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Saw this in the Subaru forums so of course it got me thinking.

http://www.rally.subaru.com/rally/servlet/CarBuildingDetail?part=1&imageId=0

Might do it in a few years when I start working on the car again since I've been halfway thinking of stripping it down to the shell when I paint/clean up the body. I'm sure a good seam welding job would greatly stiffen up the old chassis without the need of a cage.
 

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yes it will. But... there is always a but...

Toyota used gobs of seam sealer. So you will have to get that crap out of there. setting it on fire can remove it. But takes forever and can kill you. really. Toyota seam welded the AE86 for rally use. I saw this happening at TRD in Gardena in 1986. This was they were shipped the car from Toyota without seam sealer.
In order to get a good clean strong weld it will need to be as clean as you can get it.
And that is really hard to do.
Personally I won't do it as the car is plenty stiff with a roll cage in. You can introduce big rust if not done right
 

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In some of the photos of seam welding the inside of the shell, it looks like some white residue coming off the welds, I wonder if that is zinc (galvanize)
I like welding, but I think twice about welding around zinc.
 

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yeah.. zinc is on galvanized metal. I did some welding on some galvanized metal as I had no idea it was a no-no . It was interesting.. make a lot of white powedery stuff.. and aparantly a lot of POISON GAS.

On topic: Seam welding.. I tried this on an 86 back in '00 or '01 quite unsuccessfully. I used a propane torch to try and burn out all of the seam sealer.. the problem is that the two layers of metal overlap by an inch or more, and the seam selaer is all the way through these two layers. It took me over an hour to very poorly weld 4 or so inches. The seam sealer residue and all escapes from within the seam and contaminates the weld making it splatter a lot and in general just suck. I bet there might be some chemical method to get it out, but it would be a project beyond my resources to ever attempt again.. Stupid seam sealer...
 

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I've welded a lot of galvanized stuff. Just stay out of the smoke and only weld in a well ventilated area. Unless you have a respirator. Cars don't have a lot of zinc coating so its not a big deal.
 

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Jared said:
yeah.. zinc is on galvanized metal. I did some welding on some galvanized metal as I had no idea it was a no-no . It was interesting.. make a lot of white powedery stuff.. and aparantly a lot of POISON GAS.

On topic: Seam welding.. I tried this on an 86 back in '00 or '01 quite unsuccessfully. I used a propane torch to try and burn out all of the seam sealer.. the problem is that the two layers of metal overlap by an inch or more, and the seam selaer is all the way through these two layers. It took me over an hour to very poorly weld 4 or so inches. The seam sealer residue and all escapes from within the seam and contaminates the weld making it splatter a lot and in general just suck. I bet there might be some chemical method to get it out, but it would be a project beyond my resources to ever attempt again.. Stupid seam sealer...
I remember that. You did a good writeup on that
 

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some of us have been here a long ass tiem it seems... I know it has been 7-8 years for me.. ( including the previous 2-3 boards even back to www.mr2.com) and It is hilarious that I am a relative newb! It is awesome our cars are 20 years old now!
 

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yup...

mr2pages.com
mr2faq.com
mr2oc.com

And many xxx.xx.xxx type temporary boards in between. :)
 

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when you go at the floor, the undercoating catches on fire.. considering the heat, you pretty much have to strip the whole undercoating off.

they make seam-sealer removing tools.. its a scary looking wheel thing with knotty wires and crap.. you can pick one up for under 100 bucks, would definately save you tons of time. avoid burning chemical coatings off your car at all costs, its not worth the health risks.
 

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I've had success with removing seam sealer with an oxy and a wire brush in the past. Point the oxy flame into the seam and scrub with the wire brush while it's still hot. It takes a couple of runs, but works OK.

A respirator is a good idea.
 
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