Well it took me long enough, but here are some new pictures and an update of whats going on!
Here is a link back to part 1 just in case this is your first time reading Gen 3.5 Swap Part1
Also a link to my harness building thread since its a bit more indepth, figured Id link to it here since some of you probably would like to know more of what Im doing in that respect.
Ive been on hiatus for about the last 2 weeks because of vacation, so not alot has happened, but since the last time ive made a bit of progress on the harness and ive began cleaning and sandblasting my tranny to prep it for paint.
I have decided on saving up for a while so that I can buy the EFR 7670, the proEFI pro128, and some ID 1000 injectors. That said, its going to be 2 or 3 months before I have all of these in my posession.
Tomorrow I head down to pick up my suspension, (not that you MR2 guys care that much) but im excited. Its a set of B&G 1.5 lowering springs and koni yellows and whiteline camber bolts.
Good stuff man .. im glad you are going to be using a 7670 i would really like to see the power you get out of it and how quickly it will spool cause i was looking at the 8374 and the 7670 but cant wait till your done so i can see some numbers...
Are u getting the kit from EMSpowered ?
P.s i care about suspension more than anything else ,just to make u feel better lol
Well, unless I can source the J&S interceptor for $1000 or less, then Ill probably be going with the 128. But If i can find an interceptor for less then I will definitely go with the pro48.
Good stuff man .. im glad you are going to be using a 7670 i would really like to see the power you get out of it and how quickly it will spool cause i was looking at the 8374 and the 7670 but cant wait till your done so i can see some numbers...
Are u getting the kit from EMSpowered ?
P.s i care about suspension more than anything else ,just to make u feel better lol
Since ive got an alltrac, you cant run a top mount turbo. And for me to even think about getting baktash's kit, id have to somehow get my car down there to him because a bottom mount equal length manifold that clears the A/C and doesnt hit my radiator or hood is quite a daunting task and would most likely cost me my left testicle.
My solution is one of these two things...
Weld this to the manifold (MR2Josh said he might be able to tackle this...)
Or take and fill the stud holes up, have it remilled, then have it redrilled in the T4 locations and take a die grinder to the outlets so that they match up right.
As for the suspension, they are the yellow konis with the little knob on the top for adjustment.
Well, unless I can source the J&S interceptor for $1000 or less, then Ill probably be going with the 128. But If i can find an interceptor for less then I will definitely go with the pro48.
I had thought they were around 500, but prices always go up.... Basically I'm fairly sure I'm going the pro48 and j&s, hopefully I don't get a nasty surprise...
Feel free to stop by my harness building thread too... I will be posting some updates tonight in there for all of you guys who might be interested in my mil-spec harness conversion.
I was going back through my old thread and wanted to share something. The best way to get the fipg out of the gen3/4 oil pan grooves is to use tolulene (thanks MANDALAY) to loosen them up. Then I used a dental spudger to scrape as much as i could out. Then more tolulene to loosen the leftovers up. And then Pressure washered it with the needle point tip.
I was going back through my old thread and wanted to share something. The best way to get the fipg out of the gen3/4 oil pan grooves is to use tolulene (thanks MANDALAY) to loosen them up. Then I used a dental spudger to scrape as much as i could out. Then more tolulene to loosen the leftovers up. And then Pressure washered it with the needle point tip.
I could have swore I texted you toluene or xylene or any strong solvent would remove that stuff really well. I just throw my stuff in the parts washer and the solvent in there makes it swell and scrapes away super easy.
Haha - you put a name to my frankenmotor! Its always such a mouthful to tell people I went Gen4 block to Gen3 head. Gen3.5 is so eloquent
Sorry I dont get on this board very much, I probably could have helped with your oil cooler and water line stuff, I did this hybrid a long time ago (2008?). I'll look around to see if I have pics of how I routed everything, but I used a bone stock OEM Gen4 block (and IIRC Gen3 oilling with custom water routing using AN lines/fittings). Here are a few pics:
(pretty sure thats the Gen4^^, just grabbed the pics that I recall were gen4?) If theres any interest I'll dig thru my folders and see if I have pics of how I did the oil/water routing. I CAN tell you it is my favorite motor I have ever used. It may be my imagination, but I feel like offboost was improved by the higher CR. The engine is just a blast to drive. I run a stock FW and CM/ATS Stage 4 unsprung puck clutch btw - my last gen3 had a LWFW and I hated the way it drove.
Aaron does tell me the block is weaker than a Gen3. BUT. I am making ~340whp on pump gas and I flog it regularly on pump gas (on an 80% tune) and it asks for more. I dont put a ton of miles on it but when I drive it I drive it HARD. Still has yet to require ANY maintenance and I would build it again
Aaron does tell me the block is weaker than a Gen3. BUT. I am making ~340whp on pump gas and I flog it regularly on pump gas (on an 80% tune) and it asks for more. I dont put a ton of miles on it but when I drive it I drive it HARD. Still has yet to require ANY maintenance and I would build it again
I dont know what Aaron is talking about, but its pretty obvious that the gen 4 block is significantly stronger than the gen 3.... It has the revised water pump area, and the casting is beter quality. My machinist actually commented on the difference. He said that the gen 4 casting was a much harder material than a gen 2 He was also working on.
The weak part in the gen 4 is the rods... not the block itself.
Its really cool though that someone else out here has done something similar!
Before I do i want some input. I finally got a lower head side shield. Wondering if I should coat it red or if I should leave it black? Its never really seen.. Thoughts?
If I do coat it I might also coat the alternator bracket...
I've done it before. It's perfectly fine. The key is to heat up the cast iron and slowly cool it after to avoid the cast from forming precipitates that weakens the casting.
I've never personally tried I guess. I've taken a few welding classes and its never been covered, I've asked and they said to avoid it if possible lol.
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