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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I like many others didn't have A/C working in their 2GR and after reading through a ton of stuff on the problems a difficulties of doing it finally found the answer (in several places) and I wanted to put it all out here in one post for easy reference for others. I give credit where credit is due to those that did all the hard work.

Let me start by saying that the previous owner removed ALMOST EVERYTHING of the A/C system from the car. :crying: So needless to say I had to source it all. Everything below in green I had, to include the evaporator and electrical bits under the dash. The red stuff I had to find and buy.



Once everything arrived I began to install it all.

I decided to replace the evaporator as well so while I was at it I decided to try to make a cabin filter. The foam in the blower housing literally turns to dust after all these years and I was also tired of my dash being covered in dust everyday even after wiping it all the time. I'm sure some of you have noticed foam dust in your floor, on the dash or been hit in the face by a piece at some point.

The blower fan cover was covered in rust so I sandblasted it and repainted it.



Then I cleaned all the crappy foam off the louvers.



I simply ran them under my wire wheel on my bench grinder to get the rest of the old adhesive off.

Before


After


Then I needed to add foam back so they would seal so I went to Lowes and bought this. I got it in 3/8 but the next width up would have worked better for the housing opening.



Then I simply put it around the edges on both sides of the louvers.



 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Next thing I did was to create the filter portion. Also picked these up at Lowes.





I then simply cut out a piece of the metal to fit just on the inside of the opening leaving only "tabs" to overlap the edges. I used a utility knife to trim the lip down so it would sit flush. I then cover the edge with the same foam strip I used before.





Lastly, I cut a piece of the filter and used a very light coat of spray glue on the EDGES ONLY to give it some tack. This way it would stay in place when reinstalling the blower housing.



I wont use outside air too often so I figured that this filter will last me a while. The housing is quite simple to remove so replacing the filter in the future wont be a big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So now on to the A/C.

For those of you with a full system already then it's simple. I recommend replacing the receiver/drier and expansion valve. Ditch the idea that you need the 2GR compressor. There is too much trouble with the 2GR compressor as far as I'm concerned. All you need to do is get a 1GRFE compressor from a 05-06 Tundra and a belt. As merryfrankster demonstrated in another thread the idle issue is of no concern with the 2GR.

I've been meaning to add an update here.

First I blew up two 2GR compressors in a matter of days if not hours. Then I got hold of a 1GR compressor.

I have been running it for several months now (from about the time of my previous post here) and had no problem whatsoever, even with hitting my 8000 RPM limit MANY times. [Added: If this is an indication I use the a/c every time I drive the car or nearly daily and make it a policy to hit the rev limit at least once per day].

A/C idle-up is NOT an issue on these engines. If you do encounter any issues with that then it is indicative of some other systemic problem or partially seized compressor maybe but with a healthy normal engine and healthy compressor a/c idle up is not an issue. Here's my warmup and idle video that demonstrates it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_wZLuDPKwg

I'll add some more notes on my a/c lines later.
As seen in the picture here:
http://www.mr2oc.com/228-v6-sticky-faq-forum/332390-2grfe-how-get-275rwhp-stock-toyota-reliability-no-body-modifications.html



"The suggested belt is 61.5" 7-rib v-belt. For example, Goodyear 615L7, Gates K070615, etc." Thanks merryfrankster!

The only problem I ran into was the expansion valve I ordered was slightly wider than the stock valve. It just makes it harder to close up the housing. Not too big of a deal.





The lines are a concern of many too. Order these:

1994-99 Celica 2.2 Discharge line (4 Seasons 55414)
Yaris Suction line (4 Seasons 55189)

Thanks Dr.Pete for those numbers!!

I went to a truck repair shop and he had the fittings that fit the stock MR2 lines. He let me take them home and measure up how long the hoses needed to be then I took them back and he crimped them on for me charging me only $13. I'm sure most places would provide similar treatment especially if you purchased the fitting first. Of course without a crimping tool they are just paper weights. All one can do is ask and all they can say is no right?

I came up with the lengths by installing the fittings on the car first. I cut the new lines directly behind the unusable fittings and then installed the lines on the compressor. I then slid the hose into the un-crimped fittings as far as they would go. I then then started trimming the hoses shorter by SMALL amounts with a test fit in between each cut until I was satisfied they weren't too long.



The measurements in the picture are close approximates as I measured them on the car after they were installed with a fabric ruler. I didn't think to measure them before. I used what the guy had for fittings so everyone needs to keep in mind that it'd behoove you to try to measure your own application before getting them made to prevent any headaches.

I would have liked to have 45* fittings but all he had were straight. If you do get 45* fittings then you'll have to clock them before crimping them to ensure they line up nicely without twisting/kinking the hose. The plus side to using straight fittings is that there is no need to clock them at all. Simply crimp them on and they're ready to connect.

I bent the high side line VERY slightly to keep it from contacting the coolant hose after I installed it.







