Lots out there. I guess the budget is the thing you'd need to look at. They do tend to bump compression up to 9 rather than the lower stock number in the 8s. I think the GEN3 3SGTE is lower than the GEN2. Maybe 8.5 vs 8.8.
Look up discussions on 4032 vs 2618 Aluminum for forged pistons. Long story short:
2618: Is low Silicon alloy, has a higher ductility than 4032 so it doesn't crack as easily (read: detonation less likely to damage them). But that has the draw back of making the piston expand more with heat, which means you have to run larger PTW clearances. Couple disadvantages to that: piston slap is a potential issue, and it allows the piston to rotate on the pin (piston rock). If you look at the piston rings and notice how they have flat sides with square edges, they're supposed to sit flat and square in the bore. Piston rock slowly wears the edges down and rounds the ring out, the ring lands also lose their shape slowly. It'll be significantly worn around 50-60k mi typically. Most 4032 makers recommend 0.030-0.035" PTW. Engine builders are nervous about having an engine lock up from too little clearance and will almost always want to go closer to 0.040", which is a lot.
4032: Is a high Silicon alloy, it is harder than 2618. It will crack more easily, but it expands less than 2618 so you can run PTW clearances about as tight as OEM. Your rings stay squarer in the bore and will last about as long as stock. They're ideal for street driven cars (99% of builds) but are less tolerant to operator error... Poor tuning and detonation namely.
Aftermarket cast: Just had a motor with a set of these I'm rebuilding. They seem like they duplicate the casting of the OEM piston, and are supposedly all sourced from Nippon pistons whom made the OE pistons, but who knows for sure. They seem OK but still made to be as cheap as possible. I've seen them for $30-40/piston.
Mahle is the only manufacturer that makes 4032 pistons for the 3SGTE (86.5mm ONLY) anymore, I just got a set. Their recommended PTW is 0.0016-0.0024". The coating on the pistons seems to be a bit under 0.001" thick so the "real" PTW is generally going to be a hair under 0.003", very close to stock.
After a hot run up a mountain road, pull over for some pictures, smell of plastic burning emanating from the engine area. Open up the engine cover, I noticed a top/cap is missing. Is it safe to drive til it’s replaced?
this says i should run 65ft/lbs, but the slip of paper says 36ft/lbs
i plan on running max of 20 psi eventually and dont wanna deal with another blown head gasket. also the gasket is a cometic MLS. thanks.
This is my first post ever, Im not sure if this is the right place to post this thread but my MR2 recently developed a new oil leak, I've owned the car for almost 2 years now, it always had a small oil leak and I could never really see where it was coming from but it was only a few drops a day...
My coolant hose blew on the freeway and I am having a hard time figuring out which coolant hose part number to order. I attached a couple photos with a red arrow to the hose that blew.
Some old forum post mentioned using a caravan coolant hose in place of one of the coolant hoses...
I am in the process of a engine build and all around upgrade of my Deuce over this winter and I am trying to come up with (without much success) what would be the ideal setup for the PCV system based around my power goal of 500whp. My 2 has a Gen2 engine and I do plan on running E85. With that...