[azmr2]

I put this on the newbie FAQ section, but maybe it belongs here. I'm trying to set the tensioner gap for a new timing belt on my engine rebuild and I'm running in to a problem. Seems like this should have been asked and answered many times by now but I can't find the answer in my searches:
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?p=1641317#post1641317
Thanks for any help.

 

[Mister2slow]

1.90MM(0.075IN)
ALSO YOU HAVE TO TURN THE #1IDLER PULLEY BOLT COUNTERCLOCKWISE WITH 180KG-CM(13FT-LB) TO OBTAIN THE SPECIFIED TORQUE.

 

[azmr2]

1.90MM(0.075IN)
ALSO YOU HAVE TO TURN THE #1IDLER PULLEY BOLT COUNTERCLOCKWISE WITH 180KG-CM(13FT-LB) TO OBTAIN THE SPECIFIED TORQUE.

Thanks for repeating what I already related in my question (see link). As I said, that's what I've already done, but after pulling the pin and then turning to the 60 degree ATDC mark (as shown in the BGB) there is NO gap--(metric or standard )when I apply the counterclockwise 13 lbs to the #1 pulley. In fact, the pulley won't even move at that level of force because the belt is too snug.
Apparently it has something to do with where the slack is in the belt when you put it on?---The BGB says the intake side should have no slack. Or maybe you're supposed to turn the crank 1 2/3 turns instead of 2/3 turn to get to the 60 degree ATDC mark? I can't believe there isn't a Sticky on the MKII board about replacing the timing belt?

 

[Byron]

If you set the gap, tightened the adjuster, rotated the crankshaft, and the clearance was gone, then you do it again. You are measuring the clearance between the tensioner body and the idler pulley stopper, correct?

 

[azmr2]

^? I'm measuring the gap between the tensioner shaft and the #1 pulley stop (or whatever it's called) and then tightening the tensioner bolts----like the BGB says. The tension on the belts seems fine, and the motor rotates fine, it's just that there is no "gap" when I measure it at the 60 degree mark.

 

[Mister2slow]

Thanks for repeating what I already related in my question (see link). As I said, that's what I've already done, but after pulling the pin and then turning to the 60 degree ATDC mark (as shown in the BGB) there is NO gap--(metric or standard )when I apply the counterclockwise 13 lbs to the #1 pulley. In fact, the pulley won't even move at that level of force because the belt is too snug.
Apparently it has something to do with where the slack is in the belt when you put it on?---The BGB says the intake side should have no slack. Or maybe you're supposed to turn the crank 1 2/3 turns instead of 2/3 turn to get to the 60 degree ATDC mark? I can't believe there isn't a Sticky on the MKII board about replacing the timing belt?

Sorry, i didn't click on the link.

 

[st185]

Ok i see exactly whats going on here

After you pull the grenade pin for the tensioner, and rotate the crankshaft. You are supposed to be measuring between the tensioner body not the shaft. At this point the shaft is going to be pushing with some force against the pully stop, you wont get any gap here. You are supposed to measure from that same pully stop, to the tensioner body.

Here is a link to the BGB for a alltrac (same 2nd gen 3sgte engine)

 

[st185]

Top picture, little zoomed in view. Measure between the pully stop flange sticking out and the body of the tensioner. Hopefully yours is the same.

 

[Byron]

^? I'm measuring the gap between the tensioner shaft and the #1 pulley stop (or whatever it's called) and then tightening the tensioner bolts----like the BGB says. The tension on the belts seems fine, and the motor rotates fine, it's just that there is no "gap" when I measure it at the 60 degree mark.

As st185 as pointed out, that would be the problem. I do believe you are supposed to measure from the body both times.

 

[azmr2]

Top picture, little zoomed in view. Measure between the pully stop flange sticking out and the body of the tensioner. Hopefully yours is the same.

Right on st185 and Byron (Byron, I just didn't realize what you were asking). I knew there were some genius's on here :thumbup I took a closer look at the BGB (and your pics) and you're absolutely right. I was measuring at the shaft, not the tensioner body. I had to pick up some parts at the dealer today and had a chance to talk with one of the tech's---he pulled up the same page on his pc and we still couldn't figure it out. Thanks to everyone else also who pitched in.
For another mystery, check this out :http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=161707

 

[azmr2]

Just to finish this up---armed with the correct measuring point; it only took me 5 more tries (ok, 8) to get the correct measurement without either the cam pulleys being off their mark back at TDC, or the crank pulley going out of position. You have to have just enough "slack" in the intake side to make it come out right, or else you need someone else to hold one of the three wrenches to keep the crank pulley from turning when you apply the 13 lbs. to the #1 pulley and tighten the tensioner! Unbelieveabe proceedure. I don't see how anyone does this with the engine still in the car (but then I guess the crank pulley isn't as likely to turn).

 

[Byron]

I am glad you got it; it is not easy to do, or even understand the BGB the first time.

 

[azmr2]

^I've rebuilt several MKI engines, including the SC's, and know that BGB pretty much by heart, but this is the first MKII motor I've done. The MKII BGB is really not as well written or as clear as the earlier books (even if you look more closely at the pics )