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Discussion Starter #1
This isnt MR2 related, but it is audio related. I have an Infinity 10" in the trunk of my daily driver that has been giving me problems. At first it was the original leads that run from the basket to the cone. For some reason they stopped making a good connection on the ends. I removed them and soldered some pieces of regular wire in their place. Worked GREAT for a while, but it didnt take long for the vibration to cause them to shear off. Tried again using different wires, same result.

Now, any ideas a source for some sort of wire that wont have this problem? The original ones were kinda a braided looking wire, I think I need something similar to that, but I'm not sure exactly where to look.
 

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you are right. the wires typically are braided as they jump up and down when the sub moves.they need the reinforcement, like the wires you tried bending even metal say backstrap after a while will become weak and break. i do not know where you will find them but you could try using a crimp cap/o-ring terminal and screwing/soldering it to connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I went to several places arround town, no luck with anything similar. BUT, I did come up with an idea that might work.

I noticed that both times it broke it was right at the point where the wire exited the insulation before i soldered it on. That appeared to be the weak point, it probably did most of its flexing at that point as well. So I thought, if I can reinforce that area, maybe it will work. So I tried again with some light, fleixble copper wire, but this time I put pieces of heatshrink arround the solder joint and up onto the insulation of the wire. Hopefully that will move the motion (and thereby the stress) out to the center section of the wire. In that area, with no abrupt change like the insulation to no insulation transition, it will flex over a larger section and SHOULD work better.

I don't know if it will, only time will tell, but hopefully it does, I'm getting sick of fixing it.
 

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... so you removed the orig. leads and replaces them with a pice of stranded copper?

where is the new wires braking? (cone side or post side)

if its cone side you could alway adhere the copper wires to the back side of the cone for more reinforcement, works real good

if its bindings side than try having the wires wrap arround something solid befor making the joint
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, the original leads wern't making a good connection, the sub would randomly cut out. I traced the problem to those leads. I replaced them, and didnt save the originals (didnt think of the breaking problem at the time). I think i have had one break on the cone end and one on the terminal end. Luckily, the way the infinity subs are designed they have a solid copper strap that runs up the cone supported by a piece of plastic and then the wire attaches to that, so I have a place to solder too. Its not a problem with the solder joint, thats solid, the actual copper was fracturing due to the vibration. Hopefully the heatshrink thing helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just an update for anyone that is interested. The heat shrink trick seems to have worked. Its still working anyway, and its been almost a month since the repair. None of my other repairs lasted more than a couple of hours. Hopefully it doesnt break now because I talked about it:)
 
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