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PART 1

How to install a nitrous wet kit on your mr2 turbo.

First off what you do to your car is your business and this write up does not guarantee your car will not blow up from increasing power levels above stock. No warranty is written expressed or implied!

Now that said, I used nitrous works wet kit part number 13092, it is for a supra non-turbo, but works fine in my application. I am not going to go word for word out of the instructions but rather helpful information that apply to installing it into your mr2 turbo. First find a warm dry place to install the kit, like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq001_jpg.jpg

Read the entire directions front to back before starting this project. And next find a place to mount the bottle, I used the rear trunk. You may mount the bottle in the front trunk, or inside the cab just make yourself aware current NHRA rules, such as a blow down tube will be required if the bottle is in the drivers compartment. The 10 pound bottle will only fit one way in the rear trunk so pay close attention to the pick up tube when installing. Note you will gain more power having the bottle run the length of the car versus sideways, and it will allow you to use more nitrous before refilling. I mounted mine like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq002_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq013_jpg.jpg

Make sure not to run the nitrous feed line next to the hot exhaust and moving parts. Use the rubber grommet in the side of the trunk to exit the feed line. Now into the engine bay find a place to mount the solenoids, I used the extra hole in the bracket on the air fuel meter. Measure the nitrous and fuel line before installing the solenoids too far from the fogger. When installing the fogger it should be 6 inches away from the throttle body which puts us at the oem rubber right before the throttle body, bad idea it will rip and cause boost leaks, loss of power, and funny running conditions. If you have the means make something like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq003_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq004_jpg.jpg

If not drill and tap the OEM throttle body inlet. So the bottle is mounted, feed line is ran, solenoids are installed, and you to made a custom fogger adapter piece, so what?s next lets cover the micro switch often called a full throttle switch. It needs to be mounted on the throttle body in line of the throttle cam like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq005_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq006_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq015_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq016_jpg.jpg

I also used it to ground the solenoids. The last thing is solenoid electrical and we will come back to this. You will have to choose a method of activating the system and I picked the b&m shift knob with a momentary switch, but you may pick any other type of normally open switch.

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq007_jpg.jpg

Just some food for thought a relay is a electromagnetic switch that uses a small amount of voltage to control a large amount of voltage. So do not tap a wire into the fuse box. Run all new wires following the book exactly, don?t skimp on electrical connections always solder and shrink-wrap. No twist and tape. I mounted my relay inside the cab behind the passenger seatbelt cover; only one hot wire should be going into the engine bay for the solenoids. After the wiring is complete perform a dry test by arming the system and rotating the throttle cam to the full throttle position you should be able to hear and feel the solenoids click. If your fuel is already hooked up you cam still do a test fire just shoot it into a can or something to catch the fuel.

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq008_jpg.jpg

PART 2

Fuel needs

You are going to need to buy this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq009_jpg.jpg
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq025_jpg.jpg

to get this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq010_jpg.jpg

Its a banjo bolt that replaces the oem one on the fuel filter but adds a 1/8 npt port on top. Just perfect for running a line to the fuel solenoid like this:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq011_jpg.jpg

Its ultra clean and oem looking, plus there is no cutting into the fuel lines.

PART 3

This is how mine came out:

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq012_jpg.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Frequently asked Questions

Can the stock fuel system support a nitrous kit without running lean?
Yes! As long as its in good shape and you changed your fuel filter.

Should I run a dry kit on my turbo car?
No! Always use a wet kit, plus it aids in tuning later.

What size jets (shot) should I run?
I have used a 70 shot with 15 pounds of boost with no problems to date. My rule of thumb is never more than ? the engines horsepower.

Should I retard timing?
Rtfb, most nitrous manufactures say retard only if shooting over a 100 shot.

What is a bottle blanket?
It?s a insulated blanket to keep heat in the bottle for more pressure and Consistency.

What is a bottle heater?
Think of it as a small electric blanket to keep the bottle temp at 85 degrees and it?s turned on and off to adjust bottle pressure.

