[Martin]

I have custom coilovers and end links on my mr2. The PO built the suspention. I know that my endlinks are shorter than stock and the tabs on the strut housing are mounted lower. What are the advantages of this?

Is it possible that there could also be too much tention on the sway bar with it like this? The front also has the same size links.

Martin

 

[MR2aMason]

My theory: The sway bar should be parallel with the ground. So, if you lower the body you also lower the sway bar in relation to the strut mounting point. Now you can adjust the endlink to keep the sway bar at an optimal position.

With the car on the ground and your weight in the drivers seat adjust the end links for optimal length.

I have a similar set up on my '86; however, I am using eibachs instead of coilovers. It does help some but I don't think there is a huge difference.

 

[Martin]

thanks.


Anymore input, Norm? anybody else?


Martin

 

[kameleon]

Uh... kinda off topic but what engine is that? lol Don't look like any 4age I have ever seen.

 

[Martin]

lol that's the big daddy, a gen3 3sgte... :smile:


Martin

 

[rwheelz]

Your shorter/lower mounted endlinks should make the bar stiffer, less torque at the attachment point than a longer endlink. Is the problem too much rear bar? Snap oversteer or something?

 

[Martin]

Your shorter/lower mounted endlinks should make the bar stiffer, less torque at the attachment point than a longer endlink. Is the problem too much rear bar? Snap oversteer or something?

no, this summer when i had it at the track both the front and rear had stuck like glue in the turns. I spun out once, but that was because of too much speed into the turn, and i took my foot of the gas at the start of the turn...oops

I was just worried if there would be too much tention on the mounting brackets, etc. I don't want them to get ripped out of the chassis.

I'm also going to look into other custom end links, these squeak too much after a few months use. Maybe David can shorten the Two's R' US. links?

Martin

 

[David Hawkins]

I can do a lot of things with my links.

If you need them shorter than 7.5" front stud to stud, I can put a stainless stud in the middle. Not as strong as the machined center for the stock length links, but still better than stock.

 

[Martin]

it's about 12.5 mm from center of each hole. That about 5'' from center to center.

What do you think you can do? I can't get any better ends for the shaft locally. If i was using a diffrent shaft thread size, i would be able to use greasable ends.




Martin

 

[David Hawkins]

I can make those...they're really short!

To beef up the center section (since it will just be a threaded stainless stud), I could fill the area between the ends with jam nuts and washers.

 

[Martin]

Will the center section shaft look like the regular links you sell?

What i mean is will the jam nuts, etc go inside the shaft for a clean look?


Martin

 

[David Hawkins]

They'd look something like this:

 

[Martin]

hmm, what would a pair of these run me?


Martin

 

[David Hawkins]

$89 plus shipping to Canada.

 

[Martin]

Let me think about it. I need to see what it would cost me locally to get a diffrent shaft and threaded ends with the greasable ends.


Martin

 

[kylemartin]

Let me think about it. I need to see what it would cost me locally to get a diffrent shaft and threaded ends with the greasable ends.


Martin

Martin, make your own end links, all you need is a drill press and a tap.

here are some pic's of the endlinks i made.

- aircraft spruce Grease able hiems
- aircraft spruce rod end seals
- 4130 chromoly contenting rod Drilled and taped

 

[Martin]

Martin, make your own end links, all you need is a drill press and a tap.

here are some pic's of the endlinks i made.

- aircraft spruce Grease able hiems
- aircraft spruce rod end seals
- 4130 chromoly contenting rod Drilled and taped

dam, that looks sweet. Unfortunatly i don't have the space to put a drill press. I like your ends with the grease nipples. What size are the threads on the ends? What you have would be perfect, just a little shorter lol.

Do you get any squeaky noises from the end links?

Martin

 

[kylemartin]

dam, that looks sweet. Unfortunatly i don't have the space to put a drill press. I like your ends with the grease nipples. What size are the threads on the ends? What you have would be perfect, just a little shorter lol.

Do you get any squeaky noises from the end links?

Martin

thanks, the thread size is 7/16"-20 , no squeaking at all, i have dust shields that go over the heim's to help hold the grease in and keep the dust out.

 

[Martin]

nice stuff Kyle, you want to make a set for good ol Martin? I'd pay for everything plus your time and labour?

If not, i understand. I'd have to go to plan b, that is lube my current ones every other day

Martin

 

[ITA-MR2]

As mentioned, the swaybar ends should all be level with the ground with the car setup as driven and with driver and nominal fuel aboard. They aren't in this pic, because the suspension is fully extended (on both sides), forcing the bar down. Shorter end links just bring the bar up. May be good; may not.

Shorter end links will not make the bar "stiffer". The attachment points on an adjustable bar allow you to select where the link attaches, making the lever arm on the bar longer or shorter. THAT is what affects the relative stiffness of the bar. (The bar in this pic is set on the "softest" position.)