5k, this project is on a student budget :thumbup

Thanks, I'm trying to make it look as neat as possible once complete.
 

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Pretty good so far.

Im a full time audi mechanic at 2Bennett Audimotive in Davis, Ca. Those engines are pretty reliable with a few small exceptions. They all leak oil. Replace valve cover and cam chain tensioner gasket sets.

The oil filter/cooler housing will at some point dump all your coolant out. Replace the seals and a small plastic tube behind it. Replacing the tube with a metal one would be great.

If you need the parts or any engine / audi specific advice, please feel free to contact me.

-Tyler
 

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kevinMR2 said:
The only reason to do such a thing is to have done it: a comparable midengined car can be had turnkey for the sort of money you will need to pour into this project.
Yeah, I'd like to know what mid engine car you are thinking of. Surely not a v8 fiero?
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Slow progress due to school. I'll keep this brief and add a photo or two.

I found a nice set of rims for the car, I'll need to get two more tires and also paint the rims gloss black. I also took the torque converter off the engine in preparation for flywheel/clutch/bearings test fit.

I've been thinking a lot about the quarter panels and what I will be doing there to bring it back to life, nothing inspiring yet but I have a few ideas on how to make it pretty. I'm as well considering changing the venting in the front of the car so the air comes in through the bumper and rad and out through the frunk hood. This will allow me to upgrade to a larger rad, better fans, eliminate some piping, and hopefully streamline the cooling system to accommodate the v8. Have already researched and chosen larger front/rear calipers, rotors. Final decision has been a headlight conversion, most likely custom; and I have a few never-done-before ideas in mind :)

I know some will complain about the decision to stray from the oem mr2 design but my reasoning is that with the wheelbase stretch the car might look like a "funny mr2" and I can't have that. If i want it to look like an mr2 I'll buy another mr2. So instead I'd rather have people see the car and go "whoa, what is that? it looks cool". Hence a lot of things will be changed, but hopefully the end result is as awe-inspiring as I can imagine :)

Bought these used. The previous owner liked my build so much he threw me a wicked deal on them. 17x8.5 +41 and 17x10 +41. The offset is kinda high but the widths kinda make up for that fact. No stretch here either. They came with a good set of 235/40r17 Nexxens that I'll be putting on the front. I'm not sure what size to go with on the rear, I'm thinking 275/40r17 or 255/40r17 (I'm using these to aid my decision http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html , audi transmission is calculated for 205/60r15) Anyways here are the rims:


 

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Discussion Starter #78
Didn't feel like doing any school work today because it's over ten degrees outside, so I put my engine in instead. Literally took like 15min, slid in place like a baby. This is the first test fit of the engine, the frame is done (save for the tension rod brackets). Looks like my measurements and calculations all came out well as there is still plenty of room for the fuel filler neck in front of the block. Next I'll test fit the transmission and get to modifying my crossmember.



 

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Discussion Starter #79
Clearances:
The engine still has to tilt backwards a little bit, but as it sits I should have about 2" from the top of the covers to the slanted firewall:


Enough room for the filler neck once I tilt the block back and install the transmission. I'll need some serious dampeners to keep the engine from squishing the pipe though as I believe I only left 1" clearance between the block and neck:


Just need space for hoses over here probably, nothing really on this side though :)


Finally, the oil pan ground clearance with reference to the original frame. Hard to tell in this picture but I have lots of room.
 
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