What is a purge?
It is a system used to vent air out of the nitrous line so the nitrous is right at the solenoid.

Should I use an FCD with nitrous?
No! If you hit fuel cut it will most likely run lean and detonate. Its best to unplug the vacuum line going to the OEM boost pressure sensor and use it to operate your boost gauge.

Is nitrous bad for the engine?
No! It?s just a power adder like the turbo. It?s only dangerous when you run lean on the bottle. Proper tuning is key.

How much does it cost to fill the bottle?
It varies at different places I pay 3.25 a pound.

How long will the bottle last?
Depends on how much you hit it. A 50 shot will last a long time maybe 7-12 passes.

Is nitrous flammable?
No! Its only supports combustion.

Where do I install the fogger on my N.A.?
Dry kits before the afm, wet kits 6 inches from the throttle body.

Who make the best nitrous kit?
They are all good, NOS has been making them the longest, NX seems to be a board fovorite, and no one really like the zex kit.

My car stumbles for a few seconds after hitting the nitrous what is it?
Its most likely fuel being sucked out of the line to the fuel solenoid. Stay in the throttle for a few seconds after disarming the system.

What is a Hobbs switch?
It is a low fuel pressure safety switch that cuts off the system if fuel pressure gets to low. some are adjustable but most are not.
 

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"orginally posted by gotime242"

Part One

Direct Port Nitrous Injection: A direct port kit is far advanced than the normal single jet nitrous kit. A direct port kit will have 4 individual nitrous jets (or nozzels) located deeper within the intake manifold. As you can see the intake manifold starts as one entryway of air, then branches off into 4 separate smaller "ports" each of these ports are for a different cyl. When nitrous is sprayed though one jet in the main entrance on the intake manifold (6" b/f tb) it sometimes does not have great distribution, meaning the nitrous gets split up un-evenly between each cyl. This can result in some cylinders running richer or leaner than the others. Direct port kits will put a single jet in each of these "ports" to ensure perfect nitrous distribution. This will also allow you to run bigger "shots" of hp.

Do you need direct port? No you dont, unless you have a high-horsepower engine that will take a 100-125+ shot of nitrous, and reqires perfect tunning. Anything from 35-100 (maybe even a tad more) will only require a single jet

Differece between a DRY kit and a WET kit: The difference is simple. A WET kit will have Nitrous AND Fuel injected (and mixed) through the Same nitrous jet (nozzel). That means two solenoids, two lines, one jet. A DRY kit will have one solenoid, one line and one jet. It only injects nitrous, and the needed fuel is added by Ecu through injectors.

Do you need wet or dry? This is simple as well, is your car turbo or not? If it is turbo, you need a wet kit. If you have a N/A then dry will be fine. Thats that.

The stock fuel system: The stock fuel system can be more than capable to handel just over 300 hp, maybe more. Im not exactly sure what it can be capable of, and im not willing to find out. Basically, if you have any kind of upgraded turbo, and want to run nitrous, you will need to upgrade the fuel system. How you upgrade it is determined on what turbo you have. But if you still have the ct-26, or maybe even the ct-20b, then the stock fuel sys will be fine.
 

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"from gotime242"
Here are my views on the different kits:

Nitrous Express

This is the kit to have. I have installed a nitrous express kit on my car, with great results. Nitrous express has designed a jet (nozzel) that has some interesting way of mixing/injecting the nitrous and fuel. THe nozzel design is great for turbo applications because you are not required to retard the timming at all untill higher hp shots are used. This nozzel design is also safer for detonation concerns. And the people and customer service at NX are GREAT!! Always willing to help...

ZEX

Ah yes...the purple bottle. I installed this kit on a buddies car. Let me tell you, this thing was a breeze to install. It was done before we knew it. It truely is "plug n' play". The quality is decent as well. I dont know why people seem to look down on it. I guess the ease of it makes people question it. So, i would say this is a good dry kit, and great for a N/A car, but DONT even think about putting it on a Turbo car.

