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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I started on the timing belt installation on my 88 today. Made a few discoveries when i opened up the engine bay of my new toy. first off I noticed that the cruise control was not there :mad: so that frustrated me. Can the cruise control from other mr2's be installed in mine or is it too much work? well back to the engine...I started to take stuff off like it says in the haynes manual and I got to the alternator and about cried...when I loosened the bolt the alternator would not budge. I had to hit it with a hammer to get it too move so I could remove the belt. Then I took off the pulley for the water pump...but I can't seem to get the pulley off. :mad: How are you supposed to get it from between the waterpump and the body?? After fighting with the pulley, I spun my water pump to check how its working...it made a grinding noise and was hard to turn...so I guess I have to change it as well :cry: well after fighting with the waterpump I decided to lift the car and take off the passenger wheel so I could get the everything...but when I pulled the lugnuts off the tire didn't move :confused: I kicked it a few times and it finally came off...was rusted on. Well next on my list was to loosen the AC belt. I followed the manual and started loosening the idler pulley bolt...but the pulley never moved...removed the whole bolt. so by now I am getting pissed and it's getting dark. Maybe tomorrow will be a better day.

matt
 

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Put the jack under the oil pan protected by a piece of wood and slightly jack the engine up. That should create enough room to remove the water pump pully. For the ac belt, you also have to loosen two bolts, the one that is almost vertical and tightens the belt and the horizontal bolt facing the rear fender for the pully itself (15mm).

EricS has the best instructions. Bookmark his website!
http://padandwheels.com/mr2/waterpump/waterpump.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ron said:
Put the jack under the oil pan protected by a piece of wood and slightly jack the engine up. That should create enough room to remove the water pump pully. For the ac belt, you also have to loosen two bolts, the one that is almost vertical and tightens the belt and the horizontal bolt facing the rear fender for the pully itself (15mm).

EricS has the best instructions. Bookmark his website!
http://padandwheels.com/mr2/waterpump/waterpump.html
so how would I go about removing the second bolt?? got the long one on top out but belt still tight :( is it the bolt that actually holds the pulley on?

well update on todays work:
got water pump pulley out by lifting engine like ron said :D thanks man
moved alternator out of the way do I can get to the water pump.
removed oil dipstick

still need to get the gasket for the water inlet so I can replace the waterpump, and I need to drain the coolant....more to come
 

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Your not alone, we have all been down this road before. Just take your time, and by all means, do not rush this job! You want to make darn sure you do this once and do it right...by the book(Haynes or better yet, BGB) .If you are smart, you will do your timing belt(oem)water pump(OEM),belt tensioner bearing,cam seals, rear engine crank seal, valve cover gasket set(Napa), and new alt and AC belt.After you are finished you will realize it is not that bad of a job... ;) You should not have to worry about this side of the engine for many miles and years to come. You will learn much about the 4age.Take your time! Do it right the first time!
 

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Look at step number 8 of EricS instructions on changing the water pump. The arrow is pointing to the nut on the pully. The instructions say that it is a 14mm nut that is holding the pully inplace (I said 15mm, so I must be wrong). You just have to loosen that nut and the pully will slide down to reduce the tension on the belt.
 

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The nut in the center of the pulley can be considered a clamping nut. It clamps the pulley to the slotted rail that the pulley slides in. The long bolt that you removed just makes it easy for you to tension the belt, the clamp nut is what actually holds the pulley in place. And like Eric said, you will have to reinstall the bolt because it stops the stud that nut screws on to from spinning. It'll make sense once you get it loose and get a good look at it. It's a wonderful system really, beats jamming a pry par against the compressor and tightening the nut like you have to do with the alternator.

Getting the water pump pulley off comes when you support the engine on a jack and remove the engine mount. You just jack the engine up/down until your clear of the frame rail.

This car is approaching twenty years old. Things will be rusted. Penetrating oil, proper technique, and proper tools (six point!) will be your friend. Anybody can take their car to a shop and pay someone else to screw it up. Real men save money and learn useful skills by screwing it up themselves. Auto repair is a full contact sport. I didn't learn everything I know by sitting in a nice comfortable chair.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks you guys, I've done a headgasket before but not the timing belt. It makes sense now about the pulley having the bolt to hold it. I feel stupid now :(

thanks again
matt
 

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DIYers always feel stupid first time out of the gate. The more we wrench and break things, then fix'em, hopefully the less stupid we become. In theory.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Some good news and some bad:

The good:
Got both belts off today...removed the water inlet along with hoses connecting it to sidewall. I got the cams to the right place for TDC....had to figure out a way to see the nobs that show what position the cams are on. Ended up using a small screw driver to poke at the holes on the side of the nut to see where the nobs were and lined them up at 12 and 5.

The bad:
The problems arose when I tried to remove the crank pulley. I got a screwdriver in the flywheel and went to turn the bolt on the pulley....couldn't budge it :( it's not stripped out yet but I tried turning it to the left to loosen it and couldn't get anything. Any ideas on how to get it off?? It's not on lift, just sitting on jacks.
 

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Matt, Like we talked about the other day, a impact wrench will make short work of the crank pulley bolt. Most guys will use a long breaker bar and lots of leverage. You should be able to borrow any big tools you need from work.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't have an air compressor....thats what is needed for those right? (impact wrench) I tried using a socket wrench with the pole from the jack....but because my car isn't on a lift I can't get much leverage :( oh and is the 18mm the right size for the crank? the manual said it was a 19mm...maybe someone got a secret way of getting that dang bolt off
 

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There are also electric impact guns. You may be able to find one cheap. You will need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe if the bolt is really stuck. A ratchet will probably break if you put that much leverage on it.
 

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I find the best way to remove the crank pulley bolt without powa tools is to put a breaker bar on the bolt and push on it with my foot (grab hold of the towing loops and push towards the front of the car)! If you can find someone to make sure the socket is well seated on the bolt its a bonus.

An alternative is to brace the breaker bar against the floor (preferably concrete) and turn the engine over, usually fetches off the stuborn buggers!

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ChrisJLW said:
I find the best way to remove the crank pulley bolt without powa tools is to put a breaker bar on the bolt and push on it with my foot (grab hold of the towing loops and push towards the front of the car)! If you can find someone to make sure the socket is well seated on the bolt its a bonus.

An alternative is to brace the breaker bar against the floor (preferably concrete) and turn the engine over, usually fetches off the stuborn buggers!

HTH
How do you keep the bolt from slipping :( I tried using a breaker bar on it...but it kept coming off. should i raise the whole car off the ground? oh and starting the car with the breaker bar on...does that mess up the tdc?? I would assume you would take out the screwdriver holding the flywheel in place to do that.
 

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Get someone to hold the breaker bar on the bolt to stop it slipping off, while you push on the it, but keep the force progressive don't bash it :smile: .

The car should be high enough on the axle stands to slide under and get your foot to the breaker bar. A 1/2" drive with a piece of pipe slotted over it can be used instead of a breaker bar, it'll then be able to rotate freely under the car without hitting the floor.

If you use the second method you do need to remove the screw driver! But it sounds like the bolt head is somewhat rounded so the socket may jump off. It will mess up the TDC but it's not dificult to get back as you can re-tighted the bolt slightly and rotate the engine back. If you've removed the spark plugs the engine should rotate easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
did the spark plugs have to be removed while doing this job?? I didn't want to mess with the head too much til li got it running...

matt
 

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dobosininja said:
did the spark plugs have to be removed while doing this job?? I didn't want to mess with the head too much til li got it running...

matt
No but it makes rotating the crank shaft a little easier as you're not compressing the air in the cylinders (it escapes from the spark plug holes).
 
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