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MR2-less
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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the situation.

I'm installing a 3SGTE with 111K miles from a wrecked '91T into an '88 MKI.

I just got a brand new OEM gasket/seal kit (thanks to www.toyotacountry.com !) that includes all gaskets, seals, O-rings, crush washers, you name it, PLUS headgasket.
The engine ran perfect before the car was wrecked, even and good compression in all cylinders.
Of course, while the engine is out I will be refreshing it with all the new gaskets and seals from the kit.

So should I crack the head open and replace the headgasket since I have one in the gasket kit and the engine is out of the car?? Or should I leave well enough alone?
If I did remove the head I could make use of the valve stem seals as well and replace them plus clean up the head a little and a possible 3-angle valve job.

???
 

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I call that the snowball effect :)
Then youll want to upgrade the springs and convert ot shimless buckets "well since its out :) "
I would replace the headgasket to just complete the "refresher" as i did as well.
 

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It's a tough call...the stock head gasket on the mr2 rocks, but then again, the time to replace it is now, while you have the engine out. I guess if you have the cash for the head machining, I'd do it now, but it's not completely necessary.
 

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If you replace the head gasket don't forget to get new head bolts or studs. The stock ones are torque to yield which means they stretch and should not be used more then once. They made them this way so they wouldn't have to retorque them after the engine warms up and everything settles in. At least that's what a machinist friend told me. You can tell if they are if they require a torque and then like 90 degrees past that torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Weasy2k said:
I call that the snowball effect :)
Then youll want to upgrade the springs and convert ot shimless buckets "well since its out :) "
The snowball effect is what I'm afraid of. :)
It took me 6 months to replace the headgasket on my '88 NA because of this.

I'm leaning towards leaving the HG in. I'm looking at another head to rebuild while this one is in the car.
 

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Mrturrari said:
If you replace the head gasket don't forget to get new head bolts or studs. The stock ones are torque to yield which means they stretch and should not be used more then once. They made them this way so they wouldn't have to retorque them after the engine warms up and everything settles in. At least that's what a machinist friend told me. You can tell if they are if they require a torque and then like 90 degrees past that torque.

agreed. goint point!!
 

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MR2-less
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Discussion Starter #8
Mrturrari said:
If you replace the head gasket don't forget to get new head bolts or studs. The stock ones are torque to yield which means they stretch and should not be used more then once. They made them this way so they wouldn't have to retorque them after the engine warms up and everything settles in. At least that's what a machinist friend told me. You can tell if they are if they require a torque and then like 90 degrees past that torque.
Of course, that goes without saying, including timing belt, tensioner and water pump.
 

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I would NEVER replace a perfectly good head gasket. If you disturb the existing seal, you are simply asking for problems.

bill
 

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billwot said:
I would NEVER replace a perfectly good head gasket. If you disturb the existing seal, you are simply asking for problems.

bill
AGREED! that headgasket is SEALED on there now!
 

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Not to change your mind now that it's made up, but there was a long thread on the old board about people with 91s that blew headgaskets right around 130-140k miles, many (myself included) running stock boost. That having been said, I'm of the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school, so I would just leave it.
 

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just hit 190k the other day. running 15 psi daily, and up to 18 if i want some more juice. the motor is unopened as far as i know (meaning the head gasket has never been changed.)
 
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