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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
from fastmister2
Alright, I think I know where I stand. First I need to get compression down to spec. The bgb says spec is 165, but I was refering to the spec about the range between the cylinders....If I had 165 on #4 and 200 on #2, then thats "out of spec"...but nonetheless, I've known I had high carbon buildup for nearly a year now. It's prolly just from 13years of use and it probably never had a FULL tune up...just the basic stuff. SO, I'm going to do that first.

GoTime, I'm starting with a 50shot. I plan on purchasing the kit, window switch, fog lamp switch and such by the end of this month. In two weeks, I'm having toyota slap a machine on my water system and clean out all the gunk thats in those lines. Apparently, someone put some form of stop leak in the water lines (before I owned it) and it turned into a grease base and really clogged up my oil cooler. So, I'm doing that first. While i do that, i'm throwing some top end cleaner in the gas tank sometime this week. If compression is still high, then I'll have to pull the head, which I'm not too excited about. Let's hope the top end cleaner will work Anyone have luck with it?

yeah, I didnt think race gas was the answer.....I rarely follow instructions from domestic guys, but I keep an open mind just in case.

Lets hope I can get compression down, else thats where the buck stops with nitrous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
from fastmister2
thanks for the diagrams bean and gotime. I have one little problem...I'm using the MSD window switch. Can you or someone incorporate that switch in the diagram? I talked a little with gotime about how the window switch works with the WOT switch. I'm confused on how that would work.

For a while, I thought of going with a better turbo to hit my 12s....but, its going to cost some $$$...I'm very surpised I'd be spending a lot of money on a manifold, so screw that idea.

still searching for the cheapest/best nitrous kit. 555 for that NX single shot kit is pretty cheap......so I think thats the kit I will go with.

But, I want to "see" how this electrical stuff will lay out first. gotta have it all in my head.......thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
from gotime242
Hey, the Rpm window switch will basically go anywhere from the (+) battery terminal, to the main relay switch. You can throw as many switches of all sorts that are activated in different ways into that circut and it would all still work. THink of it this way, you have a really long road.. you can throw as many bridges into that road and your car will still be able to get to the end as long as all the bridges are connected. Same with all these switched, you can do as many as possible, they will still all wait for each other to be complete before the connection is complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
from spddmon
Jet size Question
OK, I've cruised through all the N2O stuff I could find on the board without finding an answer to my question....

What are the appropriate jet sizes for different HP "shots"? I found a local shop with a book that provided numbers for cars with about 8psi of fuel pressure. What about EFI cars with 45-60psi of fuel pressure? What size jets are you guys running for 35, 50, 75, 100HP?

Also, I have a direct port NOS kit, but I decided just to run one fogger into the intake plumbing since I couldn't find a jet combination small enough to stay under 100HP (25HP per cylinder).

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
from bean
Well you missed a few posts then all nitrous companies use different size jets to get a specific shot size. I.e. NX & Nitrous works jet charts are not compatible due to the different system pressures. You want to go with the chart that came with your kit and tune it to your fuel pressure. And for the last one it was stated to go to a Jet Ski shop for small jets like 10,15, and 20. If you have a direct port kit then put it on as a DP kit, you?re just cheating yourself with one fogger. if you have any questions on direct port hit up sallystrothers,and look for noshoes also installing a direct port kit. happy boosting. bean
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
from spddmon
Yeah, I realize that all the kits may size jets differently. I have a used kit that did not come with any documentation. I have an NOS kit. I don't see anything wrong with spraying one fogger with a large enough shot to equate for 4 smaller foggers for the time being. I have a worn short block (just slapped new pistons and rings in it for a race overnight) and don't know how much it will hold up. I have a new long block that should be ready to go in a few days, so I would just like to throw a bit of the N2O at it and see what it does.

Anyone have fuel/N2O jet combinations for 35, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 shots that they would share? I can't find anything even on the NOS/Holley website. I'll verify exact fuel pressure and can calculate jets, but I'm curious what the manufacturer is suggesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
from bean
the direct port set up has way better distribution than a single fogger. on a stock 3sgte intake manifold you are going to shoot more n20 and fuel in cylinders 2 and 3.its a shame but almost all mr2-ers only run NX kits so i do not think anyone can give you proper numbers for your set up,PLEASE call NOS tech line.and when you do get them please repost the info. bean
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
from cronous23
safe nitro+ boost levels
i want to run a single fogger wet nos kit .
my engine is built:
-arp rod bolts+preped rods
-je pistons 9:0.1 comp .20 over
-3 layer metal hadgasket+arp head studs
-tvis gutted+head port & polish
fuel set up:
-supra fuel pump
-zeiner diode mod
-stock injectors
*note: comp is 9:0.1
-what boost and nitro hp setting can be run with this set up
safely?
right now i run 11psi

