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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Figured I should start posting some of my build that I have been working on. I'm going from an 89 SC to 4th Gen 3SGTE, using a 1993 JDM E153 tranny and two SC axles. Desired completion destination Oct 21, 2015. :smile: Yep I'm bringing this 80's car into the 21st century!

I'm looking for constructive criticism, opinions, and more eyes to catch my blunders. :)

This started in Feb when I got the engine and dug the AW11 out of the snow.


Hello
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Time to get that battery to the frunk.

New battery tray (1.5lbs):


This looks like a good spot:


Crimped and soldered the connections and used a 125A fuse to protect the 4G wire:



Not bad:
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Flywheel and clutch

Thanks Prime Performance!
Flywheel (11.5lbs):


4th Gen 3SGTE, originally with an AWD auto tranny. Note the top left corner of the black bell housing shield plate. I found out afterward that I need the shield plate that matches to the E153.


Flywheel on with blue locktight and torqued to factory specs, using new bolts from toyota:


New yota throw bearing installed:


New Exedy OEM type clutch:


My clutch alignment tool, 17mm socket:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Since I didn't have the correct bell housing shield, there was a large hole that you could see the flywheel and starter gear through, just behind the turbo.

Needed to make a cover plate:


Still needs to be painted:


Installed:
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Block Heater
Yep in the wild prairies of Canada we need electrical heat to warm up the coolant before starting the car on a cold winter's day. Much easier on the engine this way.

Need to get a freeze plug (actually a casting plug) out. This was a pain. Don't let it fall into the block!


Now finding the correct block heater was a mess, there isn't one listed for any 3sgte (even the yota part number for the 91-93 turbo has been discontinued) , this made for a few trips to the parts store. On this engine there is very little space between the freeze plug opening and the cylinder wall. But I think this one should work. Part number 3100098.




I bought 3 different ones that looked like this that were spec'd for 4A, 3S, and 5S motors but none of them would fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
E153 Tranny Work

New reman Denso starter is in, new boot on the clutch fork, and new rubber sleeve on the shift shaft:


Old driver side axle seal, pry that sucker out:


New seal to go in:


Installed:


Old passenger side axle seal also needs to be replaced:


Installed:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Carrier Bearing

Need to clean out the mounting holes for the axle carrier bearing and add the locating dowels.



New carrier bearing and dust cover:


New bearing going onto the axle the easy way with a cheap press:


Don't forget to replace this bolt that holds the bearing in place if the rubber tip is broken off. Old (top), new (bottom):


I still need to source some locating brackets. PM me if you have any!
These will do for now I hope:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Water Neck

4th Gen on the left, 3rd Gen on the right. You could use the 4th gen neck, you would just need to add a coolant fill cap to the system somewhere b/c the caldina has the fill cap on the radiator.


Transferred the caldina water temp sensor to the 3rd gen neck and added a MK1 temp sensor to wire directly to my stock water temp gauge. Picked up some electrical connectors from the local pick-n-pull from a tercel and corolla.


Neck installed and MK1 oil pressure sender installed for my stock oil press gauge. I needed to remove a bit of material from one of the water neck mounting nuts to make this pressure sender fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Added a lift hook from a tercel, I'm not sure where there factory caldina front lift hook is supposed to be, but this should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Speed Sensor

I decided to convert from electrical to mechanical speedo to match my existing cluster. Maybe I will convert the MK1 cluster to electronic in the future but not now.

Factory electronic speed sensor from 1993 JDM E153:


Interestingly the SC E51 tranny uses much of the same speed senor parts as the turbo E153. The only difference is the gear that runs off the diff because the diffs are different. My plan was to re-use the E51 speed sensor and only purchase the new drive gear (33403-19406) but I couldn't get the sleeve (33404-17010) out of the E51 and I didn't want to break it so I pick up a new sleeve too. The speedo cable 90 degree adapter from the E51 was re-used (far left of picture).


Electric vs Mechanical:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Time to get that battery to the frunk.


Crimped and soldered the connections and used a 125A fuse to protect the 4G wire:

Hmm, here is my thoughts on the fuse:
The 4AWG cable is rated for between 120 and 150 amps max continuous based on the temp rating of the cable insulation and the number of cables packaged together (1 in this case). This is why I chose the 125A fuse, the fuse is to protect the wire in case it overheats, or worse if it somehow comes in contact with the car chassis.

Now the 125A fuse (by Littlefuse Startco) is rated at about 175A for 1000 seconds, about 250A for 10 seconds, about 300A for 5 seconds, and about 450A for 1 second. This is from the chart here:

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/bolt-down-fuses/littelfuse_mega_datasheet.pdf

This fuse should only be used during starting.
Sound legit? or maybe I will need a 150A fuse?

The 15lbs Odyssey PC680 is rated for 520A for 5 seconds, but only 170 CCA. So I might have to swap it out for a traditional 30lbs lead acid battery for the winter. My old Motomaster Eliminator was rated at 570 CCA @ 0 degrees F. :smile:
 

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Fuse Selection

I do love this build... Makes me want to buy an AW11 just for giggles.

