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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to apologize in advance for the long post...

Alright fellas I've posted here before about my interest in the v6 swap. Since then I've been reading up on the whole swap (I've been printing some of the stuff at work :D to put in the car and read while I'm stuck in traffic or if I'm not near a computer). One of the more helpful threads that comes to mind is Seth W's 1mzfe swap thread , there are a few others but that's the one that seemed to have a good amount of info. Anyhow, I've tried holding back from posting on this board until I thought I knew exactly what to do and/or really had questions. But after reading through some posts here there & toysrme's love for the 3vzfe, I started looking into that swap (the 3vz). So I went on toyotanation and a couple other boards to research the 3vzfe & the 1mzfe which led me to this post on toyotanation (it's my thread, any input?). For those that don't want to read it, I'm wondering what your opinions are on a 230-250rwhp power goal on either a 3vzfe or 1mzfe. Which would be more cost efficient? I?m still in the researching stages & still trying to figure out which engine is best for me.

Also, I had a few questions regarding the v6.

Who can actually do this swap & who is this swap for? Your average guy that has done 1 or 2 reg. engine swaps before? Or someone with lots of experience in every or several fields (welding, car electronics, etc)? I ask because I've only done a couple of swaps (one which was almost a complete car swap - interior manual to power door swap and 5s swap - from my old car into my current car that started out as a shell). Would I be better off just forgetting about this swap and take the easy way out with a 3s swap?

Now I don?t remember if I read this here, but I thought I read someone mentioning that something needs to be modified/custom made for the cooling system to be functional?

What would be the best fuel pump to go with for my final power goal? Will it hurt any if I stay n/a for a while? Turbo fuel pump, walbro 255lph or walbro 190lhp? In addition to this question, is the stock return fuel rail system better than an adjustable fuel pressure regular setup or visa-versa?

If I end up doing a 1mz swap I want to get the TRD SC? but the guys on toyotanation mentioned that the 1mz TRD s/c is now discontinued? How do would I go about picking one of these up later on (btw ? I plan on running an n/a v6 for a while)?

The flywheel situation is another thing that came to mind. I would love to have a light flywheel on any engine I end up getting, but I?ve seen a few contradicting things about compatible flywheels. On eBay and a few other sites they say that the 3s turbo flywheel will bolt onto the v6?s? but here on the board someone said that the 3s flywheel holes need to be filled up & re-drilled to the v6?s flywheel pattern. Fidanza also offers a flywheel for the v6?s which is different part # (#130881 ? Lexus 92-93 es300 - 3vz) compared to the turbo (#130331 ? 3s). I would ask on toyotanation, but then the starter engagement came to mind, which flywheel would be the better choice for my final setup? Also I read that the 5s starter would be best used in the v6 setup?

Our emission here really isn?t so bad, they don?t inspect anything really. They just throw the car on rollers w/ sniffers & simulate city & highway driving. If I were to go with the 1mzfe, would I be able to get them to test the car like other obd2 cars? I'm assuming I'd have to get my car inspected for the obd2 setup and do what Randy did to his car (or something similar to that)?

I have tons more questions but I can?t seem to think of them at the time, and I?m sure as i keep reading & researching a lot of them will be answered and/or I'll come up with more questions.

Any input would be greatly appreciated

TIA
 

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well I'd consider you to me in my place as I was at the time of the swap. I really lucked out and hooked up with a friend/badass toyota certified mechanic who has his own shop. Before then we hadent done a 1mz swap but were in the process of a 3uz (what ever tacoma motor is) as well as a 5sfe into a MK1 as well as a us spec bug eye celica with a 3sgte in it as well as na to turbo swaps....basically the knowhow but the the first hand experince. Now I'm sure zai or some of the other more knowlegeable guys will add something to this as well but here are my thoughts/suggetions.

yes a 3sgte is easier, no splicing of wires needed to my knowlege. For me I have never been in a day of shop class for cars, wireing diagrams are imtaditeing at first. You have to be able to tell what the car needs as well as where it's at to run and know where it's at from one to the other.....a hurdle....it's been done so if someone is REALLY nice I'm sure they can guide you through the process. Each swap will vary depending on year of the engine/wireing harness on both the MR2 and the donar car...it's all about the same but it isnt.