thank you
cronous23
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
from cronous23
safe boost & nitro on stock fuel system
thanx bean...
the engine now has about 10k on it since the build up. to the best of my knowledge the "JE" pistons are forged. the turbo was upgraded to ct26/t60-1 my concern was that since i had raised the comp ratio to 9:0.1 maybe the stock fuel system might not be able to keep up even though i have a supra fuel pump and a zeiner diode mod. what i wanted to run was 15lbs of boost and a 50hp shot of nitro.
thanx again
cronous23
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
from gotime242
You should have no problem. Im running a 50 shot with a stock unopened engine, at about 14.5-14.7 psi, and with boost creep it goes up to like 16-17psi (nitrous causes boost creep with ct-26 (small) turbo). And im on stock fuel, stock everything pretty much. I get great results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
from dr.j
hi, i will be installing nx wet kit this week so i can join in all the fun you guys are having.i have a question about timing.from what ive read you dont need a retard on the nx kit, however i am running a blitz access ecu which i belive has a more aggressive timing map, similar to the gforce i think.should i retard base timing to be safe? will this be efective? how many degrees? will the retard adversly effect my day to day driving?i would like to keep my ecu if possable, but if i have to go back to the stock ecu i will, i just need to find one. i plan to eventually run 14 psi with a 50 shot, 91 octane with mix of 110 race fuel to raise safty. any reply would be helpfull thanks, jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
from bean
hi jason,welcome to the juice. with the nx,nitrous works kits you do not have to retard timing. but if you are running a different ecu,your going to retard base timing or replace the oem ecu when on the bottle. my co worker has to remove his hypertech program when on the bottle due to the timing issue. the 14 psi+50 on 91 octace sounds fine.if you run 110 octane its leaded and will damage cats and o2 sensors. but yes please join in the fun. bean


__________________
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
from mscdman
Bean


I too am going to be installing the NX wet kit here in a bit. BUt I am concccerned about timing and my techtom ECU just like the other guy. I can install a stock ECu when running nitrous BUT what am I supposed to do about controlling my 550cc's?

Even if I go with the stock ECU and SAFC with nitrous, i am still going to be running into the same problem as with the G-Force ECU.

Is my only solution to retard the base timing? And if so, how much shoudl I be retarding it?

FYI Bean - I cannot get the MSD timing moldule to work right with teh tach adapter When I hooked up the tach adapter that MSD reccomended and the timing module, I tapped theblack wire coming off the 8910EIS tach adapter into the blk-wht wire of the igniter. The car started fine and the timing was able to be controlled but the tach was WAYYY off. Was I supped to TAP INTO the igniter wire or REROUTE the wire into the tach adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
from bean
it sounds like its hooked up correctly but you have the wrong tach adapter if its jumpy. also i would use the oem ecu, and install a afpr to cover the 550's.im not going to tell you how much to retard timing unless we know exactly how much more timing the aftermarket ecu is putting out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
from mscdman
1) Bean if I can get the timing module to work woudl it be safe to run nitrous with my techtom ecu, assuming I use the timing thing to retard by 3-4 degrees?


2) I have an adjustable FPR. What do you reccomend me setting my base fuel pressure to, in order that I can properly use the 550cc's (this will be with a stock ecu) and nitrous. Currently, I have it set for about 40 psi.

3) When you say it sounds like I have it hooked up corrrectly, do you mean that I was correct to only "TAP" into the blk-wht wire on the ignitor harness and not to reroute it?

4) Can I use an SAFC with nitrous? If not how are any of you without standalones, that are running 550'ss and nitrous not running incredibley rich?

5) If I try to use the techtom ecu with the nitrous, do you think retarding the base timing woudl work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
from bean
bean>
1) no.
2)only the dyno tuning session will tell after you purchase the n2o kit.
3)the bulk msd is correct but you have the wrong tach adapter.
4)no. paul im still pig rich with mods and a 50 shot,no 550's needed with my turbo.
5)yes and no,its a trick question cause its the same as your #1. if it was my car i would try it but its not so im not gonna tell you to."release of liability- what you do to your car is your business"
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
from mscdman
Can someone with emanage experience provide any insite to the below?

Let me also propose somethign to you that makes sense to me. Tell me why you think this wouldn't work:

I can sell my techtom ecu and afc and use the stock ecu. However, my car will be running very rich due to the 550 injectors. I am going to buy an emanage. It seems to me that all I have to do is the folllowing: lean out the fuel mixutre to an acceptable A/F ratio on the dyno THEN also using the emanage, at every RPM range that I leaned out the A/F ratio, I retard the timing in that same RPM range by 1 degree for every 3 that I leaned it out. I dont see why this wouldnt work AND be safe. Please advise.

Think about it if I am leaning out during an RPM range would retarding timing at that exact same range nullify the effect of the lean out??
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
from mscdman
Bean or anyone else....

Do you know of any way other than ordering that banjo boolt from B&M to get it?? They want like 30 bucks for the kit just for a bolt. That is crazy. Even the bolt itself through summit is 15 + shipping. I gigure I can go to NAPA and maybe find a banjo bolt like that. Does anyone know the fitting sizes etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
from bean
if you get the B&M kit it comes with 2 new crush washers,the magic fitting,and a much need fuel pressure gauge that is used for tuning. $30.00 and its a direct bolt on.
 
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