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hehehe.... this is bill

I have wanted to do this for a long time, but just never got around to it. It is actually quite simple. I combined an AE101 and an AW11 strut tower bar. It attaches to the strut towers and then the firewall as well. I'll have images up later tonight as I am now at the shop. Just finished getting the front end ready for the 27"X19" aluminum radiator that should be here tuesday. I have basically converted (or started to convert) the front end into a tube frame... or close to it.

I have discovered how to run the 1.5" aluminum coolant pipes. Looks like I will have to cut out the center frame section (the part where the 4age front engine mount is attached to). This will allow a straight though with only a 90 degree up to the engine. If I keep the section in place then I have to make a ton of bends... not good for flow. The sub-frame that the engine fits into will work just fine at supporting this section. I'll add a few more frame connections next week.

NMore later on www.v8mr2.com when I get home later tonight

Bill
 

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I did that on my prizm... I used the strut brace off the prizm GSi that goes from strut tower to firewall to strut tower and welded a 1" box tube between the towers.. worked real well

Brando
 

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This is naked and unpainted. I still need to work on the welds a bit. The AE101 bar was thin as paper and kept blowing though... once cleaned up and painted you will never know. this is before I welded the firewall bolts in place.

 

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Here is the radiator location. The rad is 19" tall which limits placement. By placing it like this (the box is 2.5" thicka nd 19" tall... but not 26" wide like the rad) I can vent the radiator out the wheel wells between the lowercontrol arm mount and the strut rod chassis mount. This will be better as the low pressure area is stronger. Flowing the air over the hood looks cool, but really screws up flow in that area. I'll make some diverters to flow the air out that way. That will also give me a small front trunk that will accept a small bag and leave room for the battery


 

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Yeah - and you could build a box in there and cook a chicken while you drive. ;)
 

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ever tried to bleed a radiator at that angle?? :)

I tried leaning it forward, but then I would not be able to use the upper bumper support. That is needed to keep the bumper from flying off at speeds exceeding 150mph. Then I would have to use hood pins as the lock assembly cant be used.
 

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Looks pretty similar to the factory strut brace :)
 

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Yeah but I'm tired

I dont know what I'm saying anymore
 

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Well, it did start snowing again.. haha
 

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donalson said:
why not get it further back... er lay it down more?
Bill listed bleeding but I think the bigger factor is the fact that the more the radiator is angled away from perpendicular to the airflow the less air will in fact flow through it. This has been proven again and again by guys installing water cooled engines in aircraft and they're moving a lot faster than we are. There isn't much pressure buildup in front of the radiator at normal cruise speed and therefore not much energy available to convince all the air molecules to ignore inertia and make a hard cut through the fins. It can be done but only if a really well built (read airtight) divergent duct was built between the grill and radiator, otherwise the air will just go right around it.

And back to the subject of strut bars, here's some really good info Strut Bar Theory.
 
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