Your fuse selection could work, I was a little skeptical.
Keep a spare onboard just in case. Cheap insurance.
Keep in mind those short transient bursts of high current take their toll on fuses.
 

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Hmm, here is my thoughts on the fuse:
The 4AWG cable is rated for between 120 and 150 amps max continuous based on the temp rating of the cable insulation and the number of cables packaged together (1 in this case). This is why I chose the 125A fuse, the fuse is to protect the wire in case it overheats, or worse if it somehow comes in contact with the car chassis.

Now the 125A fuse (by Littlefuse Startco) is rated at about 175A for 1000 seconds, about 250A for 10 seconds, about 300A for 5 seconds, and about 450A for 1 second. This is from the chart here:

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/bolt-down-fuses/littelfuse_mega_datasheet.pdf

This fuse should only be used during starting.
Sound legit? or maybe I will need a 150A fuse?

The 15lbs Odyssey PC680 is rated for 520A for 5 seconds, but only 170 CCA. So I might have to swap it out for a traditional 30lbs lead acid battery for the winter. My old Motomaster Eliminator was rated at 570 CCA @ 0 degrees F. :smile:
Looks like a very nice build.

I am not as cold here, but use the same battery on my MK1.5 (front mounted like yours). It is fine for 3 years in winter and then begins to struggle on the 4th (when temps are below 15F). I bet you are OK for the first two years at cold temps and then the linear decay of these dry cells might catch up to you in cold weather.

Not sure if you are familiar with LWFW on the 3sgte/E153, but you might want to consider a stock flywheel to avoid possible gear rattle issues. Thread on it here:
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=195786&page=9&highlight=gear+rattle

Worth a read since you could still easily change it out if you decided to.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Looks like a very nice build.

I am not as cold here, but use the same battery on my MK1.5 (front mounted like yours). It is fine for 3 years in winter and then begins to struggle on the 4th (when temps are below 15F). I bet you are OK for the first two years at cold temps and then the linear decay of these dry cells might catch up to you in cold weather.

Not sure if you are familiar with LWFW on the 3sgte/E153, but you might want to consider a stock flywheel to avoid possible gear rattle issues. Thread on it here:
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=195786&page=9&highlight=gear+rattle

Worth a read since you could still easily change it out if you decided to.
Hmm, maybe I will store the drycell battery inside for the winter then and swap over to a typical lead acid.

Thanks for the LWFW link. Were you running an unsprung clutch at the time? I thought the clutch springs were designed to take care of the tranny unselected gear rattle.

This awesome 90's Exedy video talks about the tranny noise from free spinning gears:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Td15fzkTfo4
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I do love this build... Makes me want to buy an AW11 just for giggles.

Your fuse selection could work, I was a little skeptical.
Keep a spare onboard just in case. Cheap insurance.
Keep in mind those short transient bursts of high current take their toll on fuses.
Yeah I will be carrying a spare spare fuse and 13mm socket to change it just in case.


Thanks for the comments guys. It's not a pretty looking swap, paint and polishing will come later. I am going for simplicity, function, weight, and reliability right now. I am trying to use as much OEM type parts as possible for highest reliability too.
"Parts left off weigh nothing, cost nothing, and don't cause service problems"
 

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Hmm, maybe I will store the drycell battery inside for the winter then and swap over to a typical lead acid.

Thanks for the LWFW link. Were you running an unsprung clutch at the time? I thought the clutch springs were designed to take care of the tranny unselected gear rattle.

This awesome 90's Exedy video talks about the tranny noise from free spinning gears:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Td15fzkTfo4
The car started with a full face disc sprung clutch and LWFW. It really had almost zero gear rattle. Only the slightest amount at idle in neutral, but you had to know what you were listen for.

The the trans was rebuilt (by a top notch shop in LA, CA) and it received a new 6-puck sprung clutch and same LWFW. Tons of gear rattle. Enough that if you were in 4th gear and high rpm and let off quickly (around 5K rpm) it would actually pop out of gear. (I increased detent gear select spring pressure for 3/4th gear to fix that).

The a brand new E153 LSD unit from Toyota was installed with same clutch/FW from previous setup. Still tons of gear rattle and still have 4th gear occasional popout (proving it was not the rebuilt trans that had an issue since the brand new one did too). Used same gear select detent spring fix for this.

The clutch finally wore out and replaced with 6 puck unsprung with a stock FW. About 60-70% of the gear rattle went away. I am guess a sprung hub clutch might have got rid of the rest of it. In my case it seems the LWFW was the biggest contributor, but a 6-puck unsprung certainly has left some gear rattle present.

I will be keeping the stock FW for sure from now on and my next clutch will likely be a Clutchmasters FX350 which is a sprung full face disc but has holding power almost as much as many 6-pucks. I am only in the 320whp range so do not need the fairly high holding capacity of the ATS Stage 4 (basically a CM 6-puck unsprung setup that can hold nearly 500whp) that is in my car currently.
 
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