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um you do realize your supposed to rev the engine hard until the smoke goes away right?that white smoke is the crap being burned off.
 

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I'm definatly going to have to do this befor bringing up the boost to 14PSI
 

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Did it on all my cars...... and let me tell ya...... the $hi7 works!!! HOLY SMOKES!


If you want a bigger smoke efx... let it sit for a hour and see. :smile:
 

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just to thow it out there i went to UTI, in our fuel system classes we could buy and use a product that was sold at a discounted price called Run-Rite the 3-step fuel system cleaner package. this came with 3 different bottles "SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED" for: a full pour into the gas tank, one to spray on the throttle butterfly that really left a polished look, and one that went on any vacuum line (as long as its connected to the intake manifold, theres vacuum unless theres' a tee) and this we used in conjuction with a upside-down bottle that had a sort of I.V. drip at the end. a couple of my professors told me that this product is usually included when people come in for "tune ups" anyways the point of the post is that the drip is supposed to slowly work on the build-up inside while having the engine at a steady rev right above a stall at smooth idle. this takes about 45 mintues to an hour and, it only smokes right at the end on all the cars we tried it on, so it made me think that the bottle it optimumly sized. this product also looks very professional whereas the seafoam comes in a can (ugly can at that). not one of my teachers recommended seafoam becuase most knew about this product or just heard bad things. not much evidence to back it up based on looks and where you can buy it (carcraft,autozone,napa). all of teachers were old school musclecar guys so i assume theres' truth to what they say, and as far as it going into the oil i would never wanna water down my oil for minutes, miles or whatever especially with a harsh cleaner. if anything run it through the oil system without spark and i would think its' more benificial drop the oil pan, and hot tank it (mani's and valve cover while youre' at it)or clean it, run synthetic, and slap on magnet for metal bits
 

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That process you are referring to is used at almost all shops. I prefer Granitize products as opposed to Run-Rite, but Granitize is more expensive. Seafoam works I have used it many times. With Granitize you first clean the TB plate using a spray then you use a big aluminum cylinder with a hose that comes off the bottom, you then remove the Fuel Feed line from the fuel rail and hook the hose from the aluminum cylinder full of granitize into the fuel rail using the adapter in the kit, unplug or disable the fuel pump & pinch off the return line supply shop air to the top of the aluminum cylinder & start the engine. This cleans the injector & valve, and also the pistons all at the same time holding the RPM to about 2000 until the engine dies. Then you remove the whole setup. Use another can of granitize with the vacuum line submerged, smokes like crazy again. Then you pour their fuel system treatment in the gas tank. That is the best way to do it but it costs like $100 for just the products. The kit is another $100 (aluminum cylinder and fittings) THat's why only shops carry it, but it is the best way alot of shops charge about $199 to do it. When I worked at Toyowest in Peoria, AZ I performed these almost daily.
 

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Anyone have an image of were to put it in in a MK1 NA? I just went through all the posts from thread 1.
 

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I have been using this product forever in my other cars. I have a 91 NA. I bought 2 cans. I put in a full can in the gas tank then filled up with premium gas. The next day I disconnected the vacuum line on the top right corner of the intake manifold. I poured half in the crankcase, and put the rest into a cup. I had the cup tilted so it wouldnt suck it all at once and had a friend rev my car to 3k rpms. I did not stall the car, but turned it off for about 15 minutes. I then went on a very "spirited" drive for the next 20 minutes. I then shut my car off and changed the oil about an hour later. After that I left my battery disconnected for awhile to reset my ecu. My cars idles a little lower, and I was able to pass emissions. I did discover that my car has an exhaust leak though.
 

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Smoothinto2nd said:
Anyone have an image of were to put it in in a MK1 NA? I just went through all the posts from thread 1.
Just find a hose from the intake manifold that has vacuum during idle and when you rev, and pour it in there. It's better to find one nearest the throttle body, so the Seafoam will get a more even distribution. Using longer hoses make it easier, since you can just stick them in the can instead of pouring. You can also use the PCV/crankcase vent hose where it enters the intake system if necessary.
 

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aaron7 said:
Maybe the chemicals in SeaFoam aren't gasket/seal friendly, but it's not like you have it in the motor that long. The stuff you dump in the motor is gone in like 20 min of driving, and you are supposed to change your oil after you put it in there (as it breaks it down I guess)
try soaking a use or new seal in seafoam for 20minutes and see what happens to the seal, I don't like using that stuff in the crankcase unless i am about the sent the engine to a junk yard.
 

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Can someone help identify the vacuum line to use from the throttle body on the 4AGZE. Instructions for the 4AGE seem good, 4 pipes use the N-port, which is the one offset from the others. The BGB FI-98 doesn't clearly identify that port for the 4AGZE though.

Here's what I see -- I suspect it's A...


I've read pretty much every Seafoam thread on the forum, including all 5 parts of this one. However, all the picture links are broken, and I've been unable to find one which clearly identifies the right port.

I need to know which port, and which end of the tube to disconnect and spray Seafoam into. Hopefully one of A-D on the image. Anyone help?

PS: Holy necro-thread... ;)
 

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Unfortunately I have even less idea about that than I do about the throttle body. At least I know roughly where the TB is ;)
 

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Anyone able to help identify the appropriate vacuum port? I tried testing to see if either A or B had vacuum, but if they do it's barely noticeable. Here's an alternate question... is damage likely if I pull any other hoses A-E and squirt some SF?
 

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I ended up using point F. I loosened the metal clip, and pushed the thin seafoam tube into the gap. Make sure you get the tube far enough in there.
 
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