Also some fab work is needed, making a engine bracket on the pass side strut housing is a must, becuase with the other 3 (firewall, drivers side, crossmember) in you engine will lean....not good. we had a 220 welder...good. We probibly went overkill with the brackets (thickness) but better safe then sorry. To do this start by making one to go off of the bracket on the engine...mark the holes. one it's bolted in (looseily) set the engine height to where it's level. You can modify your stock bracket at this time but you'll want to be cutting some of it so instead of a O shaped motor mount. You make a fat D shape per say out of it. basically you cut off enough material to attach a plate of steel to go from that down to your bracket that comes off of the engine. I'm sure their are other ways and less "cheesy" ways but thats what I did....I think brad or mitch is doing a mount for that...less fuss.

Cooling system isnt a issue, it works, only issue is the temp sensor.. I have mine installed but it doesnt work... it's something to do on my end but the thing doesnt over heat. I'm sure it probibly doesnt run the best because it problbiy seeing cold all the time...hey it runs thats what counts:) everything else is secondary right?

I was told the na one doesnt keep up. a turbo one (MR2) or some sort of supra one works as well. turbo fuel pumps are cheap...fuel pumps are cheap go with what will meet your goals. If your running a stock turbo pump on a 10million psi supercharger it wont keep up. Other know more on this...I got a turbo one with a FPR...it works.

The fule system thing was a little confusing on reading up about it to me. as mentioned I run a FPR I'd assume it's a return style because it returns the left over gass to the tank...dont quote me on that. In making this so you need to tap both ends of the fuel rail...your 1mz only has one side (returnless) so you make both ends have threads to it....so it's gets gas and returns the left overs. The other threads have all the info on fittings and such...it's kind of pricey but hey the whole swap is...a 3sgte is less work.

I'm the same way on the sc. I lucked out and got one off the board 1200 for one with 25 or 30k on it with a 7psi pulley...It's probibly a good thing I didnt get it on their from the start. remember how you took it easy when you got the car, your going to have to do that again:( in stock form it's a blast. It's easily capable of punking out a stock turbo any day of the week from my experance. 1/4 mile time the turbo will have a little more speed at the end (V6 with turbo tranny vs 3sgte and turbo tranny) but you'll get him every time.

Dont really know about the flywheel I bought mine from brad or mitch (sorry guys forget who did what and helped me out where) it's the fadaza one...badass, it reves realy quick and is a great way to go. As for clutch you use a turbo one with it....stock works but doesnt take the abuse. If you like doing burnouts or doughnuts you'll glaze it...I'd think for track days this would be the case as well. My plan is to run a spec stage 3 on mine. For the reading it handles all the power and is preaty streetable. I'd recommend setting your hp torque goals for present and future and get one that meets both....clutches are a lot easier outside of the car than in it.

anything pre 94 isnt obd2....your car will set off a CEL because of the evap canister thing (mine did) I took out the bulb which "fixed" it. Put a cat on it dont tell them what you have and keep the egr on it.... it should pass min, didnt because I have yet to put the egr back in and they are considering it to be a 2.0 or 2.2L not a 3L.

Thats about all I know for now..I'm sure others will add to it to help you out. If you lived in oregon I'd say come to the shop if we/mostily zai wasnt so busy.

wow no wonder I never got good grades in english:)
 

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exhuast is a issue as well. brad or mitch makes a set of headers...badass but after doing the swap I ran out of money for it. I (Zai/me being the supervising technition) use the stock one that runs off of the headers. once it ends from their you'll need to do the fab work to get it out the back. We ran both a flex pipe, cat and muffler, get a bunch of mandrel bent tubeing pieces and go to town.

My plan is to get off my butt and deq it some day (4 months over due:)) once I pass take off the exhaust and run side pipes, that with the sc should be fun. If you copy me remember that I did it first:) It seems like a lot easier way to go less restrictions a I guess lighter weight... but that really doesnt matter...side pipes are cool.

Other things are the ac and cc I ditched both, again both can probibly be done, I didnt do it so I dont know.

axel/hub carrier bearings need to be addressed. 2 ways to go, either macine the differance needed to take up the gap from the axel with the bearing on it to fit inside the carrier bearing with no gaps or simpily mover the carrier assembily.
 

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Lots to answer. I'll do the flywheel one. :)

NO! You can't use a 3S flywheel. The 1MZ has a different bolt pattern than a 3S version. And the Fidanza really is the way to go. SO fast to respond, never an idle or takeoff issue.