NOS

Nitrous Oxide System...the superstar of the nitrous industry, or as most of you would say..."NaWz" jk Well im sorry to say i dont know much about them, i have never delt with their kit. I do know that parts are available to fix most of the kit, instead of replace most of it if something happend. And they are quality kits. However, NX makes a better nozzel.

Those are the top three big name ones, there is also Venom, which is not really for us, and is hella expensive. And Others like Nitrous Works, and stuff like that that i have never delt with.

The best one for a turbo car is hands down NX. And for a N/A, any will do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
"from sallystrothers"
Well this is one of the best websites regarding nitrous information. They accurately explain the chemical processes that go on in the combustion process. They also say why the Zex system has BIG problems and should be avoided at all costs.

http://www.beyond-designs.com/nitrous.htm


They have a very good bottle warmer analysis and how to avoid blowing up your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
from hampster o death
My (probably noob) question about nitrous is when do you start normally engaging nitrous? What gear, at what RPMs, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
from icyjaws
when to use it?
Well you have to realize the soon you use it the more advantage you get from it. I found a calculation on some page that prolly long gone by now. If you were to run a 100 shot at 2000 i think it gave an addtionial ~220 ft-lb and at 3000 it was only like 160 or so. The reason for this is your always added the same amount of fuel and N20 (all things being equal*). At higher rpm's that same amount of fuel and n20 is being put into more combution cycles per sec. Therefor of course the sooner you can use it and get traction the better also it will spool a turbo faster cause of the 'added' air flow.

*There are several ways that the amount of fuel and n20 can be varied. 1) Is a progressive control which was disgusted earlier. 2)A riseing rate fpr will add more fuel because of the rise in pressure. This is a problem when tunning any shot on a turbo car off the existing fuel system. Because your stuck either running lean off boost or extra rich on. This is why some poeple run a seperate fuel system for larger shots.

As for say a semi-stock 2 i can only give my experance. When at the track i had it set up to go on as soon as I went wot. I would rev to like 3.5-4k. Drop the clutch and slam the gas. The car would drop to like 2k before i got on the gas. then intant spool and one hell of a launch
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
from gotime242
I think i read that before about the zex...no one i know has had any problems yet with it.


Could someone please post the Nitrous Express Jet Size Chart? Like which jet sizes (n2o and fuel) are for which hp. I lost mine and want to use a 65 shot now but dont know which it is, and it will also be good to have on the Faq.


On the subject of using nitrous. It is very hard to concentrate enough to hit it right when you want it to. You will need to practice a few times before you get it down. The 1st time i ran it i paniced and burned through 1st and 2nd gear, 2nd time i ran it i forgot to hit it till top of 3rd, and etc...

The best would be to arm it before teh race, and control your foot to go as much as you can in 1st with out spraying it, then the minute you know you have good traction, go the extra 1/2 inch on the pedal to spray it. I usually just hit it in 2nd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
from bean
when to hit the nitrous? this is different for every car and every driver. with a turbo mr2 your are slipping out of the hole so you dont want to hit it in first gear. and the rest of the track if you are hooked up and going straight.remember only hit it at full throttle,under load, and stay away from the rev limiter.

i will get the last picks up today.
james

this was orginally posted by todd t:from my experience
I have been using nitrous on my 93 mr2 turbo for 2 years.

On a stock motor with no internal work, t3/t4 , greddy ic...and all other bolt ons I have injected 50hp nitrous at 16 psi for at least 50 1/4 mile passes. I have aslo had boost spike to 17 psi during a 1/4 mi pass.

at lower boost, 12-13psi i haved sprayed 75hp

nitrous kit was from nitrous express, wet kit using their recomended jets. mixture was fairly rich, i have no fuel controler and all factory fuel system

I know have 150k miles on my unopened engine and compression is still 159-175 on all 4 cylinders.

my friend injects 50 shot NOS dry kit at 15 psi on a TD06. My 50 shot hits twice as hard as his does.

hope this helps.
 

