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this is the old faq

13K views 124 replies 3 participants last post by  Rojgonz 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
PART 1

How to install a nitrous wet kit on your mr2 turbo.

First off what you do to your car is your business and this write up does not guarantee your car will not blow up from increasing power levels above stock. No warranty is written expressed or implied!

Now that said, I used nitrous works wet kit part number 13092, it is for a supra non-turbo, but works fine in my application. I am not going to go word for word out of the instructions but rather helpful information that apply to installing it into your mr2 turbo. First find a warm dry place to install the kit, like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq001_jpg.jpg

Read the entire directions front to back before starting this project. And next find a place to mount the bottle, I used the rear trunk. You may mount the bottle in the front trunk, or inside the cab just make yourself aware current NHRA rules, such as a blow down tube will be required if the bottle is in the drivers compartment. The 10 pound bottle will only fit one way in the rear trunk so pay close attention to the pick up tube when installing. Note you will gain more power having the bottle run the length of the car versus sideways, and it will allow you to use more nitrous before refilling. I mounted mine like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq002_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq013_jpg.jpg

Make sure not to run the nitrous feed line next to the hot exhaust and moving parts. Use the rubber grommet in the side of the trunk to exit the feed line. Now into the engine bay find a place to mount the solenoids, I used the extra hole in the bracket on the air fuel meter. Measure the nitrous and fuel line before installing the solenoids too far from the fogger. When installing the fogger it should be 6 inches away from the throttle body which puts us at the oem rubber right before the throttle body, bad idea it will rip and cause boost leaks, loss of power, and funny running conditions. If you have the means make something like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq003_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq004_jpg.jpg

If not drill and tap the OEM throttle body inlet. So the bottle is mounted, feed line is ran, solenoids are installed, and you to made a custom fogger adapter piece, so what?s next lets cover the micro switch often called a full throttle switch. It needs to be mounted on the throttle body in line of the throttle cam like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq005_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq006_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq015_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq016_jpg.jpg

I also used it to ground the solenoids. The last thing is solenoid electrical and we will come back to this. You will have to choose a method of activating the system and I picked the b&m shift knob with a momentary switch, but you may pick any other type of normally open switch.

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq007_jpg.jpg

Just some food for thought a relay is a electromagnetic switch that uses a small amount of voltage to control a large amount of voltage. So do not tap a wire into the fuse box. Run all new wires following the book exactly, don?t skimp on electrical connections always solder and shrink-wrap. No twist and tape. I mounted my relay inside the cab behind the passenger seatbelt cover; only one hot wire should be going into the engine bay for the solenoids. After the wiring is complete perform a dry test by arming the system and rotating the throttle cam to the full throttle position you should be able to hear and feel the solenoids click. If your fuel is already hooked up you cam still do a test fire just shoot it into a can or something to catch the fuel.

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq008_jpg.jpg

PART 2

Fuel needs

You are going to need to buy this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq009_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq025_jpg.jpg

to get this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq010_jpg.jpg

Its a banjo bolt that replaces the oem one on the fuel filter but adds a 1/8 npt port on top. Just perfect for running a line to the fuel solenoid like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq011_jpg.jpg

Its ultra clean and oem looking, plus there is no cutting into the fuel lines.

PART 3

This is how mine came out:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq012_jpg.jpg
 
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#27 ·
from icyjaws
since the amount of fuel and n2o is olny changed by the pressure, temp. and nozzel size, why would this be for NX kits only? I know that diff manufacters do give slightly diff size for each HP rating. But i was told that it was because some give the rating at the flywheel and some at the ground. Also what does the size actually stand for? I mean is a 35 actually 0.035 in diameter/radius or what?
 
#28 ·
from bean
icyjaws, calibration is key here. my nitrous works kit is designed to operate at 1000 psi from the factory. any less bottle pressure and im rich,and more bottle pressure and im lean. all the company's calibrate their systems to run at different pressures, like 900,950. some kits may have lower flowing solenoids and valves so they adjust the jets size and bottle pressure requirements to meet/match a desired shot.and you are right on the jet size a 42,means the orfice is 42 thousands.
 
#29 ·
from icyjaws
so since the nozzle sizes are in 1000ths we should be able to calcuate a table based on bottle pressure and say 40 psi fuel pressure to figure out what size nozzles to be using for what pressure. Also could get real tricky and use bottle temps. hmm don't think i want to do that much thermo. The mass ratio for n20 to fuel is like 6:1 right?
 
