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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone here made control arms for a MK1. I think I will for my 20v track car. I am likely going to use 1" to 1.25" dom .120" wall with heim joints. If I do this I will build a jig for repeatability.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
nice work!! I guess you are going to attach the sway bars to the arms? That is what I was planning on doing. Those look pretty stout. What thickness are the tabs? 3/16"??? I gather from the radius on the tubes that they are pretty thick as well. 1/8" or thicker??
 

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Yes,

I plan for direct attachment of sway bars. The arms are probably over designed, but at this point I prefer the conservative approach. The tube is 1 1/4" by .188". The tabs are 3/16". If I were doing it again, I would have all tabs except the rear (forward mount) be 1/8". Notice the profile differs from stock in height (1"diff.) - hopefully to lower the chassis. We'll see how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
nice I thing I am going to use pins and heims instead of the ball joints and bushings. Did you fab some different forward links too?
 

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Yes,

Everything is heim-jointed. I purchased 20 heim joints (8 for the sway bars alone). The front supports required fabrication of brackets to bolt thru the heim joints, instead of the threaded rod thru a rubber grommett.
 

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My 2 cents. I have never raced or built a race car. Remember that you have an old chassis that maybe a little weakened. If you use all heim joints you are putting a lot more stress on the mounting points for the suspension. Even if you use a full cage, the mounting points are still old and not reinforced. I am just giving food for thought that was passed to me when I inquired about pillowball nounts for struts and heimjointed strut bars. The bushings, even stiff ones, help absorb a lot of the energy that otherwise would go straight to the mounting points.
 

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I devoted a moment's thought to mounting points. I decided to go with stock initially, keeping a close eye on them.
My hope is that taking slop out of the suspension will limit the movement to up-and-down motion. I have noticed that stock suspension parts (rear mostly) get twisted, bent, and downright distorted which I would attribute to the rubber parts. I hope I'm right or at least find out before any failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
scottgas said:
My 2 cents. I have never raced or built a race car. Remember that you have an old chassis that maybe a little weakened. If you use all heim joints you are putting a lot more stress on the mounting points for the suspension. Even if you use a full cage, the mounting points are still old and not reinforced. I am just giving food for thought that was passed to me when I inquired about pillowball nounts for struts and heimjointed strut bars. The bushings, even stiff ones, help absorb a lot of the energy that otherwise would go straight to the mounting points.
On that note. Usually a car such as this that is raced is inspected regularly. If any issues come up, you get to reinforce. Having said that, I have built and raced a number of cars old and new. These kind of things come up sometimes.
 

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Yeh, I was just passing on advice passed on to me. Would hait to someone get hurt b/c of a broken suspension mount.
 

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Usually the rear parts that get bent are the strut rods. The control arms are iron for some reason and seem to be really strong. I would think by removing all the "slop" that there would be more damage and bending to everything involved.
 

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Nice arms.. any chance of making another set and selling them to someone about 10 miles away ?
 

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Scottgas,

Have you ever had a after-market car door mirror that vibrated to the point you couldn't see out of it; then when you tighten it to the door it seems to become one-with-the-door. Well, that's the way I feel about the rubber parts on the stock suspension. I could be completely off track ( no pun intended), but I am going to find out - hopefully this spring.
 

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Squelch,

First of all, you don't want me to weld anything. So far I have welded tabs for fiberglass fenders, seat supports, and dash mounts.
I had a fabricator do the welding. I provided the dimensions. Unfortunately, it was a costly venture.
Furthermore, I need to find out that they will work as intended.
We can talk more about it when we talk about the transaxle help I need. Hopefully soon!
 

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Bill,

The rear arms weigh about the same at 4.5lb. The fab'd front weighs approx. 5lb. whereas the stock front is approx. 3.5lb. I suspect I could have used lighter gauge steel in all aspects of the fab, but I just wasn't comfortable with weight savings before I even knew how they would perform.
 

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EProd#23 said:
Squelch,

First of all, you don't want me to weld anything. So far I have welded tabs for fiberglass fenders, seat supports, and dash mounts.
We can talk more about it when we talk about the transaxle help I need. Hopefully soon!
I though that was you.. Who else would be in Frankfurt a prepping an MR-2.
I've got a STACK of transaxles around, at least 8 C-5X's and a few C-56, and some C-60's and a couple of Renault UN1's fom another 4 cylinder turbo car...

Welding isn't tough, let me know if you need stuff done in the future...
 

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Squelch,

I wonder if I might stop by on a Saturday for some transaxle talk. I have one C-52 out of an '88, one with a broken housing mounting point (still in the '88 doner car; and one from an '89 GTS. I would like to get two useable trans from that group or talk about what you have.
 
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