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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’m starting a thread just to keep record of everything. My plan is to sell it when i get to a stopping point. Here’s my list so far since I purchased in April ‘21.
-Twosrus poly suspension bushings
-Front sway bar end links
-Steering rack bushing & bellows kit
-inner & outer tie rod ends
-KYB front struts & Eibach springs
-Front strut housing top bearing plates
-Front brake pads, rotors and brake hoses
-Front lower ball joints
-Valve cover sandblast, powder coat & finish with new gaskets
-Original red Sumitomo spark plug wires & NGK plugs
-Fab custom battery tray for IC mount
-Underbody paint w POR-15 chassis black
-Misc bolt replacements with stainless steel
-Driver’s window motor gear and door moisture barrier replacement.
-Fixed power antenna
-Top C-pillar trim
-Clutch pedal bushing and return spring
-Brake & clutch pedal pads
-Engine lid and trunk support shock
-Fuel fill hose
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Before & after, front strut bar bushings. Ordered new hardware, cleaned, sanded and painted strut rods, then cleaned up the threads w M16 die. The old bushings were a mess! Had to heat the nuts with a torch and slowly work them back & forth. Took forever to accomplish all of this! But totally worth it!
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
New 3/4” black spiral wrap and clamps for coolant lines. Also had the cross member sandblasted and powder coated. Doesn’t match the chassis black but who cares I guess…
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well crap…I went to inspect the clutch pedal because it felt sloppy and would sometimes stick down when I let my foot off. The parts diagram shows two things I’m missing…a bushing and the return spring. The bushing is still available but the spring is not. I went to install the bushing and noticed that because it was missing, the clutch master cyl rod clevis pin has slowly created a nasty slot in the pedal :(

so I guess now the correct way to fix this is to replace the entire lever arm.

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Oh my goodness. I suppose it could be welded and redrilled, but probably easier to find a good pedal arm from a donor car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I can’t catch a break! I bought a used clutch pedal assembly that I confirmed had a good pivot hole and bushing. I went to swap it out and the pedals are not the same. My pedal (‘88) has an arm coming off the top of the pedal. This arm has a notch that fits into some type of white bushing assembly. It’s so far up under the dash I can’t tell what it does. Anybody know? See below pic, my existing pedal is the top image.
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Your newly acquired pedal is for an NA. The bracket on top is for the "turn over" spring. It's a helper spring. The MK2s are the same (NAs lack the springs).
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I can’t catch a break! I bought a used clutch pedal assembly that I confirmed had a good pivot hole and bushing. I went to swap it out and the pedals are not the same. My pedal (‘88) has an arm coming off the top of the pedal. This arm has a notch that fits into some type of white bushing assembly. It’s so far up under the dash I can’t tell what it does. Anybody know? See below pic, my existing pedal is the top image.
Your newly acquired pedal is for an NA. The bracket on top is for the "turn over" spring. It's a helper spring. The MK2s are the same (NAs lack the springs).
View attachment 76694
Thanks Jim. Maybe I’ll just convert it over to the NA pedal and add the ext spring, not using the torsion spring.
 

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It may not be that big a deal. Folks continue to use NA clutch pedals in 3sgte swapped cars, but the pedal effort is then higher than stock. I'd think the same will be true here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I put the NA pedal in tonight and it seemed to go in no problem…until I started watching the push throw of the clutch master cyl. I noticed the clevis end was also flexing, pivoting when I added force to the pedal. I don’t think this is correct because the jam nut on the end of the shaft should keep that entire clevis head inline with the pivot. It appears the circular piece between the clevis and jam nut is damaged, probably due to running the old pedal without a bushing where it wore and became a slot. Either way, I pulled the clutch master and found some damaged spots. Shoot me!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here’s what the clevis pin looked like compared to a good one! Even if it’s a plastic bushing…it still makes a difference! I wonder how long it’s been like this?
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Installed new front sway bar end links. I like this brand because it has a hex instead of the Allen key stud. These are slightly larger in diameter than stock bars and they were only $50 pair!
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also painted the intake tube and added new gasket.
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Nice. Looks like you had to cut one of the old ones off.
yeah, PITA!!! Both sides the upper connection came apart fine but the lower connection was rusted tight. I rounded off a metric Allen key and got the speedy cut.
 
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