REV 3 3SGE SW20 - Running super rich but runs great

Hi,

I don't really know how else to describe this, below is a massive long ramble about my car, if anybody has any ideas where to go from here to get the fueling better it would be highly appreciated, I cant really say "to get it to run better" because as far as I am concerned, it runs fantastic.. just the ye olde emissions test ruining my life so car will never be road legal.

I have a 1994 MR2 SW20 Jap import with the N/A 3SGE engine.

It starts and runs great, loads of power and never any misfires or anything.

It is certainly running rich, its had a new exhaust from the manifold back (so the pipe from manifold with the flexi piece)
New catalytic converter
New back box

Cant feel or see any leaks from the exhaust system.

I replaced the o2 sensor awhile ago, about 2 years ago, proper denso one, I have a second one I could install though.

Pretty much completely stock, I just installed a silicone hose kit and replaced pretty much all the vacuum lines I could see.

No leaks on the intake I can find, about 2-3 years ago I rebuild the intake throttle valve thing along with the cold start valve, so im pretty sure nothing is stuck open or closed in that aspect. Its only done about 1000km in the past 3-4 years ive owned it since ive never been able to get it to pass an emissions test...

Coolant is ok - im working on getting rid of all the leaks, just got a brand new radiator and full silicone hose kit. Car gets up to temperature kinda - it gets like 1/3 the way up the gauge but when you go WOT while on a run - the temp drops - I replaced the thermostat with a Gates one which I believed would be a good brand but ive just ordered a genuine thermostat from Toyota so will install that when it arrives. Regardless of the coolant temp dropping, it does get up to some kind of temp that the car is happy with as I can hear the fans turning on and off by themselves.

Car had A/C from new, no longer has any of the system left as it was removed by a previous owner. I have deleted the VSV for the ac system from the engine bay. I have bridged the A/C pressure switch so the cooling fans dont run full blast - this only works if the blower fans are turned off in the car - so if the blower fans are off, the rad fans will cycle on and off in their low speed mode. When the blower fan is on, the car just runs the rad fans at full speed...

Its got clean oil, air filter, plugs (good NGK iridium ones that I did gap before I put them in), didn't bother to replace the wires as they all checked out fine, distributor cap and rotor replaced.

Don't think it has any problems with the injectors as the car never billows out black smoke or anything, come to think of it, it has actually never had any smoke of any kind come out of the exhaust apart from slightly smelly exhaust gas.

Don't think it has any problems with the head gasket as there is no oil contamination or white smoke from exhaust to indicate burning coolant.

I measured the VF1 and E1 ports on the diagnostic with the car running at its own decided "operating temperature", comes up as 0.03v so car is pulling back fueling significantly (if im doing this test right)

Dont really know how to go about checking the timing, as far as I know you need a timing light and you just look at the timing belt with the car in some kind of diagnostic mode.

I feel like I can hear a vacuum leak when its running but I cant find one no matter how much WD40 I spray around the engine bay, I think if it was a vacuum leak it would be a lean condition though?