For a 1MZ, the cooling lines work out more cleanly to reverse the radiator water flow. This screws with the stock temp sensor. (I make a replacement.) Also, you need to address a tach adapter. (I make that too.)
 

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I recommend both of Mitch's adaptors, cooling sensor and tach. And the fidanza IS the way to go, it rev's up SOOO fast. I've also got Brad's header's and custom exhaust piping, as well as the passeger side engine mount. Don't waste your time, buy these things from the guys who have done it and done it correctly. Brad's workmanship is first class!
Lastly, I don't know first hand, but have been told by those who have driven both, that the vvti engine is comparable in performance to the SC set-up. Something to consider if you are still in the engine choosing phase.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input guys? when I first read up on the v6 swap, I was set on the 1mzfe with the TRD S/C. and after much thought, I think I?m still going to stick to my original plan. If were to keep the car N/A I?d definitely go for the 3mzfe. If I were looking for monstrous power I?d go with a built 3vzfe? but I?m only looking for 250rwhp tops (I?d be happy with 230rwhp). If either Mitch or Brad is really making a mount? I?d definitely be interested since it would save me some time & trouble. Do you guys know if either the 190lph walbro or 255lph walbro fuel pump would meet my temporary stock N/A power, and then meet my max 250rwhp goal? I read that its best to keep the engine running rich so I?m assuming the 255lph walbro pump would be the better choice. The axle issue I?ll have to deal with later, after I get the tranny situation worked out? I plan on doing a hybrid tranny with the Solara v6 internals (i may have found a good deal on a v6 manual tranny) in a turbo housing. How difficult would it be to do this myself? Would it be smarter to take it to a professional?
Mitch, thanks for your input on the light flywheel, I?ll definitely be picking up a fidanza flywheel once I start gathering parts for the swap. Actually, I think I found a good deal on them on eBay ? I might pick one up sooner rather than later if that indeed is a good price? I'm assuming I'll need a custom clutch kit (3s Clutch, 1mz PP & 3s TOB)? Also, I?ll defiantly be getting in touch with you about that tach adapter & coolant temp sensor when the time comes.

I?ve also found a newbiemans(sp?) online wiring diagram guide?. Is it any more difficult if i use the 5s harness? Or would it be best to go out & get the 3s harness? (I know the wiring probably wont be the same for the same wiring for my swap but i'm posting it on here so that i can find it easily so that i can use it as an example when the time finally comes.)

lastly on the exhaust issue & supercharger issue, how difficult would it be to do these after the engine is in & running? I?m thinking locating a TRD S/C may take a while to find at a descent price? so I?ll just stick to the stock n/a 1mz until I locate the supercharger.

Well thanks again for the replies guys
 

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Email Brad and see if he has any Fidanzas, they were a bit cheaper than eBay. If he's out, BUY IT!

If it's a stock motor, the stock clutch should do you fine (whichever clutch comes with the motor you use.) I'm at 20K miles on mine with the Camry clutch, but I don't drag race it, so it's not getting a real beating. The trannies that you might use have similar bellhousing geometry, so the clutch and starter will not be issues.

The differences between 5SFE and 3SGTE harnesses is small, maybe 10% of the overall wiring. One thing to note is, you will be cutting up the donor harness, so you won't be able to sell the used motor with a complete harness. Not usually an issue.

Ask DaveMush about building the exhaust and then changing your mind later. That's a lot of work to do it twice.
 

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IF you really would be happy with 230rwhp, consider this: I have a basically stock 95 Turbo with 54k. I've run it in several DE's. My son has my original '91 SMG Turbo and had it professionally built and has done a fair amount of work himself. His car is FAST, Scary Fast. But it spends more time on blocks than on the road. He dynoed at 327 rwhp and will easily surpass 350 after he gets it re-tuned and dynoed again. But there is NO COMPARISON with the V6 VVTi when it comes to perfomance, reliability, cost and simplicity. Listen, I LOVE BOOST as much as everyone on this board, but if I were starting out right now, I'd find a way to install the Avalon 280 hp engine....and leave it n/a. Unbelievable performance, MUCH lower cost, easier to maintain, and much simpler. No worry about overboost, detonation, turbo cooling, water injection, humongous intercoolers, piping, bigger fuel pumps, injectors, fuel rails, and my god, did I mention stand alone ecu's? Everone that drives my V6 is hugely impressed ( no tribute to me, Brad Bedell did all the work) but having seen first hand all the cars in our club and at the last several regional meets, IMHO, I think this is not only the VERY best way to go, but the only way to go if cost, reliability, and simplicity are meaningful considerations along with mind-blowing performance. I'm a little extra excited about it right now, because I drove an 06 Avalon today and I'm still grinning from ear to ear! In fact, forget everthing I said above and go drive an Avalon and make up your own mind....(as stated in several posts, there will be a good deal of electrical work to pioneer, but then..............................
 

