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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all

In the middle of putting the manifold/turbo/downpipe back into the car after replacing gaskets and resurfacing the manifold.

When placing the new oem oil line gasket I stared at the BGB photo to determine the right orientation and installed it. The gasket is asymmetric but can fit in two .

I have a decently steady drip now coming from the area, though it’s torqued to spec. It’s possible that the line has cracked from my manipulation of putting it all back in, but I wanted to make sure I put the gasket in correctly before taking things apart.

820B76BC-D6CE-4E1D-83A1-1BB053A35FC7.jpeg
820B76BC-D6CE-4E1D-83A1-1BB053A35FC7.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!

It sorta helps?

It looks like it is torn on the top half which is the part that is asymmetric. But it looks like the hot side does taper off rather than have the flat facing the hot side... leading me to think mine is backwards (I have the flat, non tapered side facing the hot side).

I looked at my old CT26 and the old gasket there also has the flat side on the cold side (what I assume is what you have going on). I have no idea if I removed and replaced that when removing the oil line however. I shoulda checked it before!

Here is the pic from the BGB
73745


If I can get one or two more confirmations, that would be awesome
 

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Based on the BGB that flat tab should face the hot side which means in the image of the metal gasket the face you can see should face the turbo centre section and the face you can't see should touch the drain pipe flange.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's what I thought. So It looks I have installed it correctly (if you click on my original photo, it will enlarge). I guess that is good, but means the leak is not as simple as a reversed gasket.
 

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That's what I thought. So It looks I have installed it correctly (if you click on my original photo, it will enlarge). I guess that is good, but means the leak is not as simple as a reversed gasket.
I did see you had it the right way. Just wanted to clarify what I was seeing in the BGB.
I don't like to do this but would some high temp sealant on the gasket help?

I guess the logical thing to do is determine why it's leaking. Are the surfaces on the turbo and drain pipe flange clean and flat? Is the gasket clean and flat? Does the embossed sections of the gasket still have some dimension when you remove it? As in still have the embossed part in it? Are the nuts torqued correctly? I know it's only a small number being M6 but if you get an uneven clamping force or too loose then it won't seal properly.
 

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1990 MR2 Turbo
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Is the metal oil feed/return pipe so delicate that everyone here seems concerned they've ruined theirs? There are, I think, three or four of us having this same issue at the same time on this site and I keep seeing mention of it possibly having been broken. I've changed the turbos on several 3S-GTEs in Celicas at least half a dozen times and once before in my own MR2 and I've never been particularly careful with them. I really hope mine isn't broken because finding a replacement may prove difficult today.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
bushings and upgrade to the spherical bearings, they're
I did see you had it the right way. Just wanted to clarify what I was seeing in the BGB.
I don't like to do this but would some high temp sealant on the gasket help?

I guess the logical thing to do is determine why it's leaking. Are the surfaces on the turbo and drain pipe flange clean and flat? Is the gasket clean and flat? Does the embossed sections of the gasket still have some dimension when you remove it? As in still have the embossed part in it? Are the nuts torqued correctly? I know it's only a small number being M6 but if you get an uneven clamping force or too loose then it won't seal properly.
The surfaces are both clean. The studs, nuts, gasket are all new and OEM. I had to loosely install the lines outside of the car onto the turbo, then install it in the car in order to get everything to line up. But it seemed straight and torqued the nuts down to spec. It was tough lining the banjo bolt and the flange at the turbo up, so I wonder if it isn't clamped down straight or something (after first getting the banjo bolt in, then tightening the flange).


I will say that it is clear that only the stud that is closer to the oil feed (smaller) tube has oil dripping on it. The other 1/2 of the flange and that stud is 100% dry. I did have trouble tightening that side down initially (the stud was spinning, so I removed and replaced it, while still in the car) so it is possible it isn't tight. However, the stud went in fine and so did the nut over it (and torqued down).

Is the metal oil feed/return pipe so delicate that everyone here seems concerned they've ruined theirs? There are, I think, three or four of us having this same issue at the same time on this site and I keep seeing mention of it possibly having been broken. I've changed the turbos on several 3S-GTEs in Celicas at least half a dozen times and once before in my own MR2 and I've never been particularly careful with them. I really hope mine isn't broken because finding a replacement may prove difficult today.
It seems to be mentioned quite a bit so I guess it is a possibility. It was heavy lifting the manifold/turbo/downpipe/oil lines from outside the car and dropping it into the engine bay. I wasn't rough but if fragile enough its possible it got snagged or creased just enough to wear and cause a leak? I also had to give some (gently applied) force to get the banjo bolt in first then go back and tighten the flange at the turbo... maybe that did it?

I'm going to try and take a closer look and report back
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well - I loosened then re-tightened the nut on the flange and sprayed it down with break cleaner.

So far no leaks which is nice. After it cools down, I've put my finger up by the flange and along the pipes without any oil residue... so far so good at the moment. However, when one leak is fixed, another one springs up elsewhere it seems! 🤪
 

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Are these little gaskets really oriented in some specific way? I noted while reassembling that lot of the gaskets look like they could go on either way. I just assumed it didn't matter which way the gasket fit. The one I can remember vividly trying to decide if it mattered which way I put it was the oil cooler gasket that leads to the hose from hell. I just chose a random orientation as I couldn't see any possible way it would matter on that one as there were no tabs and it was completely symmetrical. However the raised/sunk area around the cutout could be facing the wrong way I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Are these little gaskets really oriented in some specific way? I noted while reassembling that lot of the gaskets look like they could go on either way. I just assumed it didn't matter which way the gasket fit. The one I can remember vividly trying to decide if it mattered which way I put it was the oil cooler gasket that leads to the hose from hell. I just chose a random orientation as I couldn't see any possible way it would matter on that one as there were no tabs and it was completely symmetrical. However the raised/sunk area around the cutout could be facing the wrong way I suppose.
I assume so but not entirely sure. I feel like this one had a picture and some text in the BGB saying to install it a certain way. The others for sure did not have an orientation that I could discern. When I replaced the exhaust to turbo gasket, it clearly had a 'sidedness' to it, but no instructions in regards to orientation.. for that it probably doesn't matter but I feel like if I'm putting it in, I want to do it the right way (or at least not the wrong way). For some of these gasket I try to rationalize one orientation vs the other but its probably a guess at that point
 

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1990 MR2 Turbo
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Just to follow up on this, I, too, bought the metal gasket from Prime MR2 and mine leaked, as well. I pulled the turbo back out and replaced the gasket with the plant fiber gasket that came with my CT-21 and the leak stopped. I also changed nearly every other component of the oil/feed system. But, I'm leak free now.
 
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