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from bean

PART 4
...with pictures.

This is the bottle properly mounted and secured in the trunk.
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq013_jpg.jpg

This is the rubber gromet i used to run the feed line out of the trunk.
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq014_jpg.jpg

This is a close up of the micro switch mounted on the throttle cable support bracket. Notice how the end of the throttle cam will close the switch.
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq015_jpg.jpg

Here is a better picture of the micro switch. Remember I use this "full throttle switch" to complete my circuit for the ground on my solenoids.
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq016_jpg.jpg

This is a good pic of how I mounted my solenoids to the extra bracket on the air fuel meter.
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq017_jpg.jpg

One more shot from the side. The white rag is only used to block out the backgroud since i do not know how to edit pictures with colorful lines.
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq018_jpg.jpg

This is a blury pic of the fuel tap from the top of the car.
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq019_jpg.jpg

Ah yes, a much better picture from the bottom. Notice how the fuel tap simply screws into the special banjo bolt from the B&M fuel pressure kit.
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq020_jpg.jpg

One more pic from the bottom.
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/nitrousfaq/images/nitfaq021_jpg.jpg

This fuel line is only about 14 inches long, just enough to reach the solenoid.

This FAQ will often be updated so come back and check it out.

NEXT is a dyno run on and off the bottle to show the gains of nitrous, till then happy boosting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
from dmitri
Can someone explain how boost and nitrous work together, and how 50 or 100hp shots effect net compression ratio? How much is too much on a built motor? What if octane is raised?

I know nitrous helps stock cars, but I find it curious that 25% of the import drag racers I've seen profiled are on nitrous.

Thanks,
-dp
 

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from bean

How does boost and nitrous work together?

Very well, the cooling effect of the nitrous entering the engine greatly lowers intake temps. On our cars we (nitrous users) have the ability to tune/adjust air fuel ratios by changing jets. It's a must to turn down the boost and start with a small jet when tuning your car. If you run 17 psi off the bottle you will hit 20 psi with a 50 shot and this could push your engine past its limit (I.E. hitting fuel cut). I like to think "boost is a byproduct of nitrous". You are going to gain a positive combustion pressure when using nitrous ,which is measured as above atmospheric pressure. I have found one web site that has a page of calculators that you can convet boost psi into new compression ratios, but not nitrous.
The expanding oxygen mollecules are going to raise the compression ratio in the combustion chamber. How much I do not know.

How much is to much on a built motor?

The sky is the limit, on a fully built race prepped engine you can shoot as much as twice the horsepower or more. On a stock engine a good rule of thumb is never more than half the stock power. Pat musy shoots so much juice he goes through 2 10 pound bottles per run.
Does race gas help on the bottle? Race gas helps anytime,it just raises the safety factor by fighting ping.

Why do most import guys use nitrous?

1) N/A engines do not respond well to cheap mods,it's hard to make high power in a N/A.
2) Its the best bang for the buck. it's just plain cheap.
3) It helps win races on the track of course.
4) Cool factor from the movie
5) If they have a turbo its awesome power adder,and helps spool the big turbos for more low end power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
from fastmister2
Wow, this is great. In 15-20 min. I have learned twice as much as I knew before hitting this thread. Now, I think i understand the basics on how this works. I was thinking a wet NX/NOS kit the entire time.

I have a 91 turbo with 120k miles. The tranny/drivetrain is basically new (new fly, stage 1 clutch, and a 5k tranny w/LSD). i also have an upgraded Ct-26 (garrett 66 comp. wheel), along with a KO racing dp and exhaust. Furthermore, i am running 9psi on the turbo. I also have a lot of new gaskets and water pump/timing belt. Compression is 190-195 on all cylinders and timing is perfect. I'm telling you guys this, to get a good idea of the condition of the motor/set up....(stock internals, btw)

So, now, the question of nitrous. First, i want to know where i can get a wet kit. Second, would you recommend a direct port? (my guess is Yes.) I'm planning on a 50 shot, and no more. I am also thinking of piecing my nitrous system together. Is this recommended? is this a cheaper route? Also, why are there NO direct port wet kits for sale online? I need some websites, because I think i'm lost in that category.