#30 ·
from nitrous works and bean
Jet Chart for 13092 Nitrous Kit

HP Level N2O Jet Fuel Jet Fuel PSI
25 24 18 40
50 34 26 40
60 39 29 40
70 43 31 40
100 55 33 40


Thank you

Tech @ Barry Grant, Inc.

BG Fuel Systems, Demon Carburetion, Nitrous Works, & Rush Performance Filters

1450 McDonald Rd.
Dahlonega, GA 30533
Phone (706) 864-8544
Fax (706) 864-2206

Tech M-F 8AM to 6PM EST


As you guys can see there is different size jets for the same horsepower levels.
"NOS" N2O 35 FUEL 20 = 50 SHOT
"NW" N2O 34 FUEL 26= 50 SHOT
 
#31 ·
from alza
like dmitri, I to want to know how much a 50 wet shot will affect the compression ratio in our engine under full boost. I have been considering the use of nitrous for a while now but me and dmitri had a talk about the extra stress it will put on the engine versus just going to a bigger turbo. I would plan to do 23psi + the 50 wet probably only in 3rd and 4th gear. I know certain EMS's can control nitrous injection, and I will have the AEM as soon as it comes out. How exactly does the EMS go about controlling the nitrous?
 
#32 ·
from bean
alza,yes the compression ratio will raise with nitrous but, like i said before boost is a by product of nitrous so, i if you shoot a 50 or raise boost 3 psi the compression ratio is the same. you are going to get more boost but its your pick of where it comes from. if you are boosting 20 psi with a tdo6 and want to turn it up to 23 psi (all turbo), you are now at 23 psi and more hot air,now flip it stay at 20 psi and shoot a 50, wham you got your 23 psi but its a lot colder than making it on the turbo alone. the beny's of fighting ping and still making power will help keep your invesment together. in short boost loves nitrous due to its cooling action. i will be heading to the dyno soon to show the board how much power a 70 shot makes at 18 psi. i will do two runs 1 on the bottle and 1 off the bottle, so we can say with proof that a 70 shot on a mr2 makes 875 rwhp.
 
#34 ·
from bean
This is the return e-mail i got from aquamist.uk Hello Barron,

There is only plus point of water injecting a nitrous engine, it will aid
in-cylinder cooling as well as suppressing detonation.

One thing you need to watch out is to introduce a water/alcohol mixed
solution so that the water does not freeze your throttle plate open. 50%
methanol mix is normally used.

Regards
Richard Lamb
erl@aquamist.co.uk
 
#35 ·
from bean
this is a return e-mail from barry grant (nitrous works) James

Water injection was used in years past to help with detonation, with
todays products it's generally not used anymore since it will cost you more HP,
and will actually not be as safe as a properly set up system without it.

Thank you

Tech @ Barry Grant, Inc.

BG Fuel Systems, Demon Carburetion, Nitrous Works, & Rush Performance Filters

1450 McDonald Rd.
Dahlonega, GA 30533
Phone (706) 864-8544
Fax (706) 864-2206

Tech M-F 8AM to 6PM EST

you guys be the judge. water injection is loved very much on this board but,many people have it just because other people have it. the board is a big band wagon if you will,its easy to follow others but its had to set your self apart from the mainstream. just look at the ct20b thing, a few guys got them then the board blew up with post regarding how do i get a ct20b,then it faded quick and now its all about bb turbos. this is beans thing water injection lowers intake temps to aid in fighting ping, well n2o lower's intake temps too. in my case i would just retard timing a few degrees to fight ping vs a 500.00 water sprayer. now if you are full race,30 psi,and a welded head then h2o injection would come into play,but most of us are not in that league. so if you want it get it,if you think it will help get it, but if you are not pinging why spend the money.and remember race gas is the best at fighting ping. so low boost with daily driving,race gas and high boost when racing. heck i had to turn down my boost to 7 psi for daily driving because of gas prices, now do i really need water shooting down my intake at 7 psi? no. well thats all for now,talk to you later.....bean
 
#36 ·
from sallystrothers
I don't think it is necessary to run water injection the same time as nitrous. Nitrous actually is a better buffer agent than water anyway (not only does it absorb energy when it vaporizes but also when it decomposes into nitrogen and oxygen). Water injection would essentially be pointless while on the bottle. I have a water injection system that out performs any other on the market, and it is all custom made and less than $200. It is all mapped and controlled by laptop.
 