Then all thats left to do is hook everything up, pull a vacuum and recharge.

I took some advice from the Midship Runabout site and used Ester oil for the 1GR compressor. By the way you'll need 7.75 oz for it.

https://midshiprunabout.org/mk1/ac-conversion/

I also ordered the refrigerant he speaks of. It has since changed names but still the same product. The hazmat fee and shipping suck but I found a buddy interested in some and we split the cost and ordered a case. Here's the link to it:

Industrial R134a Replacement Refrigerant 6 ounce Can Equivalent 16 oz 134a Details and Online Ordering at Enviro-Safe, Inc

This thing is blowing ICE COLD air!!! It is the first time in about 15 years this thing has had A/C and I cannot be happier with the way it turned out. As soon as I get a thermometer I"ll post the temp I'm getting at the vents.

I hope this is helpful!
 

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Can you post the lengths you came up with for trimming the black rubber hoses including the crimped ends?
It would be helpful to have the lines made up before installing the engine.

Thanks for the write up!
And it's important to use Esther oil and not the PAG oil, which is not compatible with the old oil in the R12 system. By using Esther oil, there is no need to flush your old system.

Hose end fitting part numbers:
RB-1302 = #8 hose x #8 Female O-Ring Reduced Barrier Hose Fitting (Straight)
RB-1312 = #8 Hose X #8 Female O-Ring Reduced Barrier Hose Fitting (45 degree)
RB-1307 = #12 Hose x #10 Female O-Ring Reduced Barrier Hose Fitting (Straight)

The 45 degree high side fitting works a little better, but the hose will need to be a little shorter.
I got them from Auto A/C Fittings
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Can you post the lengths you came up with for trimming the black rubber hoses including the crimped ends?
It would be helpful to have the lines made up before installing the engine.

Thanks for the write up!
And it's important to use Esther oil and not the PAG oil, which is not compatible with the old oil in the R12 system. By using Esther oil, there is no need to flush your old system.
Yes, I will get under there later and measure them.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can you post the lengths you came up with for trimming the black rubber hoses including the crimped ends?
It would be helpful to have the lines made up before installing the engine.

Thanks for the write up!
And it's important to use Esther oil and not the PAG oil, which is not compatible with the old oil in the R12 system. By using Esther oil, there is no need to flush your old system.
There you go Sir. I just added the info to the original post so it's all in one place. I also added a few pics of them installed. I hope that helps.
 

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Most people would cut the hard line fittings from their old MR2 lines (as I did) and crimp the new hoses onto them - which is a shame because it destroys a perfectly good set of lines that could be put to use in another MR2. In your case, the a/c system was deleted previously so you had to find new fittings. Those new fittings are a pretty good find. It would be great if you could come up with part numbers for those. Nice job on restoring your a/c.
 

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Also, is there a bracket required for mounting the compressor or it should bolt right to the block?

Toyota diagrams show some 2grs have a bracket and some do not. My highlander motor did not come with one but the junk yard may have pulled it along with the compressor.

Or does anyone by chance have a link for proper fittings to just cap the a/c lines at the firewall?
 

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Also, is there a bracket required for mounting the compressor or it should bolt right to the block?

Toyota diagrams show some 2grs have a bracket and some do not. My highlander motor did not come with one but the junk yard may have pulled it along with the compressor.

Or does anyone by chance have a link for proper fittings to just cap the a/c lines at the firewall?
My compressor bracket is the belt tensioner assembly. 2008 Sienna 2GR.
 

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Wiring Question (all the mechanical engineers run to the hills..)
So this is the compressor I ordered for a 2007 Sienna :
(QUESTION should I just use ONLY the two wires going to the clutch?, what's the other pigtail for ?)
MY 2GR AirCompressor.jpg
 

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Mechanical engineer here ain't skeerd of a little wiring! Pretty sure the other wires are for a sensor of some sort built into the compressor (or at least they are on the 1GR compressor). But on the Sienna and other 2GR applications, they may also be for a modulation valve or something? I know I have read of others having issues running the 2GR compressor without the associated 2GR A/C control system, which is why a lot of people are using the 1GR compressor instead.

Also, what kind of pulley is that? It doesn't appear to have any grooves in it.
 

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Besides the a/c clutch, the 2GR ECU also controls the pressure relief valve or whatever it's called. This thing is a royal pain in the rear. It needs to get 12v in order for the pump to make pressure, otherwise it just vents it out, so you need to wire it up like that. The other option, which I believe Marc used originally, is you remove this valve, modify it somehow, and put it back, so it does not need ECU input to switch on. Probably you can find the thread where he did this if you search. Personally I had the wonderful experience of blowing up two 2GR compressors within minutes of installation so I would never use a 2gR compressor again. My 1GR compressor has been on the car for two years and revs to 8000rpm all the time without any problem.
 

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do you guys know if all 1gr compressors are the same? I see that someone stated that its from a tundra but would the compressor from the 1gr tacoma work also?
 
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