Also, i havent heard any talk on the RPM device. Where nitrous hits at a certain RPM. Someone care to explain how this works? I could ask a million more questions, so, i'll leave it right now.

Thanks!
 

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from bean
For starters,
1)http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/NOS.html
2)http://www.barrygrant.com/nitrousworks/frames/index.htm
3)http://www.venom-performance.com/nf/html/vcn-2000.htm
4)http://www.nitrousexpress.com/welcome.htm
5)http://www.nitrous-power.com/
6)http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html
Please check out the links above!
Fastmister2: your engine sounds up to the task,but your compression seems a little to high. it might be carbon build up which might be a problem in the future.you see if you have a lot of carbon in the combustion chamber it can glow red hot and cause the aif/fuel mixture to ignite before the spark plug does,causing pre ignition or ping. you might want to get a top end cleaning from toyota it runs about $100.00.
Next thats a pretty big turbo and using nitrous to "spool it up" would work wonders for lower e.t.'s.
Direct port is a good thing if you can afford it,the cost's of the kit gos way up. try e-mailing sallystrothers for direct questions regarding his 100 shot direct port system.
And buy a wet kit. If you want to hybrid it thats ok,like i use a "NOS" powershot nitrous solenoid,and a "nitrous works" fuel solenoid.

I think you are wanting info on progressive coltrollers right?
Nitrous Mastermind




The biggest breakthrough in nitrous systems in 25 years. Nitrous Mastermind always delivers full engine protection from nitrous damage. With more consistent and lower ETs, Nitrous Mastermind fits all nitrous systems and safely allows use of bigger nitrous systems for more safe, useable horsepower. Attractive, high-tech design, judged by Car Craft as "One of the best new products". EASY TO INSTALL !
HOW NITROUS MASTERMIND (NMM) WINS RACES:

1. More Safe Nitrous Power
NITROUS FACT: Any engine can handle more nitrous in proportion to engine rpm. (At 6,000 rpm it can safely handle twice the nitrous of 3,000 rpm.)
THE NMM ADVANTAGE: The unique variable flow controller (patent pending) increases nitrous flow in direct proportion to engine rpm, allowing safer use of a bigger nitrous system.


2. Too much nitrous too early hurts ETs.
NITROUS FACT: If you are using a strong nitrous system, it causes you to lose traction.
THE NMM ADVANTAGE: Brings in just the right amount of nitrous for max tyre traction but just under the point of tire slip. As speed increases, NMM brings in the max traction amount of nitrous, which leads to lowest possible ETs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
from bean
Part two "mastermind"

3. Consistently Lower ETs.
NITROUS FACT: It is more difficult to shift at the same consistent rpm when on nitrous.
THE NMM ADVANTAGE: The built-in bright red LED comes on at your optimum shift point so you can consistently obtain your lowest ETs.

4. Fools Competitors
NITROUS FACT: With nitrous, you can often beat your opponent so badly that nobody will race or bet you, so you lose money.
THE NMM ADVANTAGE: While racing, you can turn the dial on your dash the right amount to always just win!

HOW NITROUS MASTERMIND SAVES ENGINES:

1. Burned Pistons
THE DANGER: Fuel pressure can unexpectedly drop in any engine: clogged line or filter, fuel pump goes bad, etc. This will cause nitrous to burn holes in pistons and valves.
THE CURE: NMM saves your engine by automatically shutting off the nitrous in 1/100th of a second when fuel pressure fails.

2. Nitrous Detonation
THE DANGER: To eliminate engine-destroying detonation, nitrous requires 4 - 10 degrees ignition timing retard. However timing retard without nitrous causes loss of power and mileage and fouls the spark plugs during normal driving.
THE CURE: NMM switches in a retard timing curve only when nitrous is flowing.