#37 ·
from joel
But one important, and I mean IMPORTANT thing to install along with a nitrous kit is a window switch. MSD makes them but I'm not sure what other companies do. The window switch is RPM activated so that the nitrous will only be injected between certain RPM levels. Normal nitrous kits have a wide open throttle switch, but also use the window switch. You CANNOT over rev, free rev, inject too soon, etc. and blow your engine with a window switch that is PROPERLY adjusted.

If you do not have a window switch and decide to squeeze while you are trying to make a record run, and BAM, you powershift into 3rd, grind the gears while still having the pedal to the medal and tap the rev limiter, your engine will probably suffer severe damage. Spraying nitrous while revving is VERY bad. Spraying nitrous while revving, missing a gear and hitting rev limiter is catastrophic! Easily done while missing one powershift. It happens! Powershifting is bad, but improves time by a good amount, especially on turbo cars since powershifting completely eliminates boost lag after shifts. MSD Window switch - ~$100. Don't go cheap on doing the nitrous mod right. Hell, even with the extra $100 nitrous is still very easily the best bang for the buck other than a simple ball-spring MBC.
 
#38 ·
from bean
You do not want to hit n2o under 3000 rpm's,or bounce off the rev limiter. For some a window switch is a good idea. This is how most should be using n2o, pull to staging line,light the second bulb,purge,1st gear slipping the clutch out of the hole,hit 2nd gear bring the revs over 2k,at full throttle activate the system,let off going 3rd and 4th. And at the very end of the run keep the car at full throttle without nitrous to get rid of any left over fuel.Thanks for the input joel.
 
#39 ·
from bean
it depends on how your system is set up,like mine i have a switch on my shifter so my thumb controls the nitrous and im not pushing the button until after im in gear. as for tapping the rev limiter my autometer shift light is set at 6800,so im off the bottle before redline. i will say there is alot going on during a drag race and any item that makes your race safer with less stuff to do is a good idea. but you do not want to over do it either,in my 944 i had a tach recall box from summit and it had to be activaded seconds before launching but there was toooo much stuff going on to use it with good results due to staging and watching the lights and launching. you do want your hands on tyhe wheel. just think if you throw a line lock,purge,and comm into the mix,it's alot to do. james
 
#40 ·
from bullwinkle
Bean,

Cheers for taking the time to post this FAQ.

I was wondering if i could ask some specfic questions, which i dont think have been answered.

I am really interested in running nitrous on my car. The problem is with the majority of nitrous tuners in the UK take one line when it comes to fitting this to a turbo'ed car. Dont run higher boost, just run nitrous. Now this dosnt appeal as 95% of the time i wouldnt be on the giggle gas and hence the performance of my car wouldnt be as i wanted it to be.

Now i fully understand what you are saying about nitrous acting as a charge cooler so essentially you could run less boost and make more power with the gas. But that only applies when the gas is on.

Your imput on the following is greatly appreciated...

My idea was to install an EBC which would allow me to swap between boost settings. Essentially i could run my turbo at its maximum Psi for road and track use. When the gas isnt on then i wouldnt be loosing power from having to run a lower boost setting. This would then mean that when i drag race at the track i could drop the EBC to operate a lower boost level which would allow me to run the nitorus safely without worries.

Firstly can this be done with EBC's and also could it be done on the fly.

My car currently makes just under 300 BHP with only minimal mods (Rev3 - Intake, DP, Exhaust, Increased boost) and i fully intend to build the engine up further later on down the line.

So what i proposing would be to run on the road at say 18psi and then drop the boost to 16 psi when running nitrous, which would hopefully account for the boost increase i get from the nitrous. Or is my logic flawed ... more than likley knowing me

I really want a nitrous kit for my Turbo but i want a system that means i can keep my car in peak performance for the road and then switch it over to be a drag strip monster.

I have to look to you guys in the Us as the UK based tuners dont really seem all to clued up on the subject.