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Honest to god, If I could find one of these engines (2gr) I'd be all over it. I'd sell my 1mz, scrap my plans for a supercharged setup... I just want a bad ass, reliable, toyota tuned, daily driven Mr2 that will kick everyone else's set-ups to kingdom come.

Well, honestly, I dont care if anyone even knows what I have in the car. I just want to dirive the car like that. The stock 1mz set-up I had was enough to cause a grin on my face.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I didn?t want to start a new thread to ask this. This should be an easy question that hopefully one of you guys will answer. I?m still in my researching stages but I see good deals come up I?m taking them. Anyhow, about a couple weeks ago I purchased what I thought were some stock turbo motor mounts. Turns out that they were 3S-GE TRD motor mounts. Well? only the 3 tranny mounts had the TRD stickers on them. The fourth mount (passenger side mount) I?m not sure if it is TRD or if it?s even turbo motor mount (they guy that sold them to me, said that they came from an MR2 Turbo clip that he was parting out). The fourth mount looks like my 5s motor mount :confused:. So, finally down to my question. Will the mount that I bought work for the V6 swap (1MZ-FE), or do I need to look for another turbo motor mount?

5s passenger motor mount


the turbo motor mounts that I bought (haven?t had a chance to take pics of them myself)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
DaveMush said:
you seem to me missing the transmission side of the front mount. (the one against the firewall closest to the driver...)
There should be a plate or two that mounts to the transmission where the clutch slave cyl mounts as well.
darn! :( i got one plate with the mounts... (its in the pic) not sure if that is one of the plate that i need though. will the n/a mounting plate on the passenger cabin firewall not work? also, will i be fine with that 4th mount for the swap?
 

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I dont think that the 4th mount even used in the swap... As far as the plate you received, that is the one that mounts to the top of the transmission nearest the driver's side suspension/airbox area...



What I used was 3 mounts from the mr2 T (front near the firewall, left near the driver's side suspension, and rear near the crossmember.) and then Dan cut appart one of the extra 5sfe mounts to make the passenger side mount.

You will only be using 3 mounts, then you need to custom make the passenger side mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Oh, crap then I?ve been misreading some of the swap stuff. I thought with the 4th mount, all you had to do was make an "adapter" for it to hold the engine. The only reason I questioned my 4th mounts was because someone told me that the turbo & n/a mounts were significantly different. I was told the turbo mount is more compact & beefier than the n/a mount).
From what I understood about the swap was that there are a total of 5 mounts on the v6. You only use 4 if you are going SC (forget about the mount on the passenger side right next to the suspension). If you are staying n/a you can do all 5 or just do 4 mounts in the stock locations (which still required the 4th mount to be modified still). Also, since our cars only had 4 mounts to begin with the 5th mount is completely custom. Guess I?ll have to look into this again to make sure I?m reading everything right.

But this is what I thought we were doing with the 4th mount:

this looks like the mount i have
http://bulldog.unca.edu/~jmpersek/public_html/dsc_017.jpg

is this a turbo mount?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/sbcelicagt/Celica V6/fa9e893a.jpg

BTW - Dave thanks for the help :)
 

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yeah, i guess that is the one that is modified by some... Because it seems to be a cast material, Dan & I chose to utilize one of the old 5sfe mounts that was made out of steel. We used it, and welded directly off that to make the 90 degree angle to the 1mz engine.
It ended up being damn strong. To the point that the cast piece on the 1mz engine actually broke by the tourque of the engine (or the impact of a cevy celebrity wagon hitting the passenegr door....) But the mount dan constructed was actually stronger than the stock casting mounted to the side of the block.
 
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