tubular suspension
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nice work!! I guess you are going to attach the sway bars to the arms? That is what I was planning on doing. Those look pretty stout. What thickness are the tabs? 3/16"??? I gather from the radius on the tubes that they are pretty thick as well. 1/8" or thicker??
Yes,
I plan for direct attachment of sway bars. The arms are probably over designed, but at this point I prefer the conservative approach. The tube is 1 1/4" by .188". The tabs are 3/16". If I were doing it again, I would have all tabs except the rear (forward mount) be 1/8". Notice the profile differs from stock in height (1"diff.) - hopefully to lower the chassis. We'll see how it works.
I plan for direct attachment of sway bars. The arms are probably over designed, but at this point I prefer the conservative approach. The tube is 1 1/4" by .188". The tabs are 3/16". If I were doing it again, I would have all tabs except the rear (forward mount) be 1/8". Notice the profile differs from stock in height (1"diff.) - hopefully to lower the chassis. We'll see how it works.
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9,278 Posts
My 2 cents. I have never raced or built a race car. Remember that you have an old chassis that maybe a little weakened. If you use all heim joints you are putting a lot more stress on the mounting points for the suspension. Even if you use a full cage, the mounting points are still old and not reinforced. I am just giving food for thought that was passed to me when I inquired about pillowball nounts for struts and heimjointed strut bars. The bushings, even stiff ones, help absorb a lot of the energy that otherwise would go straight to the mounting points.
I devoted a moment's thought to mounting points. I decided to go with stock initially, keeping a close eye on them.
My hope is that taking slop out of the suspension will limit the movement to up-and-down motion. I have noticed that stock suspension parts (rear mostly) get twisted, bent, and downright distorted which I would attribute to the rubber parts. I hope I'm right or at least find out before any failure.
My hope is that taking slop out of the suspension will limit the movement to up-and-down motion. I have noticed that stock suspension parts (rear mostly) get twisted, bent, and downright distorted which I would attribute to the rubber parts. I hope I'm right or at least find out before any failure.
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8,115 Posts
On that note. Usually a car such as this that is raced is inspected regularly. If any issues come up, you get to reinforce. Having said that, I have built and raced a number of cars old and new. These kind of things come up sometimes.scottgas said:
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42,296 Posts
how about a few sets 
Scottgas,
Have you ever had a after-market car door mirror that vibrated to the point you couldn't see out of it; then when you tighten it to the door it seems to become one-with-the-door. Well, that's the way I feel about the rubber parts on the stock suspension. I could be completely off track ( no pun intended), but I am going to find out - hopefully this spring.
Have you ever had a after-market car door mirror that vibrated to the point you couldn't see out of it; then when you tighten it to the door it seems to become one-with-the-door. Well, that's the way I feel about the rubber parts on the stock suspension. I could be completely off track ( no pun intended), but I am going to find out - hopefully this spring.
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42,296 Posts
how do they match the stock for weight? are they lighter or heavier?
Squelch,
First of all, you don't want me to weld anything. So far I have welded tabs for fiberglass fenders, seat supports, and dash mounts.
I had a fabricator do the welding. I provided the dimensions. Unfortunately, it was a costly venture.
Furthermore, I need to find out that they will work as intended.
We can talk more about it when we talk about the transaxle help I need. Hopefully soon!
First of all, you don't want me to weld anything. So far I have welded tabs for fiberglass fenders, seat supports, and dash mounts.
I had a fabricator do the welding. I provided the dimensions. Unfortunately, it was a costly venture.
Furthermore, I need to find out that they will work as intended.
We can talk more about it when we talk about the transaxle help I need. Hopefully soon!
Bill,
The rear arms weigh about the same at 4.5lb. The fab'd front weighs approx. 5lb. whereas the stock front is approx. 3.5lb. I suspect I could have used lighter gauge steel in all aspects of the fab, but I just wasn't comfortable with weight savings before I even knew how they would perform.
The rear arms weigh about the same at 4.5lb. The fab'd front weighs approx. 5lb. whereas the stock front is approx. 3.5lb. I suspect I could have used lighter gauge steel in all aspects of the fab, but I just wasn't comfortable with weight savings before I even knew how they would perform.
I though that was you.. Who else would be in Frankfurt a prepping an MR-2.EProd#23 said:
I've got a STACK of transaxles around, at least 8 C-5X's and a few C-56, and some C-60's and a couple of Renault UN1's fom another 4 cylinder turbo car...
Welding isn't tough, let me know if you need stuff done in the future...
Squelch,
I wonder if I might stop by on a Saturday for some transaxle talk. I have one C-52 out of an '88, one with a broken housing mounting point (still in the '88 doner car; and one from an '89 GTS. I would like to get two useable trans from that group or talk about what you have.
I wonder if I might stop by on a Saturday for some transaxle talk. I have one C-52 out of an '88, one with a broken housing mounting point (still in the '88 doner car; and one from an '89 GTS. I would like to get two useable trans from that group or talk about what you have.
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