Kind regards

James
 
#41 ·
from bean
james you are looking at this the right way, higher boost off the bottle,and lower boost on the bottle. i use a blitz dsbc with 18 psi as my high off n2o,and 16/15 psi on the bottle. yes is it adjustable on the fly, right now i use one of my four settings for driving to work set at seven psi (gas saver)and any time i want some pep i just turn the knob one click to the left and im at 16 psi. i still love my twos'r'us mbc but i needed adjustment on the go with zero by the side of the road late night tuning.a ebc is almost a must in my book when using nitrous,due to the safety features built into the unit. let me know if there is anything else i can help you with. be
 
#42 ·
from bullwinkle
Cheers Bean,

Just what i wanted to know. I knew it could be done, but over hear all the nitrous tuners just say run no boost and all nitrous. Which only makes my car fast for 5% of the time.

I will have a look into boost controllers to finda suitable one, but you reccomend the BLITZ DSBC? Would the Apexi AVCR be suitable, i dont know if it can be switched bewteen settings.

My friend owns a Jap import conversion garage and he has loads of spares which get taken off the cars before sale, i know he has got a spare HKS EVC 4 which i could blag, would this be suitable?

Havent really looked into EBC's as i was always planning on a full standalone, but my view has changed and now i know i can get the performance figures i want without having to spend ????? on a new turbo and EMS.

To coin a phrase i want a Jekyl and Hyde car, 300 odd bhp for the road and considerably more with the giggle gas for the track.

Out of interest when you change your boost settings i take it you do this when you off the turbo (not boosting) Am i right in thinking that you cant for example drop the boost from 18psi to 16 psi when your going for it (for example a road race) to engage the nitrous.

Not that i would use the nitrous on the road but i really want to know the limitations of this set up.

No for the sad part .. what sort of shot could i run on my car considering all is well and good. The unit is a Rev3 3SGTE with stock internals and CT20 turbo. If for example i ran a 50 shot would that be more like adding 75bhp, as i benifit from better charge cooling as a result.

Bearing in mind my car makes a wisker under 300bhp / 278lbs/ft at 1.2 bar with the mods i have listed on the previous post, would it be possible for my car to make near on 400bhp with dropped boost and nitrous?

I want to have the fastest 1/4 mile MR2 in the UK

You advice is really appreicated.

Kind regards

James
 
#43 ·
from bean
bullwinkle, with the blitz dsbc you can toggle between preset boost levels when boosting.i have never used,installed,or tuned a apex avcr so i have no facts to state about it other than it is also a ebc.if you go after market ecu i do know the aem plug and play will also taylor boost settings for you.

and just for the record your nitrous should be tuned to a specific psi/bar well within the 11.5-11.8 air fuel ratio,and i would not have the system active when switching different boost levels.
as for the shot always start small and work up from there.
a 50 shot wet on the 3sgte will make 80~90 rear wheel horse power



james


__________________
 
#44 ·
from bullwinkle
After thinking about this i think i will go for a piggyback rather than a full standalone. The DASTEK unichip fits my goals for the time being, really inexpensive and will allow my cars fuel and timing to be adjusted for the road (without Nitrous) and for the track (with Nitrous) - from discussions with a turner in the UK who works with these systems it can also be activated on the fly to change settings.

I will investigate futher into the EBC subject as the DASTEK unit that i intend to go for at the moment dosnt have the best boost control. Hopefully the AVCR will allow me to change settings on the fly, i would prefer this unit for boost control as you can set boost by gear which should help with off the line traction.
 
#45 ·
from bean
bullwinkle, thanks for clearing up some items for me. i would think your ignition is like the usdm gen 2 with adjustable timing,right? if so then you should be okay with the timing issue,depending on which kit you buy you may have to retard timing 2 degrees.(also msd makes some nice timing control boxes) and as for fuel tuning i have found after much research the adjustable fuel pressure regulator from areomotive is the way to go because, it will adjust base fuel pressure lower than stock to lean out the car. the us gen 2 is a pig rich baby,how is yours? be careful of what black box you install because it may advance engine timing like the apex afc.
 
#46 ·
from todd t
Just thought i'd add to this since i have experience with street and race nitrous equiped cars, including my 93t.

On my car:

NX universal EFI import wet kit
swapped the 14ft feed line for a 4 ft line
NX purge kit
NX bottle warmer
NX 15 lb bottle upgrade
Throttle switch activates at WOT, no manual control

I was formerlly "sponsored" by one of the biggest NX distributors in TX due to my former involvement in the street racing seen. I got the best of everything because i only paid for 1/4 of the stuff and they wanted me to have it all.