3. Over-Revving - common with Nitrous
THE DANGER: Over-revving breaks engines much faster when on nitrous. Normal rev-limiters work by cutting the ignition, allowing nitrous to fill up the exhaust system, then destroy it when the ignition re-sparks.
THE CURE: NMM stops flow of nitrous 50 rpm before limiting the spark, preventing exhaust system damage.

4. Nitrous at Too Low an RPM Bends Rods
THE DANGER: If you accidentally flow nitrous at too low an rpm, you can easily bend your connecting rods.
THE CURE: NMM's unique, 100% alert rpm-sensing mechanism prevents the nitrous from flowing at too low an rpm, even if you accidentally activate it at idle.

FOUR DIALS TO SET UP ANY NITROUS SYSTEM FOR MAXIMUM AND SAFE PERFORMANCE:
1. Lets you decide how many degrees to retard timing when nitrous cuts in. Stops detonation, increases performance.
2. Sets rev limit where red LED shift indicator comes on, nitrous shuts off and rpm limits.
3. Selects the rate at which nitrous cuts in - from all-at-once to the most gradual, where full or partial nitrous isn't achieved until full engine rpm.
4. Determines the lowest safe limit at which nitrous can cut in.

FOUR LED INDICATORS TO KEEP YOU INFORMED:
RED Signals you're at the optimum shift point.
YELLOW Tells you your fuel pressure has dropped so low that NMM has taken protective steps.
GREEN Warning you've thrown the main activator switch and your nitrous is armed.
ORANGE Nitrous is flowing NOW - all systems check OK.

Keep it coming! James
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
from fastmister2
Thanks a lot Mr.bean. you gave all the advantages and pluses......now what is the price???? hahaha.....take a look at this link. I am currently bidding on it. this is the device that activates nitrous (no, not NOS ) at a certain RPM I think this is a great way to tune nitrous systems to peak performance.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...404336&rd=1

Now, this is a NOS window switch that requires a chip to work. Right now, I've decided to piece my kit together. Now, if I use this device/chip, would i need to use a micro switch? In my eyes, I would say no, but I could be dead wrong. btw, I wont be doing nitrous for at least 4-5 months. I want to learn about it first.........just assuring you I'm not jumping too soon (but i'm buying pieces as I go!)

I REALLY need a list of EVERYTHING in a nitrous kit. Since I'm a broke college kid, I cant afford to drop 700-800 on a brand new NX/NOS kit. I want to get on ebay. find a good used bottle, good jets and solenoids, and basically piece this together.

Who says I shouldnt direct port? because of a low shot?? From stories i hear/read, I want to stay far away from the throttle body and as close as I can get to the cylinders...?????. I'm getting the idea that a single port on the intake/IC pipes may cause problems with compression on the turbo MR2s. Correct me if I'm wrong. If I single port it, nitrous will flow to wherever it wants to go. And, If I tap in on the IC pipes, even with a wet kit, the nitrous would not be evenly distributed to each cylinder....I think this would be a disaster. Anyone agree? disagree? I'm going to save a buck by buying good used items, but I wont save the buck when it comes to doing nitrous correctly (this is my daily )

correction on the compression. on cylinders 1-3, I'm getting compression anywhere between 190 and 205. On cylinder #4, I'm getting 185. I spit those numbers out earlier today, without thinking right....What is this cleaner stuff? and how do I use it? What does it do? Will this cleaner lower compression? If there IS carbon built up, is this flamable??? can nitrous ignite? I wouldnt be surprised if there was carbon buildup. The car is 13 yrs old, but I think its in fine shape (being stock all its life).

thanks a lot for your help!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
from bean
Kevin, if i was you i would save the 500.00 for a new kit. you never know what you get when you buy used. a controller or activator is going to be the last thing you will need. a bottle heater,purge kit, and blanket should be first. six inches from the throttle body is the rule with a wet kit. if you are only going 50,then i would just fab up something like i did. and yes your compression is to high, it should not be past 165-170. if you want to buy everything seperate you are going to pay 200.00 for the bottle,200.00 for both solenoids,and buku bucks on ssb line and fittings,but your still missing all the small stuff.and just call me bean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
from fastmister2
How come i knew you were going to say that???

yeah, used is sometimes bad. I might just save money, rather than parts. But, nevertheless, I'm going to need the acutator/controller...right? wouldnt I need that before the bottle blankey/heater??

