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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got bored... and i wanted to reclaim my cabin space... took me about 3 days of (not so steady) work on it. The fosqate amp has sides to it... they're just not on it 'cause i wanted to tune it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, but i'll get some. they're just infinity 6.5s in the front, infinity 10inch sub, and i think 4 inch in the back. the tweeters i've yet to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, i did something kinda silly and i duno if it's safe yet, but i'm not drawing TO much power so i assume it'll be ok... ever notice how there's a 00 guage wire that carries power to the fuse block in back?

Under that red rubber cap in the rear fuse block are two nuts. i used one of those thus it's nice and neat. Went right through the grommet next to the ECU

It would be VERY unconventional to run power from the battery to the trunk, not to mention unsafe to a degree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well really it isn't - but i run uhm... a little over 3000watts in amp so i would be using 4 guage wire.
Unsafe part COULD be, if on any metal edges - the wire gets cut, thus grounding itself.
Other than that, you're all good.
 

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You need to run them to the battery. You can always get some plastic conduit to run the power cable in and mount it under the car or up int the tunnel if you have room. If you are pusshing 3000 watts, you are drawing too much power. Get bigger wire and run it to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Two things.
First, is i say i'm running a little over 3000, because the infinity is (i think) 684 watts.. and the fosqate is 2400. That is in fact, not nearly the TRUE power rating. The true power rating will be the RMS, which given what i am ACTUALLY USING, is still under 1000.

Second, 4 guage supports up to either 1100 or 1200 watts, can't remember which... so, given the RMS max capability, then the RMS of what i'm ACTUALLY using, 4 guage is more than sufficient.

That... and i've had this set up but running the ~4000watt range - this was peak rating not RMS (2x 4g wires instead of one) in my cavalier before i bought the 2... never gave me a problem. It's always better to have a larger amp than you need so you can have the clarity of having it turned down.. plus it then doesn't get (to) hot and overheat.

*edit* I found a useful site with a chart as to what kind of wire to use at what length for what watts... peak power vs rms... etc
http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/education/main.htm
 

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Yes, it is true that 4 gauge wire will support up to 1400 watts of RMS power, but is small lengths. This page gives details on how power ratings correspond to wire length/gauge. If you are running close to 1000 watts RMS you are probably on the edge of what 4 gauge can deliver since it can only deliver 1000 watts RMS over a 8ft run. A simple test to see if you are overloading your wire would be to run your system for a while and touch the insulation on the power cord (near the battery and near the amp). If it's hot, you need to kick it up a notch, if it's cool, you're probably alright...

Not trying to bust your chops, I'm just trying to be helpful :)

Lane

edit.. Sorry, I just realized the link you posted already had length data too :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Right right, if you're pushin 3000watts rms you're pushing some serious bass lmao, and halfspec, well, you saw the fact i know about the length tables and all, that 4 guage is only ran about 3 feet (if that) from a pre-existing (guess) 0/00 guage.

I tested it to see if it cut out at peak volume (40) when i never really go past 32-33... and it was still good with the car not running. So yeah, the wiring is sufficient i figure ;)
 

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i have built a system drawing over 350 amps of current and wire size and proper electrical upgrades are a must. you seem to be aware of that and i respect you for not being one of those "awww, just lemme git my nail clippers and duct tape i'll fix'er fer shurr" types. lol i would guess everything is running right from what you described.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lol thanks, i'm VERY wary about electrical components blowing up.

I did neglect to mention, but i have an "upgraded" (it's just better than average) battery and alternator. Not because of the amps, but because i had a bad alternator that killed off two batteries. (busted diode)

It's worthwhile to do this, especially if you use BIG amps. i tested my t-tops fitment in the trunk (no behind seat space) with 'em in there, and as long as you have a cloth to put between the amp and the t-top you'll be fine.
 

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That Fosgate amp is a big ass amp. If you want to know what kind of juice is involved. listen to this. In the early '90s I was helping a friend hook a then new Punch 150. Bridged it put out about 360 watts. It put out enough juice to the speakers that when I shorted the speakers wires they shocked me hard enough that it hurt like a bitch and left black burn marks on my finger tips. Use big wire. especially if you run it to the front of the car, which you should be. Do let that much juice run through your old ass wiring harness. Run straight from battery to amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I know good and well about car juice. At this point i can almost hold onto the battery's positive and negative without it doin much more than creating an extreme tingly sensation :D But yeah... i wanna sell the fosqate and get an infinity mono block when i can. the fosqate is from like... 2003 i think.
 
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