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Discussion Starter #1
I am upgrading to ct20b and I am having a hell of a time with the removal of the stock turbo.


1. Is it possible to remove the turbo without removing the downpipe? I can't seem to reach the turbo stay bracket bolt with the downpipe in place.

2. I have the stock exhaust system, I unbolted the 3 downpipe to b-pipe nuts but I can't push the b-pipe back out of the way to disconnect the downpipe, does the b-pipe have to be removed completely?

3. When I unbolted the 4 studs to the exhaust manifold and the 6 studs to the downpipe (or is it the other way around, I am so tired :( ) some of the studs came out completely along with the nut and some only the nut came off, is that normal? What does threading of the studs mean? I keep reading about them and have no idea what it means.

As you can probably guess I am very tired. I installed an intercooler yesterday and am trying to finish the ct20b today, but unfortunately it doesn't look like its going to happen :(. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Once you get that tired its time to put the wrenches down and quit for the night. After some rest everything will go much smoother in the morning....at least thats how it always works out for me.
I may be wrong, but i do think you have to take the downpipe in order to get the turbo out. I just pulled mine to imstall the SB 46trim and I took out the aftermarket dp I had in there, along with disconnecting the first section of my TKO exhaust which would equivilate your b-pipe. If you disconnect the end that connects to the muffler you can swing it out of the way enough to remove the cat/dp.
I dont see it being possible....or at least very easy to remove the turbo w/o dropping the dp. Its right in the way of some pretty critical bolts.
Some of my studs came out nut and all its just from time and "welding" together from the heat and rust/corrosion. You can by new ones or simply clean them up, coat with anti-sieze and tighten the stud back in place with the nut still attached.
 

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we had to take out the downpipe to get to my stocker...yes its a huge pain in the ass to do all of this. It took us 2 full days just to get all of it off...wow, what a huge huge pain :thumbdown

also, its fine if the studs come out of the head, just screw them back in and your fine...you should be thanking jesus that you havent broken any off in your head...iv still got 1 thats broken *tear*
 

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Pull the elbow, cat and b-pipe and you'll have a much easier time. It also helps to remove the oil filter and loosen the oil cooler, as recommended by KOR. No biggie on the studs coming out, you should double nut them to separate the nuts if you plan to reuse them and torque properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok, I am going to give it another shot when I get off work tonight, three quick questions:

1. Is it really necessary to remove the engine mount as stated in the tutorial? Turb Removal tutorial Can I just follow KO's instruction on removing the downpipe instead?

2. Where are the two bolts on step 10 of the KO instruction? I can't seem to find them anywhere under my car. KO downpipe article



3. Someone mentioned that I do not have to remove the b-pipe, I can just unbolt it from the downpipe and muffler and swing it out of the way, so this can be done without removing the muffler part of the exhaust system correct?

Thanks again for everyone's help and input. :thumbup
 

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1. No it is not necessary, if you are talking about a motor mount.
2. I cant find instructions anywhere on KO's site so I dont know what you are talking about.
3. Yes, they are correct.
 

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Follow KO's instructions

Leave the mount alone and don't touch the hyd clutch either. Are you using PB Blaster and letting it soak for a day? And you'll need the big socket for the pressure oil line from the block to the turbo. And probably a LONG extension and a universal. I took off the cat with the 2 mounting brackets still attached. Find the nut next tot he oil cooler and loosen it, it makes a difference. Did I mention using PB Blaster? I took out the turbo with the exhaust manifold - heavy but saves some work.
Use hi temp antisieze when putting everything back together. You have all the new gaskets, right? And while you have all this off, make sure you replace the HFH! And replace the dip stick tube O-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you everyone for all your help. I finally was able to pull the turbo. I had to remove the downpipe, but I did not need to separate the downpipe from the elbow, just remove them as one piece. From there all the bolts for the oil feed line and the turbo stay bracket is very easy to reach. Now its time for me to clean up all the nasty oily muds that is all over the turbo oil feed line.
 
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