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I don't know what got me sold on these. In retrospect it seems almost like a dumb idea. Kinda like how living a virtuous life is supposed to get you into heaven. What if there is no heaven? Well that is the essence of Pascal's Wager. You do it anyway.

I used these Stage 8 locking bolts on my E153 axle, when maybe all I needed to do was torque the stock bolts to spec, clean the threads, and use some blue Loctite.

To be perfecty frank, I was not at all impressed with the construction and quality of the locking system. Some of the cams were stamped very sloppily and barely fit on the bolt heads, and the snaplinks are completely flimsy.

Watch for features of the system, and details of installation

 

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This seems like a great place for Nordlock washers. Very simple, and I've never had a bolt come loose with one. They're pretty inexpensive as well.

 

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Ive used them on my Buell dragbike and liked them. But the cost, from what Ive seen, is not low. Other options for cheaper, for sure.
 

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This seems like a great place for Nordlock washers. Very simple, and I've never had a bolt come loose with one. They're pretty inexpensive as well.

On a tangentially related subject (other end of the axle), what do you think of Nordlock's for the axle nut? I know the endurance racers have had trouble with the stock sheet metal castle / cotter pin not staying tight, causing lose of bearing preload, leading to failures.
 

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On a tangentially related subject (other end of the axle), what do you think of Nordlock's for the axle nut? I know the endurance racers have had trouble with the stock sheet metal castle / cotter pin not staying tight, causing lose of bearing preload, leading to failures.
I seriously considered it for my car, but went all OEM there because of the unknown. Theoretically they’d work well.

So far the OEM castle setup has stayed tight on my car. I did have my S13 with a similar setup loosen the axles a few times, and I wanted to try a nordlock washer there. You’d need an M22 or 7/8” size. Worth a size.
 

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I seriously considered it for my car, but went all OEM there because of the unknown. Theoretically they’d work well.

So far the OEM castle setup has stayed tight on my car. I did have my S13 with a similar setup loosen the axles a few times, and I wanted to try a nordlock washer there. You’d need an M22 or 7/8” size. Worth a size.
I actually was all set to switch to them a few years ago, ordered a pair of them thinking that mean enough to do both axles (I knew they were used in pairs, but I assumed they were sold in pairs, and so if the quantity for sale was 2 that meant you got 4). Long story short, I ended up with one pair, and never bothered to order any more. But now having watched a few of their test videos I'm inclined to get another pair and actually install them.

(looking at my McMaster cart, it seems it may have just been the other site I bought them from that sold them that way. McMaster shows that it's a pack of 2, and in the cart says "pack of two pairs")
 

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Yea, need to sandwich the bearing in them so the whole nut assembly can’t spin off as I understand it with rotation being free.
 

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Yea, need to sandwich the bearing in them so the whole nut assembly can’t spin off as I understand it with rotation being free.
Hmm, so you are saying you might need a pair of them between the CV joint and the bearing, as well as between the bearing and the nut? I'm not sure that would work, for a number of reasons.
 

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Hmm, so you are saying you might need a pair of them between the CV joint and the bearing, as well as between the bearing and the nut? I'm not sure that would work, for a number of reasons.
The loosening mode where you have rotation freedom and one nordlock is that the whole stack (nut, nord lock, bearing race) all rotating together CCW so the nordlock never ups the tension. You have to overcome the race to axle friction for this to happen, so it’s not like it’s a given it’ll happen.

Two nordlocks make the tension go up when any side of the stack rotates.
 

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The single nordlock might still work well. Clean the bearing and axle face really well and see if it stays tight. If it’s getting enough vibe induce torque, it’ll be apparent pretty quickly.

I personally think the nordlock advice is really conservative, as it’s hard to get all those parts moving in the same direction with enough force. There’s only one vibrational mode that has all that mass spinning in the same direction, but it does only need to happen a few times to loosen it. Might be one of those 1e-7 probability events at reasonable vibe loading.
 

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The loosening mode where you have rotation freedom and one nordlock is that the whole stack (nut, nord lock, bearing race) all rotating together CCW so the nordlock never ups the tension. You have to overcome the race to axle friction for this to happen, so it’s not like it’s a given it’ll happen.
At first I thought this could be an issue, but I think you are forgetting about the hub. It's not locking against the bearing race, it's locking against the hub, and the the axle shaft is splined to the hub, so preventing the nut from rotating relative to the hub should be all that is needed.

Now, preventing the FRONT from loosening, yes you are correct that could be an issue.
 

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At first I thought this could be an issue, but I think you are forgetting about the hub. It's not locking against the bearing race, it's locking against the hub, and the the axle shaft is splined to the hub, so preventing the nut from rotating relative to the hub should be all that is needed.

Now, preventing the FRONT from loosening, yes you are correct that could be an issue.
Are people having issues with the fronts loosening if done up to the correct spec? Or is this just extreme race car stuff that most SW owners do not do?
 

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At first I thought this could be an issue, but I think you are forgetting about the hub. It's not locking against the bearing race, it's locking against the hub, and the the axle shaft is splined to the hub, so preventing the nut from rotating relative to the hub should be all that is needed.

Now, preventing the FRONT from loosening, yes you are correct that could be an issue.
Yep, that should remove the rotational DoF from the whole stack then, so one should work on the outside. Always helps to visualize it for me.
 
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