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anyone give me a clue how to get the horrible swirl marks out of my paint...its black. It's especially bad when the car is clean
 

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clay bar removes surface impurities.. it doesnt help with swirls

When the swirls come around it's time to break out the buffer and get bottles of rubbing and polish compounds, then some glaze..
 

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rubbing compound left swirl marks for me. a clay bar removed them. my friend did a clay bar on my spoiler, and there's no swirls anymore. yesterday i did rubbing compound on my hood, and there are swirls like crazy.
 

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Ramicio, I have never seen a clay bar remove swirls from a black car. The clay bar is only used to remove impurities like redblues said. It will remove, Fallout, tar, rust deposits, hard dirt stains and anything ON TOP of the clear that isnt related to scratches. There are different grades of clay bars, Usually they are colored. Blue clay bars from CLAY MAGIC, are fine grade, they work good on black and dark color cars such as red, green blue and the like. The red clay bar is alot more course and SHOULD only be used on light color cars such as white, tan, silver, and the like. Useing the wrong clay bar WILL LEAVE SWIRLS so becareful. Ones again its only used to remove impurities, and give the clear coat that smoooooth finish, after that apply some good wax and a sealer and bamm SILKY SMOOTH just like a babys A$$ lol. So yeah to get out swirls you may need to use a buffer, depending on How deep the scratches are. RULE OF THUMB, If you can feel it with you finger nail then the scratch won't come out, it will only be minimized, and furthermore attempts to fully remove it often results in burned paint. So once again a buffer or some good scratch removing wax. Flash wax is a good sealer and that is all it is so don't expect to get scratches out with that I recommend it however as a sealer. Um other then that, just remember course compounds, waxes and bars can and will leave FINE scratches. Well hope this helps to anwser your questions.
 

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Meguiars #9 Swirl Remover and a foam polishing pad. Slow speed on the buffer 1000-1300 rpms. Keep the pad as flat a possible and if you can mask off glass and trim spray some water on the area first. Take it slow (but keep the buffer moving all the time). Use a microfiber towel to remove. Then Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze at 1000 rpm with a clean foam polishing pad and slow again. Follow with wax.
 

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A claybar will do wonders (as said above) and I highly recommend them.

As for removing swirls from black paint, I would use Mcguires or Mothers swirl removers (Step 2 of 3).

If you want the ultimate shine, use what I do:

ZAINO
 

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fyi, rubbing compound is supposed to leave scratches in your paint, but it is very aggressive. you want to go from less to more aggressive. a good "buffer" to use is one of the porter cable random orbit sanders (i don't recall model numbers off the top of my head), as they are variable speed and in the lower rpm ranges. many of the rotaries or random orbit sanders run upwards or above 10k rpms, which is just way too fast for this application.

a very good resource is www.autopia.org
 

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I work at my local Toyota here in Ft. Myers Florida as a detailer.
If you have access to a buffer, I would use a soft pad with Mothers (any brand i assume) swirl remover.
Hit it right back with a good sealer.
People often confuse me when talking about swirls and buffing.
I automatically think people are talking about the 3-D looking swirls in the sun (thost need to be high-speed buffed).
Also, when people tell me they buffed their car I think of an actual buffer (high speed) <( as GOBLUETWO mentions) when they mean they used an orbital waxer.
 

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Another idea is to use Eagle One's new "Nanowax." I used it on my crimson red '91 and it really did fill in all my swirl marks. It looked brand new.

HOWEVER ... after the first wash, I noticed that swirl marks had returned (tho not to the same degree) and some other irregularities. I suspect that the latter might be due to a buff that may have been performed on the car prior to my purchase of it.

I tried using the Nanowax on my newer 2001 Mazda Protege and was less pleased with the results... but it's possible I needed to use a clay bar on it first to remove some surface contaminants. I guess mmy point is that Nanowax is a great "detailing" wax and, on MkIIs anyway, leaves you with very deep, clean shine free of swirlies. If it's your daily driver and/or you don't keep it garaged, other waxes seem to leave more durable protection.
 
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