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Discussion Starter #1
I am sure everyone has had the old 2's idle reverberate at stop lights. I have had this problem with my 88, 86, and 85 n/a models. Im sure it is something simple. Can anyone help me????? Also, What is a good way to get some better heat for the cold winters here in Georgia....? I appreciate it.... jerry.
 

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What do mean reverberate? RPMs rise and fall? If this is your problem, you need a good coolant bleed and also check the TPS for proper adjustment. Have you checked the heater valve in the frunk to see if it is fully opening? You may want to flush the heater core. The best way I have found to do this is to disconnect the inlet and outlet lines to the core(in the frunk) and alternate running water thru the hoses.
 

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I agree with what Paul (86AW11) said. I just "adjusted" my TPS and ended up with the up down idle. I was having a new exhaust put on so I left it that way. After I had the new exhaust put on the idle was fine, so it must have been something in the TPS adjustment.
 

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can holes in the muffler cause this problem? my 85 starts idling round 2k and stuters at lights around 800-1400 after like 10 min of running.
 

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Did anyone say that you'd be running hot if you had *some* air in the coolant system? (no)
Did you say you have idle surge? (yes)
Did you get advice that says your idle surge is cause by *some* air in the coolant system? (yes)

Why argue? Burp your Baby. :)
 

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just going by what the burping FAQ said about it :p my car is also having problems starting sometimes :( and the radiator light comes on then goes off grrrrr
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what about the bleeding process

I read that a good method is to park the car on a steep hill with the elevation raised at the engine. Run the car and take the rad cap off and then proceed to putting water in it and letting it flow out as well.. Is this a good method of bleeding????? Or do I have to go to each of the bleeder valves and do the process instructed in the Haynes manuals..? I appreciate the tips... Jerry (Atlanta)
 

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If the coolant doesn't help it, it may also be the TPS or possibly the cold start ISV

Or a few other things
 

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Also I found it doesn't always work just bleeding it while its running. There are still places air can get trapped. Rev the RMP's up just a little and hold it there for a few seconds. Then go back and try bleeding it again. This method helped me push the air to the bleed valves.

~C.C.~
 

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I don't raise or lower any part of the car. Simply open both front bleed valves and the valve on the t-stat housing. Pour coolant in filler until I get a good stream from the t-stat valve. Close t-stat valve and continue filling until the level in the front hoses is even with the level of the filler inlet. Start car, let it warm until the t-stat opens and top off a little bit. No problems, my heater works fantastic, very steady idle and temp needle stays planted a little below half after the motor is fully warmed up. :)
 

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Paul, you are a lucky chum :) I follow that proceedure as well from the BGB, but there always seems to be some bubbles floating around somewhere for a while (may be a thermostat issue in my case). I like Norms (ITA) idea of squeezing hoses! I just wondered why everyone talks about raising the rear when it's the front where they come out at.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I raised the rear of the vehicle making the filler hole act as the bleeder valve instead of going through the process of bleeding it via bleeder valve. of course, I am wrong. I appreciate the help, I will try the real way of bleedin the water system. Also, my heater sucks, the vehicle runs cold in general. I think I need to find a better thermostat with a higher temp.....? jerry
 
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