Bottle Warmer is not something i would consider necessary for the mr2 because of the location of the bottle (trunk) and the constant somewhat high temperatures back there, bottle pressure was always consistant and i never needed the warmer.


Purge kit is very cool. without purging, nitrous delay can be a couple of secconds from when you activate it to when it reaches the combustion chamber and the fuel can hit first causing fouling plugs and/or bogging the car and worst would be nitrouse backfire through the throttle body Also, if someone pulls up to race you on the street and you are not in the mood, you cound sound off your blow off valve follow be the purge and 99% off the time, they will change there mind (my favorite part)

I do not recommend using the nitrouse before 3k rpms, hopefully you dont race at that low rpm anyways.

if you are going to spray 75HP or more, it would not be a bad idea to get a fuel cell and put race gas in it. You will need to buy the cell, pump, regulator and necessary hardware, but this will decrease chances of detonation. You will also have to rejet the kit to match the fuel pressure you chose to run.

I was running 50HP nitrous shot into my t3/t4 equiped mr2 at 16psi boost with stock engine and no fuel or timing control and was still running a little rich.

Do yourself a favor and install a good clutch before you buy your kit, you will kill your stock one quickly!

thats all i have time for, if anyone needs help, i will try to answer your questions, just send me an email
 
#47 ·
from bean
it must be hot in texas because my bottle pressure ranges from 600-800 with no heater,i have to use a heater to attain my 1000 psi and hold it. mabey due to my white trunk reflecting sunlight or its just colder in san diego.who knows. but i still recommend it to n2o users. its good to see more people adding information to this post, thanks again to all who have put words of wisdom into this thread. and there is much more to come. james
 
#49 ·
from bean
some n2o people swear by its cleaing effect but, i have found that it is tracable and leaves a white sulfer residue. when i was using the kit to cool the inter cooler the spray would enter the cab and coat everything with a sticky film of sulfer. and it does not taste good. my next hunch is that the residue will build up causing the wastgate door to not propery close and cause boost problems. we will see after many more pounds and my next turbo pull.

NOTE: to all new n2o people and posters please take the time to read all the pages in this thread because there is a lot of info already covered.
james
 
#50 ·
from pontiac5oh
so, mr.bean...im posting in the n20 section. i have the stock ct-26, no clipping etc. and am running 17psi, no problems for 20k+. i can run more than 12psi with the juice? i just can not afford a new motor or anything major breaking. i have the 120k tune up. new wires, plugs, dizzy, tbelt, clutch, rear main seal, flywheel...etc. should i swap to colder plugs? i just dont want to get any false info, and then blow my motor. so i cna keep stock timing and run what...15psi with a 50 shot? i ran a 13.5, and run mid 13s consistantily with my mods (see sig), can i expect mid 12s? or high twelves?
thanks a bunch, this sticky was great to read b4 posting.
tyler
 
#51 ·
from bean
Tyler,turn your boost down to 13 and try a 50 wet,you should be around 17 psi. the only other factor that comes into play is how free your exhaust is.you may only get a 2 psi jump in boost,so start slow and low and build up from there. im still playing with my system trying to figure out whats making more power high boost and low n2o,or low boost big shot of n2o. right now im leaning to low boost more juice. even on the bottle your stock turbo is going to fall on its face at 5500 rpm's,so you may want to upgrade in the future.okay now for the serious part my mr2 is my daily driver to work,40 miles a day so I can not afford to break my engine either. no one wants to blow a head gasket or break pistons so WE are in the same boat. right now i run 18 psi on 91 pump gas with now problems to report other than bad milage.think of it this way boost is boost and psi is psi, so if you are on the bottle hitting 17 psi its the same as hitting 17 psi all turbo just ALOT colder air.and again you will not have to retard timing if you use nitrous works or nitrous express kits. please go 1 or 2 steps colder than stock with the plugs. what clutch do you have? when you go back to the track you should see 3/10's off your time, IF THE CAR AND NITOUS IS TUNED PROPERLY .
And one more note the NX kit cost 2-300.00 more than nitrous works. you and your car will be fine,and feel free to e-mail me anytime you have questions regarding your install and tuning.


bean
 
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