Now, how in the heck can I get my compression down to 165???

Also, if this was your car, would you direct port it? or single? Assuming a wet kit. I'm confused now. I thought direct wet shot was the way to go...

Also, of the sites you gave me, I have been to all except two. I cant find an MR2 turbo direct port wet nitrous kit ANYWHERE.....And I thought those nitrous kits were 700-800 bux...not 500. Are you in the nitrous business? Do you have something I would like for sale???

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
from bean
Also, if this was your car, would you direct port it? or single? Assuming a wet kit. I'm confused now. I thought direct wet shot was the way to go
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from the bottom to the top a dry system is okay for a N/A car, a wet is a must for a turbo car, and a direct port wet kit is the NSX compared to the integra. its a lot better if you can afford to do it but like gotime said its not a must on a 50 shot. the 500.00 per kit is a average cost,and no you are not going to find a directport kit for the mr2 it will be custom from a place like this.http://www.bottleblownracing.com/ try to find one in your area. mark deana owns bbr and he makes custom kits but not if your car isnt there. look in your home town for race shop like his.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
from gotime242
Nitrous Inventory: for an NX WET kit.

-Bottle (10-15lb)
-Bottle fitting (So nitrous line can fit on bottle)
-Bottle brackets (2), Bottle braket bolts (to floor)(4), and Top tightening bolts (2)

-Steel Braided Lines: Two n2o, and two fuel lines.
1-Bottle-> n2o solenoid (sol.)
2-N2o sol-->nozzel
3-Fuel line-->Fuel sol.
4-Fuel Sol.-->nozzel
-Fuel line metal "T" clamps, and fittings, this is to tap into the fuel system.

-Solenoids: Two, one n2o one fuel.
1-Fuel sol.
2-Nitrous sol.
-Nitrous FILTER, will be on line, right before n2o sol.
-Solenoid brakets and small screws. (To mount the solenoids)

-Nitrous Jet or "Nozzel"
-The jet itself (1)
-The two (2) fittings, (fuel and n2o fitting that will hold the diff. jet sizes, and connect the fuel and n2o Lines to the nozzel/jet.
-Jet location Fitting, this will secure the jet onto the intake, the jet screws into this, this is mounted/screwed in the intake, to ensure good seal/mount.
-Different Jets: Fuel and Nitrous Should have about (8) in all. They are small, dont lose them, and dont mix them up.

-Electrical!!!-
-One WOT switch.
-One Master arming switch (should have red cover over it like in fighter jet...)
-One relay Switch (this is a black box with (4) wires comming out of it. Its not an actual manual switch.

-WIRES!!--
- Two wires comming out of each sol. One ground, one (+).
- The previously stated (4) wires comming out of relay.
- One wire TO the WOT switch, one comming out of it, GOING TO the master arming switch.
-That same wire to the mast. arm switch, then another from the mas. arm switch to the car's (+).

-INSTRUCTIONS!!!-- <---- VERY IMPORTANT!!!!
-this will show you what all the wires do, i didnt have it, and hasd to figure it out on my own...

And some other little things like stickers and what-not.

***NOTE: someone please post the N2o and FUEL Jet Size/HP Chart!!!!! FOR NX!!! *** ~thx

I think thats it... I would recommend a nitrous Gauge as well. Also, if your going to locat the bottle in the trunk, i would recommend changing the 14-16ft nitrous-->sol. line, to a 3-4 ft one, which would only be like 15-20 bucks. This will make it hit harder, simplify intallation, exclude the need for a purge kit, and keep you from wasteing a lot when you have to work on it, or take the line off to fill the bottle.
 
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