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You are new to the site so I will kind of give you a break but we have a very very intellegent board member on here that generously spreads his knowledge just out of pure generosity so we all can mod our 3sgte's safely and reliably. That board member goes by the name of RickyB. He has a complete write of up found here that will help you out immensly. http://www.mrcontrols.com/primers/power.htm


By the way, the search function is your friend. This type of question pops up about once a week in various fashions. One thing I will add though, please do not do like a lot of people do and have a nice set-up and then try to tune the engine with a piggy back like the SAF-C, too many engine failure's are caused from them. Go with a full stand-alone, you will obtain much better power and reliability to go with it and a rebuild is not needed as the stock internals can handle that kind of power easily if it's tuned properly.


Welcome to the boards!

EDIT: And hey a new board member that has a longer user name than I do! :lol: (really hate mine but hey I was 16 and thought it was the coolest)
 

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While 300-350RWHP is quite a broad range on its own, you will find that, even after the new ATS package deals (awesome, IMO), that is quite a large gap for the MR2.

Even between 275RWHP and 300RWHP is a huge gap.

275RWHP requires normal boltons, full exhaust, bolton turbo, intercooler.

300RWHP requires all these, plus a complete fuel system, some way to tune it, and race gas will likely be required if you get one of the smaller blton turbos. Cam's wouldnt hurt either. Thats easily another $2000.

Between 300 and 350RWHP, you can no longer safely use many of the parts from the ATS combo kit you originally purchased, so now you have to upgrade the turbo, which often requires a wastegate, DP, and oil lines (those all come with the ATS turbo kits), then you need an even more elaborate fuel system, and even better engine management.

But yeah, I suggest searching to find what it will require to reach all your goals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Yes im new...and just recently bought the mr2 turbo and two weeks later I had broke a rod...not sure wich one. (it had 170k miles..so i knew somethin bad was going to happen)...and planning to spend what ever is needed to reach my goal.. anyways thanx for the info..and advice :smile:
 

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I'm guessing you spun a rod bearing if it has anything to do with the rod. The stock rods are EXTREMELY EXTREMELY strong, heh (yes, two capitol extremelies). What was the oil level like? I wouldnt blame it on the fact that the engine is old, just yet. It is likely that there may have been low oil (now or in the past) which doomed the bearings to failure. It's also good to hear that you are willing to spend what it takes to do it right! I love to hear things like that.

I have the same mindset. Thats how my current build has gone from $1100 to $3000 haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Im not saying your wrong, but I dont think I spun a rod bearing.....it all started with a trip to hollywood video, and when I pulled up to the driveway I had smelled some wires burning, so I look at the engine and I saw that a ground wire (from the block to chassis) was melted......the next day I replaced it and tried to start it and wouldnt crank, so I take the key off the egnition and the motor still wanted to start..so I emmidiately disconnect the battery....I put it on jacks and spun the crank manually and only spun one way, but only a few turns before it was stuck..so I try to start it and attempted to start for about half a sec. and then got stuck again..so im guessing I broke a rod..




Also if I take it to get it rebuil with the ats package...will they replace them with new toyota internals..or use the ones it has?
 

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91Mr2TurboSW20 said:
Im not saying your wrong, but I dont think I spun a rod bearing.....it all started with a trip to hollywood video, and when I pulled up to the driveway I had smelled some wires burning, so I look at the engine and I saw that a ground wire (from the block to chassis) was melted......the next day I replaced it and tried to start it and wouldnt crank, so I take the key off the egnition and the motor still wanted to start..so I emmidiately disconnect the battery....I put it on jacks and spun the crank manually and only spun one way, but only a few turns before it was stuck..so I try to start it and attempted to start for about half a sec. and then got stuck again..so im guessing I broke a rod..




Also if I take it to get it rebuil with the ats package...will they replace them with new toyota internals..or use the ones it has?

That's an interesting problem. Although it may simply be compression. Although I really can't see a stock rod breaking in half in such a way that the crank sticks (especially if it would crank with the starter). THe stock rods have held 750RWHP, so I just cant imagine one breaking under stock conditions.

And about the rebuild. If you have them do a basic rebuild, they will likely just put in new bearings, rings, and gaskets. The stock stuff will surely still be fine, and there wouldnt be a need to replace them, unless of course the cylinders are scored badly enough to require an overbore. For a basic rebuild (all gaskets, new rings, bearings, etc) I'd guess about 1000 dollars based on the prices they gave me for other engine services.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I also have another porb. Ofcourse you may have heard that the 91/92 transmisions tend wear out 2nd gear, and start to grind.....would it be easier to get it rebuilt and put the lsd on to it...or just getting a 93 transmission.
 
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